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Thklinge

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Everything posted by Thklinge

  1. To conclude this: Porsche Center Tromsø (PCT) eventually came, with the help of the importer, to the conclusion that my cylinders are turning oval and I have cracked the lining on cylinder 6. As the cylinders are created with the Lokasil-process and doesn't have replaceable cylinder liners the block is basically scrap metal. A new-in-crate engine from Porsche was quoted at about 23.000 usd +installation, in total around 27.000 usd. Clearly not an option. There are various companies in Norway, Germany and the UK that specialize in boring out the failed cylinder and installing Nikasil liners. The cost is around 16,500 usd. But the process takes time, and even more so now due to the holidays. It was also a hassle getting the car to the shop as it's in a different part of the country and many freight-options are ruled out as the car can't be driven on and off various means of transport. In the end I bought a salvaged engine from the UK and had it installed here. In fact I just got the car back yesterday. It runs fine but I still have a high idle-problem I have to figure out before everything is back to perfect. The engine cost me about 10k +installation. The plan now is probably to sell it before it breaks down again and getting something else. Perhaps an E46 M3, or a 996 Turbo, though the turbo costs twice as much as the Carrera, and start at about 113.000 usd in Norway... Will I own a 996 Carrera again? Hell no.
  2. Hartech has 72 tightly written pages about cylinder scoring in 996 3,6/997 3,6 & 4,8 and Cyman engines: http://hartech.org/docs/buyers%20guide%20web%20format%20Jan%202012%20part%205.pdf
  3. Thanx, too bad I'll never own one again (as soon as I get this one off my hands) ;)
  4. The first posts, back in 2005 of this thread is really funny to read today. M96 a reliable engine? Seriously? I thought I had enough to worry about with RMS/IMS/AOS. I've dodged all of them for almost two years, then it turned out that my cylinders were oval and I got cracks in the cylinder walls. Then there's cylinder scoring on the newer 3,6 and 3,8 engines, and so on and so forth. A company here that specializes in rebuilds (including boring and installing Nicasil cylinder liners) says it like it is, and adds a final three-syllable abbreviation to the engines: POS. The current record from new to scrap metal is 18.500 miles... My car failed 3700 miles after a Porsche dealership had it in for a major service and said it was in perfect working order. I'll never own a 996 Carrera again. In fact, there was a long period of time when my car was in the shop and the bills kept piling up that I swore I'd never own another Porsche. I'm still kinda weary, it seems Porsche has discovered the magical revenue-maker called "planned obsolescence". I might go BMW, or Porsche turbo, we'll see when I get this car off my hands. Hopefully before the new engine disintegrates on itself... Reliable my ***.
  5. Porsche Center is what I say it is, a Porsche Center, as in certified Porsche dealership. What do they call the dealerships in the US? In Europe, they're called "Porsche Center <city name>". ;)
  6. I'll start with a picture to make it more interesting to keep reading. ;) It's a '98 996 C2 manual with M030 and M220 (LSD), with 98k miles on it. Pic related, it's me under breaking at a track-day the 1st of June. The friday was ok most of the day, passed a GT3, tried to hold a GT2, but lost about a second per (2,3 miles long) lap. Always fun to pass or hold cars that are much faster, just on late breaking and good-ish lines ;) The CEL came on once on friday, but I calmed down my driving, pulled in and read out the codes: Multiple engine misfire (P03000), and three cylinder misfires, but I can't remember which cylinders. Did a quick check around the engine, everything looked ok, cleared the codes, started up, everything was ok, CEL didn't come back. Did a few more laps, still no CEL, the car pulled strong, no problems. Did the 20 minute drive back to the hotel, all was dandy. On saturday I pulled out on the track, did a calm round to get some heat in the tires, but the CEL came up after just a few turns. Calmed down the driving even more, but had unfortunately just passed the pit entry and planned on just driving a very slow lap to get off the track. Got half way down the start/finish stretch when the CEL-lamp blinked then stayed on steady. It felt like it was running on just 4 or 5 cylinders. I shut it down and coasted in a u-turn and drove the wrong way in the pitlane exit. Read out the codes, cylinder misfires was the only ones logged, but I got four cylinders this time so I ruled out problems with just one bank. Cleared the codes and, perhaps stupidly, fired it up again. No codes, no sounds, idle was fine, oil pressure normal, no