xmac

Amen brother. I hear you, but you know, Murphy's Law is what prevails: if you park in the garage, something or someone will scratch it if you park outside, a bird will poo on it if you park at the furthest parking spot away from all other cars, someone will park next to you if you park in a wide parking space, the person next to you will park over the line and ding your door

I was having trouble going between the pin tables and the actual pin, so I made these graphics, hope they help someone else down the road:

If you put this on the community calendar and check the box for "Request RSVP" then you can get an idea of how many folks are coming. Once you enter the event on the calendar you can provide a link to it for folks to respond. Thanks for the tip. Calendar event posted and link will be added once approved.

Work on Car Day is posted now - December 10th in Santa Clara, CA http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40101-work-on-your-car-day-december-10th/

Please RSVP in the Community calendar and PM me if you have any questions: http://www.renntech....ara-california/ Alright, if you have been putting off that oil change, want to learn how to work on your car, or cringe at the though of putting a wrench to that fine instrument you drive- fear not. I am organizing a Work on Cars day in Santa Clara. We will have access to a Porsche race shop that will provide us a nice, clean work space. WHEN: Saturday Dec 10th TIME: 9am-? WHERE: Elephant Racing 625 Nuttman Street Santa Clara, CA 95054 PARTS: You can order parts from the site sponsor by emailing them at porscheatcost@sunsetimports.com or your favorite parts supplier Last-Minute Parts: I have arranged Saturday access to a local dealership parts department from 10am-2pm for any forgotten or last minute parts/supplies needed Due to low RSVP count, the parts arrangements have been cancelled. THINGS TO CONSIDER BRINGING: Hand tools Jack/Jack stands PIWIS/PST2/Durametric Portable Chair Lunch (I will bring a grill for those that want to BBQ) Catch pan (for those doing oil/coolant changes) Empty milk jugs for taking used fluids away (don't plan on disposing of them there) creeper or packing blanket (something comfortable while working on your car) ITEMS TO CONSIDER DOING: [Please budget enough time to finish just in case you plan a full engine teardown] Suspension upgrades Bumper removal for radiator cleaning Oil Change Water Pump Motor Mounts Serpentine Belt Air Filter Coolant Reservoir Alternator change Third Radiator install 4th stalk install (On-Board Computer) Replace horns (requires bumper removal) Headlight replacement Smoked/Clear side marker/tailight swap iPod/iPhone cable install on head unit Window regulator replacement GT3 front brake air duct upgrade Antenna TSB for greater remote range Transmission/Differential gear oil change ... LIST OF AVAILABLE TOOLS: Genuine Porsche oil filter tool Radio removal tools Low profile jack Jack stands Basic assortment of metric wrenches/sockets Internal Torx sockets Allen Sockets UView Airlift 55000 (used to replace coolant via vacuum) [PLEASE POST IF YOU HAVE ANY SPECIAL TOOLS YOU PLAN TO BRING AND I WILL UPDATE THE LIST]

OK, got the shop's approval and it looks like Dec 10th is available for a Work on Your Car Day in San Jose. I will post the details on the Events and News Board under the SF Bay Area section.

Call these guys, they should be able to help: http://www.beckerautosound.com/

Find the FSM manual for the Transmission: Start on page 34-4 (removing the gearbox), then 30-2 for the clutch. Good luck!

I can understand if a potential buyer is dictating a particular shop. As a seller I wouldn't let just any shop rummage through my car. However, if the seller will not let you take it to any independent shop, then definitely find another car. My indy found chunks of second gear coming out of the transmission on one beautiful 996 aerokit that I really wanted. They also found front and rear body damage not easily visible nor documented by the seller. The tranny alone would have cost $4,000-10,000 to repair. Thank goodness I did it, and I found a better car. Proper PPI's are essential.

Great troubleshooting considering the possibilities! I had something eat completely through one of my knock sensor cables that I had to solder back together. With your car, nothing a little friction tape and spiral wrap can't fix.

I see what you mean, the 'horseshoe" does not go on that end of the line. Part #6 is a $12 part, 99635558601

Doug996InKC, I checked PET and the number posted by Logray is what it shows. Just checking though, the first part number in your latest post starts with 986, is that a typo or what you ordered? I see 99650181500 superceded to 99650181500-GRV and 99650181502 superceded to 99650181502-GRV as potential parts.

Did you go stock or upgrade? I have been eyeing the Wevo semi-solids.

