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xmac

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Everything posted by xmac

  1. xmac
    If it really is just the CV axle grease, here is a link . I think you actually may need to get the full kit that typically comes with grease, rubber boot, clamp (tool needed for proper tensioning), and the clip for the axle shaft. It is fairly involved since you have to loosen the suspension and pull the axle out to replace the boot.
  2. xmac
    Sorry to jump off-topic, but I thought that an advantage with egas is that the PSM system can back off the throttle input electronically?
  3. xmac
    You got your answer that few have heard or much less tried this new bearing. If you are trying to save $300 for something that might work vs. $600 for something that mostly works, go for it. JFP is just trying to tell you that it is not worth the risk (and I agree). Can the Casper Labs bearing work? Probably, but you will have to risk your engine - they even mention that in the ebay ad. It is a simple game of statistics: LNE - thousands out in the field, 3 failures (not sure where the number came from) Casper - ??? out in the field, ??? failures Try it out and report back to us how it goes.
  4. xmac
    Here's video from another driver in the run group. He catches up to me at around 13min 30secs:
  5. xmac
    First time at Laguna in my p-car. It was a fun way to finish out the year. How do you get track time at Laguna? Will they allow a cab without a rollbar? Thanks! They do let convertibles if you pass the broomstick test, where a broomstick straddling the top of the windshield and roll bar cannot be lower than the top of your helmet when in the car. (common sense -right). I have been out to several events with ncracing.org but there is also NASA, SCCA, Golden Gate Lotus Club, Trackmasters....
  6. xmac
    Here's some more footage:
  7. xmac
    First time at Laguna in my p-car. It was a fun way to finish out the year.
  8. xmac
    Loren, what about the mount for a C4 6-speed?
  9. xmac
    Some suggestions if you are adventurous and have some basic mechanical skills below. The problem is likely air leaks downstream of the MAF sensor. Throttle body "tee" pictured below (Porsche calls it the intake distributor Intermediate piece) 1. After removing the air filter assembly and disconnecting the big hose going to the throttle body, remove the throttle body (4 small bolts and an electrical connector) and make sure the o-ring seal behind it didn't get pinched or damaged (~$9 o-ring) 2. Check the plastic line on the left that clips into the tee holding the throttle body and make sure it is seated properly (visible in the picture near the upper left threaded insert - you pinch the ribs then wiggle) 3. Check that all of the hose clamps on the intake runner couplers are tight - 8 of them and hard to reach 4. Also check for a very small ~1/8" plastic tube that gets inserted into the bottom of the couplers. They are is the size of a coffee stirrer and held in place by friction. This is going to be tough to see so you may just have to check by feel. After these checks, report back.
  10. xmac
    996 with Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 tires and Hawk 9012 "blue" pads Best lap 1:54, Max speed 109MPH (best when viewed at 480p) EDIT (Lightened video images for better viewing)
  11. xmac
    Best thing since sliced bread for about $125: http://uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=550000 I vacuumed out my system couple of times and sucked out almost all of the old coolant. Best of all, no air bubbles to have to burp out.
  12. xmac
    I was worried about the exposed terminals on the radio head unit if I left off the yellow and green connectors (pulled out the CD changer in my car), so I decided to order dummy connectors to mate to the blue ipod and keep the pins somewhat isolated. A friend of mine in the UK bought the connectors for me since I had trouble sourcing them online in the US. I took pictures of the part number and packaging in case anyone else needs them. I found that the German website Conrad.com carries them with part numbers below. Blue part# 378650 Green part# 378652 Yellow part# 378648
  13. xmac
    Thanks logray. So is it part#24 "Thrust WASHER" or "Thrust Collar"? 99610112952 Amazing that an $11 part could be so critical. Doesit mean full engine teardown in this case?
  14. xmac
    Can you post some pictures of your coated exhaust?
  15. xmac
    I would like to give a big thanks to Elephant Racing for the generous use of the shop including the lift and to those who made it out. See you at the next one.
  16. xmac
    Anyone else attending?
  17. xmac
    This is the closest DIY with pictures I could find. If you get a chance take some pictures and upload. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/180764-fuel-pump-system-exposed-couple-pictures.html
  18. xmac
    sorry to read the bad news. You should read through this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/29334-cylinder-full-of-antifreeze/
  19. xmac
    No PIWIS/PST2 onsite, but someone might show up with one.
  20. xmac
    I think the leaf blowing is a red herring. Pull out the coilpack and check the resistance between the 2 outer pins (there are three pins on the coilpack) and make sure it is between 3-7 Ohm. I realize you mentioned that you replaced it but you could check to see if something is damaging the coilpack. Not that it is the same symptom but another member found a short in the wiring that was damaging a coilpack. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/26119-blown-ignition-coil/page__fromsearch__1 If the coilpack is OK, it could be bad gas, water in your fuel, coolant leaking into the cylinders (cracked head or head gasket). Are you having to add coolant/water frequently? I would also take out a few more spark plugs to see if they are also wet - both from the same head and the opposite one.
  21. xmac
    Have you tried a second battery? If you replace the battery again and it "works for a bit" but then dies again, would suggest there is a bad circuit in the transmitter draining the battery. Then the only option is a new key which would require dealer programming.
  22. xmac
    I thought about it some more and started wondering if it is a front wheel bearing. A bad bearing can make a "grinding" noise - easy to check. When the front wheels are up in the air, grab the bottom and top of the wheel and see if you feel movement in the wheel. This is a video of a really bad one, but the check procedure is the same: Much more involved, but here is the bearing replacement DIY: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/29-diy-front-wheel-bearing-replacement-996-ttc4gt2/
  23. xmac
    Did you see a line item for a front differential gear oil change in the service history? I had a whine in my 99 C4 that sounded like a rally car gearbox. When I changed the fluid, what came out was almost black unlike what came out of the transmission. After replacing the gear oil, the noise went away. I would start there. It is a 30 minute job, but the fluid is expensive, part# 999 917 546 00. Here's a nice DIY. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/60-front-wheel-drive-oil-change-instructions/
  24. xmac
    Read through this DIY and for the "engine lug" location jump down to post#14. It is a thick chunk of metal towards the rear of the engine that can be used to lift the car. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/3404-putting-your-996986997987-up-on-jackstands/
  25. xmac
    PM or search for the forum member "Jose. " He recently had a compressor failure (he didn't know it at the time) but went through the process of replacing the clutch. In the end he had to replace the whole compressor but may be able to help you with the clutch swap.
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