warning lights, everything was like normal. Puzzled I shut it down and inspected some more. Found some fresh oil where the engine meets the gearbox, not a LOT, but enough to drip some drops to the ground. I figured that if this was IMS I'd hear the death rattle or have blown the engine by now so next on the list was RMS. Figured it couldn't destroy the engine and I didn't feel comfortable telling my insurance company that I needed a flatbed at a track, so I drove down to the main road. Car seemed fine, but lacking in power and shuddering above 3k rpm. Pulled out roadside and went back to have a final look around. If I blipped the throttle (to about 2,5k rpm) I could hear a faint rattle when the car came off the revs. Anways, luckily my insurance covers roadside assistance to the nearest _capable_ garage. We were currently in a small-ish town with the nearest Porsche Center in my home town, 400 miles away. I was convinced that no garage in that town would be dumb enough to start diagnosing a brand of car they'd never had in the shop, but flatbedding that kind of distance wasn't popular with the insurer. After two days of arguing they eventually towed it home. I got a rental the same day as the incedent and drove home. My local Porsche Centre started up not even a year ago and currently have just one Porsche mechanic. He's an experienced mechanic, and have the Porsche training, but naturally doesn't have a lot of experience with these cars yet. In fact, my 996 was the first 911 he did a service on at the new centre. After a quick look around he found what you're probably screaming at the screen right now: The AOS bellows was disintegrated. They replaced the bellows and washed away the oil, ran it on idle and didn't get any more oil. In fact, they said that my 996 was the driest they'd seen so far, with no oil sweat at all. So, RMS/IMS is out of the question. Either way, he heard a screeching noise and shut it down. No faults were registered. By now I had done my research and read up on what was, to me, a new frequent fault: AOS. I figured that if the bellows was that destroyed the AOS-unit was probably toast as well. As they are known to sometimes screech when they're broken, that might explain what he heard. I told the guy in the service desk about that, and that they also had to check for oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. They did, and both liquids were fine. The mechanic though, described the sound more like scratching metal with a screwdriver. I've never heard an AOS unit go bad so I can't say if that's the sound it makes or not. The mechanic said he also felt the clutch pedal felt weird, and he wanted to pull down the gearbox to inspect the flywheel. They haven't swapped the AOS yet. He also went in with a boroscope to check the cylinders and said it didn't look excellent, with some scratches. But as this was the first 996 cylinders he'd seen he couldn't tell if it was normal or not. All six cylinders were the same, which is a good sign. The car wasn't low on oil. Even though I lost some at the track, I was still above the minimum mark. The problem now is that he's not sure what to do. Luckily, he's smarter than to do guesswork and throw parts at the car. They have a system where he can call other more experienced mechanics at other centres, but they are busy people and hard to get on the phone. The cars has been in the shop for more than three weeks now and I'm getting sick of driving around in a Legacy. Any good ideas here as to what might be going on? Are scratches on the cylinder walls normal for a 100k mile engine, and how much is too much? Also, not sure if it's related, but figured I'd put it in here: The steering made some screeching noises when I made my way from the track to the main road to drive back to the hotel on friday. It was just the first 2-3 minutes after starting up and I haven't heard or felt anything different since then. I also felt some juddering in the brakes on-track, but that's probably just warped rotors from track-abuse and heat. Brakes felt normal at normal speeds. Also, I noticed some Pentosin had spilled out of the reservoir up front. As I said, not sure if it's related. Give me your best guesswork, please. The not so pretty sight on saturday:
  7. Two+ years on the K&N, replaced the water-sock once. No problems with it.
  8. The outside temperature sensor does affect performance of the HVAC-system. The cable to mine was partially broken so it often showed erratic temperatures, like -20 celcius. When the car thinks it's twenty below outside it fires up the HVAC like there's no tomorrow to heat the car up as fast as it can. It figures that while it can only blow out +15 degrees from the A/C it's still worth it since its -20 outside. I dismantled the plug and soldered in a new length of wire and the problem went away. Nice to not have a tornado inside whenever the car is cold and the system is on auto.