I like the idea. I have a friend who works at a Porsche Shop that may allow us to set up one of these events at their facility (maybe even use of the lift). Stay tuned...

The engine mounts should be simpler than a brake job but you still need some decent mechanical skills: 2 bolts and 1 nut per mount. Basically you need to support the engine properly and do one at a time. I am sure someone will post the official procedure, but here goes: 0. Buy either stock, GT3, or Semi-solid mounts and replacement nut/bolts 1. Properly chock wheels 2. Support and slightly raise engine from proper lift point (see the Orient Express jacking up your car DIY) 3. Remove air box (good time to replace air filter and/or serpentine drive belt) 4. Remove 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding air pump on driver's side, disconnect hose clamp and twist hose off, disconnect electrical connector, remove entire unit 5. Remove single nut from mount from underneath 6. Remove 2 bolts visible from the engine bay 7. replace and tighten to spec using loctite blue or equivalent ( I believe the torque spec for the nut is ~60lb-ft, the side bolts ~18lb-ft) Nice pic by ninerguru: Nice pic from OZ951: For the control arms, it does take some finesse to work on suspension. I have not replaced them on a 996, but have done it on several other cars. The main thing is to take your time and loctite (blue) all of the nuts/bolts and torque to proper specs. Lastly, get a good alignment. If you want to tackle either/both yourself, let me know if you need a hand. I am in the SJ area.

Try a fresh battery in your meter or another meter.

Provided there is no other problem, like the gas cap o-ring Loren mentions, it is supposed to clear after "3 trips," but since a "trip" is defined by the car manufacturer, it will take more than just 3 starts (or a dozen cycles) of the car to clear. Just like most laws, the regulation does not give specifics on the 3 trip requirement: "Misfire and fuel system faults require three trips with “similar conditions” before the MIL [Malfunction Indicator Light] is turned “Off.” These are trips where the engine load, RPM and temperature are similar to the conditions present when the fault was first found." Since you know the cause, I would just drive it some more and let it clear itself. It will stay in memory as a fault which can be cleared the next time at your shop or with a personal diagnostic tool.

Yes, the shifter comes out of second gear on its own and in some cases damage to second gear. I test drove an extra nice 996 aerokit that had the problem and although it was driveable, it was difficult to engage 2nd without a crunch. You really had to pull on the shifter with some force to get it to engage. I walked away after finding out that it was $4-10k for a tranny. Apparently the gears are pressed on together with a set of shims using something like an 80-ton press which can be slightly off. Not sure why second gear is more likely a problem It is not a job for you corner transmission shop. I installed the detent on my car after I tested a couple of other 996's. They felt firm but noticed I could get my shifter to pop out of 2nd with a very light nudge (engine off of course). With the new detent, the gear holds firmly just like all the rest. Maybe just me, but I think it is cheap insurance like all the other 'pre-failure directives.'

Having driven Japanese cars for the last 15 years, I can say the GETRAG gearboxes are infinitely smoother in comparison. None of my prior Japanese gearboxes ever felt as solid. There is a second gear issue reported by some. Here is a link that talks about this issue: http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html I don't think it is a pedal issue since you are experiencing problems in second gear.

Loren, he mentioned that the dealership checked and found no fault codes. I agree not to replace parts either without more investigation. I noticed that I cannot find a part# for the pressure sensor. Does that mean you have to replace the whole hydraulic assembly ($1800-3000) if the pressure sensor dies? Msaif, I read your post again and noticed you did not tell us when the problem started. Is it recently or after one of the services you mention were done to the car?

Pictures please...

The wire is taped outside the bundle but I still have to be very close to the car. I used to have to put the key literally on the window sometimes so this is better.

A couple of things I can think of: There is that there is a pressure sensor on the ABS manifold itself that may be incorrectly measuring pressure. The same Bosch module is used for some BMW's (and other cars) and that sensor has been known to fail. I have had failed sensors or modules that did not report errors to the OBD system so it would not surprise me that there is something that failed but is not being reported. I would start with this pressure sensor and in parallel have the wheel speed sensors removed and cleaned. The wheel sensors pick up lots of ferrous material and can send the ABS module incorrect information. Here is a generic cleaning procedure for removing and cleaning a very dirty sensor but the main thing is to pull each one out from each wheel hub and removed the junk that is on them: http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/ss/abs_sens_cln.htm

One thing to add... after fixing this knock sensor problem, my fuel economy improved quite a bit (~40 miles per tank more) and overall performance. I think the ECU must have been running the car rich?

Completely agree that 8 is better than nothing.