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RLHornbeck
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Everything posted by RLHornbeck
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Lost Radio Code - post your request here
RLHornbeck replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
CRDR-220 Type 4462 SN X5033240 Thanks -
Thanks Loren
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2013 Cayenne Diesel with air suspension if relevant.
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Does anyone know the torque required for for the rear subframe bolts? Also are these bolts one time use or re-usable? Thanks
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I am in need of removing the back bumper also, stronbl did you ever make the diy? Or does anyone have instructions? Thanks
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Lost Radio Code - post your request here
RLHornbeck replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Loren, thanks it worked. -
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
RLHornbeck replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Looking for the radio code for my 2000 boxster s CDR-220 s/n Y5042338 Thanks -
I would love help with this also. I have replaced the lower arms, upper arms, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, and tie rods. I still have a bad clunk on bumpy roads. The only items left are steering rack, top of the air shocks(bushings?), or axles. Any help would be appreciated. Ryan
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1. Yes mark the alignment bolts (2) that hold the arm to the frame. 2. You will use these to hold the ball joint from turning while you tighten the joint. 3. Not easy but doable, you must remove the entire shock Assembly to get the bolts off 4. No, you can do the entire job on the ground. 5. There is not tension if the wheels are both the same level.
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Forgot to mention this is a 2005 turbo.
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The CEL came on today so i pulled out the Durametric and found 2 codes P2677: O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1 - No Signal/communication, test conditions are not-completes, fault is active and causing a DTC light P0150: O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1 - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-complete, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light Where should i start looking for a problem or is it as simple as an O2 sensor? if so how do i test the sensor to confirm that is the problem. Thanks
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Not really, I found a low mileage used pump that came with the pulley so I did not have to remove mine. It is very straight forward as to what you have to take off, just takes time. Bleeding the air just takes a few full locks of the wheel after you get everything back together.
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The pump will come out without taking out the compressor. I went in from the drivers side wheel well and from the engine bay to get it out. You must remove a great deal of items. It took me about 8 hard hours is a real bear but is doable.
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Looking for this also, anyone have one?
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hahnmgh63 thanks for the brands. What about other items for preventive maintenance while you are in there? Should the sway bar bushings, sway bar links or upper control arms be done?
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What brand control arms are people using? Are you going OEM or other? I am in need of doing this but trying to figure out what arms to go with.
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I have just done this. You need two gaskets per valve cover, one costs $30.00 and the other $13.00 from Sonnen Porsche. A few local shops quoted me around $600.00 for labor for both sides, but i ended up doing the work myself and it took around 6 hours. There is a good tutorial over on Pelican parts if you decide to do it yourself. Hope this helps
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I just lost one of my air pumps, to include most of the plastic wheel exploding. Is there a way to confirm the valves are ok and plastic did not get down into them without disassembling everything?
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It was found by accident. While swapping injectors I broke the vent line that runs across the front of the engine and then behind the intake manifold. In order to fix the vent the manifold needed to be removed, which allowed this to be found. I do not think it would have been found if the vent line did not break.
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Well the problem has been found. I tried the injectors but that was not the problem. The intake manifold gasket had blown out right at cylinder 4. This was a very small break in the gasket which did not give the normal loud pop and bangs but rough idle and low power.
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I have been working on a misfire in cylinder 4 but can not seem tofind the cause. The truck runs rough at idle and seems to have a bitless punch. The DTC light is on and my 05 CTT is showing 2 fault codes. P0300:Random / Multiple cylinder misfire detected – Implausible signal, testconditions are not-completed, fault is active and is causing a DTC light P0304:Cylinder 4 misfire detected – Implausible signal, test conditions arenot-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light I have done a few things but none have fixed or moved the problem to anther cylinder. What I have done: Moved the coil from cylinder 4 to 3: misfire still in cylinder 4 Moved spark plug from cylinder 4 to 3: misfire still in cylinder 4 Alsowith Durametric connected I can only see misfires in cylinder 4 whenlooking at actual values no other cylinders show any misfires. Thismisfire also only shows up when at idle, any application of throttle and the misfire stops until idle is reached again. Any thoughts as to what to check next? I have tried a search for P0300 and P0304 but nothing beyond coils shows up.
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Thanks for the information. Does anyone have a kit they would like to sell me, as I am having no luck finding one.
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I am looking for a kit to rebuild the pump but can not seem to find one. ECS Tuning no longer has them and does not know where to get them. I have found that VW has something but cant find the part number, or if it is the same as what ECS had. Please help
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I have seen multiple repair kits for the air suspension from ECS mentioned here. Looking on ECS's web site if find a few different ones but they are all around $150.00, People here have said they bought one for under 10, can someone help me find that one? Thanks