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wross996TT

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Everything posted by wross996TT

  1. wross996TT
    You should be able to see the IC fins in the rear slats. Also the turbos are K24s. Boosting 1.0 is more than either K16 (.6-.7) or K24 (.8-.9). When you say boosting 1.0 is this sustained (WOT in 3rd or 4th) or is it a spike?
  2. wross996TT
    see my reply on the 6 and the list.
  3. wross996TT
    Same as any car (connection wise). What year is it? If it is Older than 2002 (not sure of when this actually took effect) you will need to use the emergency release cable to open the hood. I believe the cable is accessible behind the wheel well. Get a trickle charger (maintainer) next time.
  4. wross996TT
    Chuck, FVD has just the plastic front spoiler part for $350.
  5. wross996TT
    Dr, I don't have the vin decoder (as Loren does), but TMK there are no OEM gages with Turbo S script on the gauge. As far as your dials, are they black? If not you have optional gages (perhaps white)
  6. wross996TT
    Seriously, how do we know you own the car and don't just want to know how to steal one? Not trying to suggest this IS true, but this is the internet and you just signed up with no intro....
  7. wross996TT
    Why does high octane eat rubber? I called the technical expert at VP fuels and he said their VP100 (which is what I run) has the same oxygenators as pump fuel (e.g., ethanol). He said the European fuel lines are not designed for the ethanol we use in the states...problem I have with this is there should be a much larger problem then. I'm with you...there must be something else in the high octane fuel that contributes to this...
  8. wross996TT
    My fellow RennTechians...I was out yesterday (actually to fill the tank for some extended garage time), filled my tank and on the way home...fuel line ruptured...again. I am now on my 4th fuel pump. So my question/poll to all users of high octane gas (I use VP100)...anybody had any fuel pump issues? Also to those with fuel pump issues...what octane and type of gas are you using? Thanks much brothers!
  9. wross996TT
    I got mine from FVD...CF and leather (I did some customizing)
  10. wross996TT
    That would be RUF.
  11. wross996TT
    Really, and where do you get your information from?
  12. wross996TT
    What you have to maintain is the same diameter front to back. Also it is not the diameter that helps in snow, but the width...the narrower the better. I personally would not run 18 in front and 17 in back.
  13. wross996TT
    Replace the battery...radio code is all you will need.
  14. wross996TT
    Just some clarification...when folks say they saw .9 or 1.0 or whatever is this sustained? I mean is this what you get in third or fourth WOT? If not it is just a spike and not representative of what your car is really boosting. Stock K16s will get you .6-.7 with spikes above that when conditions (e.g., environmental) are favorable. With a flash you can get much higher...the question is when do the K16s run out of power...most agree it is about 1.0-1.1. So even though they might boost >1.1, the power is not there. BTW it is not all about the boost....
  15. wross996TT
    Here is what I would recommend if you have never really detailed your car. Get the Zaino Total Protection Show Car Kit (ZKIT-1) 1. wash car with grease cutting soap (Dawn) 2. Clay car 3. wash with Z-7 4. wipe down with Z-6 5. Z-5Pro w/ZFX (you may use Z-AIO here instead) 6. wipe down with Z-6 7. Z-2Pro w/ZFX (2 coats) 8. Finish with ZX-8 This is a lot of work, buy it pays off in the long run. I washed my car twice this year. Bugs and other stuff just come right off. Lasts for 6 months at least. If you aren't into doing a real detail...wash the car, Z-AIO, Z-2Pro.
  16. wross996TT
    Ask this question at Autopia.org. I don't use wax, but use a sealant. I am a firm believer in Zaino line of products after trying a number of different things from carnubas to sealants. Here are pics I just took using Zaino:
  17. wross996TT
    Oops...I meant slave cylinder...
  18. wross996TT
    What does the clutch feel like with the car off? Could be the accumulator.
  19. wross996TT
    Chuck...I don't recall calling anyone names about this...and I don't think anyone actually knows the answer. There are a number of hypotheses about what may be going on and several of them seem quite rational (or logical as you say)...though that does not make them correct. I also don't know anyone that wants to try to create Type IIs by running some experiments. ARDs explanation seems quite rational...and my guess is we may never actually know the truth. But it doesn't mean we can't suppose. Tool Pants...I believe MignighTT did indicate that he had not requested the rev limit change and Kevin indicated he only changed it upon request...so FWIW.
  20. wross996TT
    Agreed...
  21. wross996TT
    Chuck, I thought the same thing until this thread and posts by Jeff (MidnighTT) 6speed link. He said he lost traction on the way up and logged type II over revs (durametric software). You got a better explanation of what happened?
  22. wross996TT
    Skipp, no worries...I never let internet "discussions" bug me for long...in fact I can't remember what the discussion was about. Cheers.
  23. wross996TT
    There is some debate on the difference between type I and type II. It was thought that typically a missed down shift would cause a type II and hitting the limit on the way up a type I. I think Loren has a reasonable definition for type II, but this could also occur if you hit the rev limiter on the way up so quickly the ECU does not react fast enough...so essentially there may be a type I at a certain rpm and a type II at a higher rpm.
  24. wross996TT
    Uh...did you RTFM? :oops:
  25. wross996TT
    I believe he means this one Stupidest Link
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