  9. So, the 996 doesn't have any fender liners in the rear portion of the rear wheel arches. It hasn't really been a problem, except for winter driving. Slush and show is thrown on the hot mufflers and burn off when you stop at intersections. I kinda think it's cool with smoke billowing out from the rear arches, others think the car is on fire... Either way, with a new exhaust system a new potential problem occurred, check the vid: That's after about two weeks of driving. Those mufflers used to be shiny stainless steel. The mufflers themselves can take a bit of dirt but I'm worried about the valves, it looks like that piston might pull a lot of dirt into the vacuum actuator. Does Porsche do any tricks to protect the valves on the PSE exhaust or is there some sort of aftermarket rear-rear fender liner one can buy? Tips appreciated.
  10. That actually helps a lot! Still not sure about the vacuum tank or where to hook up to the engines vacuum lines, anyone got any pointers on that?
  11. Did the outer door seals on mine, as well as the seal around the door mirrors. Fixed the problem.
  12. So, I replaced my GT3 front end after my GF had a bit of an off at a winter driving camp. Got everything back together except for the plug that goes in the center hole on the fender. The GT3 has an opening here for the center radiator. I haven't got a radiator there so I don't need the hole. The old part has this number: The dealer can't find this part and they even emailed Porsche in Germany that said this part-number isn't in their system... Any ideas?
  13. I recently bought the DesignTek Valvetronic exhaust system from Design 911. Unfortunately no installation-instructions were included. I've emailed Design 911 about it, but after 1,5 weeks they haven't made any progress. The only email-address I could find for DesignTek was parts@designtek.eu, but emails bounce. Then again, how hard can it be? :P I've installed the mufflers. They sound great but the default mode is LOUD which isn't always so popular amongst the neighbors. Each muffler has a single vacuum-valve that closes the flap with vacuum present. The kit also included a vacuum reservoir, an electronic valve, a one-way-valve, a box for the idiotic remote control, keyfobs, a length of hose and various fittings, strips and cables. I have the Porsche factory PSE-switch for use with this and hooking up the electronics is easy. The vacuum though, not so much. I found a place to tap into the vacuum-system, on a valve on the back of the intake, left side. Not sure which side of the valve I should hook into though. Then there are the tank, one-way valve and electronic valve. I've tried to apply logic and came up with the following: Vacuum from car || \/ One way valve to prevent the vacuum tank and mufflers to feed vacuum back to the car in low-vacuum situations. || \/ Electronic Valve || \/ Two t-junctions to feed three hoses // // \\ // // \\ Mufflers Tank Electronic valve The valve either allows vacuum to pass through (power applied) or dumps one side of the valve to free air (power not applied). So with power on it allows the car to pull on the valves on the mufflers, and with power off it releases the pressure and the springs in the valve pulls it open. Sound good or did I miss something? I'm at vacuum 101 here..
  14. Or buy the Porsche LED flashlight and stick in the hole instead of the cigarette lighter: Btw, what's the part number for the bulb for the cigarette lighter?
  15. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_D6goLjocvw It's possible! ;) Haven't checked out my suspension parts yet though and couldn't find any pictures of the front and rear sensor locations. If anyone could snap or link to a pic that shows it I'd be happy. :)
  16. Ah, excellent info Gator! Thanx a million! For historical reference: The connector that attaches to the sensors fore and aft is type B06A16, part number: 999.650.551.48. That part is impossible to find though. Not available at DC automotive, PelicanParts, teile.pl, Vertex Auto, Porscheshop.co.uk or design911.co.uk. Any ideas? I got my other sensor today, I'll do a test later.
  17. Try to open the key, hold the PCB (Printed Circuit Board - the green thingy with everything attached to it), with two fingers on each side, then use a finger on the other hand to press the button. What you're doing is slightly bending the PCB which can help with intermittent problems like this. If that works, stuff a few layers of paper in the bottom of the key-housing so that when you put it back together the paper pushes on the battery holder. That worked for me. Also: Order a new key from Porsche.
  18. If the car didn't come with xenon lights from the factory, then you don't have auto-leveling. But thanx!
  19. There are two extra wires when you compare the factory hid to the retrofit one: "DIAGNOSE" and "ESO". They are not hard to route to whichever destination they're suppose to have, although I haven't had the time to look it up yet. If that is necessary and that you have to somehow activate the module that will be a problem for the next day and probably a dealer or a Durametrics job. I do however believe that the Litronic module works fine standalone. If someone with factory xenons wish to help out, disconnect wire 9 and 11 from the Litronic module in the left side of the front compartment, start the car, move the suspension and see if the headlights adjust. Thanx! ;)
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