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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. Awesome...good find and good job! I was going to help with a PN for that snap ring/circlip but I went all over the Porsche PET and cannot find it listed. So you may have to either go to the Porsche dealer for some research/help, or a junk yard, or buy a box of various sized metric snap rings and just keep trying until one fits.
  2. Wow! Who in the world would do that....and why would someone do that?! No, it should not be like that, of course.
  3. Since you suspect the car was in an accident, is it possible that for some reason the steering wheel was removed and somebody forgot to tighten the steering wheel nut? The reason I ask is it seems almost impossible for there to be any play along the steering column shaft unless something is not tighten up correctly. You can see the steering column gear here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=403-05
  4. That is still a lot of codes! The P1531-1340 code is interesting. You might consider replacing your Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). If the DME is not getting the right signal from the CPS, then it doesn't know where the crankshaft is in relation to the camshafts and timing of the cylinder firings, thus creating a situation where the cylinders misfire in relation to the crank position and the camshafts. Another guess is one of the Hall sensors, but I think not because of the misfires on both banks.
  5. See attached diagram of the fuel system. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=201-01 Difficulty in fueling may be linked to the vapor recovery valve or bleeder valve, Part 12 and 23. They are located behind the right front fender liner. Your description of using the compressed air and hearing a sound in front leads me to think that one or the other of these valves is faulty. It also sounds like you may have a vacuum leak somewhere and those are difficult to find. It could be related to one of those two valves.
  6. It could be the bearings in your secondary air injection pump. The SAI pump is located on the left side in your engine compartment. Should sound like a vacuum cleaner when you cold start the car. Besides checking the serpentine belt and pulleys, if the screeching sound occurs again, you can unplug the electrical connector to the SAI pump and see if it stops.
  7. Not very difficult if you are already digging in there to remove the starter. See Part No. 21 in this diagram:http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=902-05 Good discussion on Y Cable replacementhttp://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/870715-alternator-starter-cable-replacement-simplified.html
  8. I see you posted here as well as Rennlist. I posted my comments there. The starter bendix is stuck on the flywheel. Remove the starter and get a brand new Bosch starter. Also, you didn't mention in either post whether the battery has been tested or how old it is. Sluggish/weak starting can be attributed to a bad battery, bad Y-cable, corroded ground connector on the engine. Check those as well.
  9. It's a Torx head screw. Either a Torx bit or Torx screwdriver will work, however I forget the size. I have both sets and just find one that fits.
  10. That's a lot of codes! I would pursue exactly what you are doing - replace spark plugs and check coils. Maybe replace all coils. While your at it, clean the MAF and TB. The fuel vent valve code is not uncommon and usually replacing it fixes the problem. Do what you plan to do, clear all codes and see what comes back. Might consider replacing the MAF sensor as well.
  11. No idea about London. I would start by getting your transmission fluid checked and changed. I have heard, but not experienced, that the bearings in the gearbox can go bad. A change of transmission fluid may reveal some metal particles if that is the case. There is also a magnetic plug in the gearbox that can be reached from the drain plug hole. Have to stick a finger in there to feel if there is anything on it.
  12. Really is best to remove the whole Throttle body and then remove the ICV. Then you can access the screws holding the ICV to the TB easily. Use a 9V battery to operate the ICV back and forth, otherwise you will not get it cleaned out properly. Be very careful with the paper gasket, it tears easily. I used throttle body cleaner, soaked it overnight, then clean out the crevices with Q-tips while operating the ICV with a 9V battery. Then blow the whole assembly clean. Meanwhile, clean out the TB. It really is a pretty simple job.
  13. Was the EBay regulator new or used? I have heard of many problems with substandard window regulators. I decided that since my OE window regulator worked for 15 years before needing replacement, I would replace it with an OE regulator. Haven't had a problem since then. Did you do the entire "re-learning" process? Window full down, and continue to hold the button for 10-15 seconds, then window full up and continue to hold the button for 10-15 seconds? If after that the window doesn't drop, sorry to say it's a bad regulator.
  14. Well, that's good. The reason I posted the link was that sometimes someone, even with a different Porsche car, finds a solution. I should have just posted "clean your seatbelt holsters" and make sure the wiring for the seatbelts isn't pinched or disconnected. I recall someone else saying they solved this error code by doing that. But as you have now stated - the problem comes back when the drivers door is jarred. So I think you may be headed in the right direction - loose wire or connector behind the door card. You can safely work on the drivers side airbag and door card by s
  15. http://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/824686-air-bag-light-thank-you-rennlist.html
  16. I researched mine before recent replacement. Used Bosch 14FGR 6KQE 4 prong (Bosch 7413) 99 C2 3.4L M96/01 https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/product.aspx?zpid=8113
  17. This is also a good solution for clunking and fairly easy to install: http://www.function-first.com/products/engine-trans/trans-mount-insert
  18. One reason for going with the spin-on filter adapter is eliminating the bypass. The OE filter canister has a bypass. When you use the filter adapter and regular spin-on oil filter as recommended, that means 100% of your oil is going through the filter all the time. Have heard the OE filter bypass spring deteriorates over time and with heat cycles and then the canister filter doesn't sit right, which means oil is not being filtered.
  19. For a 2000 - An easy fix would be to change out your motor mounts. Known to cause shifting and clunking noises from the rear. Then it would be on to the transmission mount, but that is difficult to do as it requires dropping the transmission. Could be a CV joint if it appears on one side of the car, or the other. Other things could be struts, drop links, basically any rear suspension component. I would start with the motor mounts.
  20. The best maintenance to do is change your oil/filter frequently, i.e., <5,000 miles. Also get the LN Engineering spin-on oil filter adapter and LN Engineering magnetic drain plug. http://lnengineering.com/
  21. Yes, I agree with this as well. I wonder if the OP has the means to do this. From our perspective, we know it would be the wisest choice to NOT start the engine and check out what has been said, everything from oil filter inspection to pulling the plugs, checking the pulleys and slowly turning over the engine by hand. He will need to determine what is going on with the engine first, and that means getting in there to inspect, check and go over things. If he does not have the capability or knowledge to do that, he needs to get his car to a reputable shop for diagnosis. In the end, it's a r
  22. I'm with Loren on this one. You said spark plugs inspected w/29K miles on them, but you didn't say you replaced them. Point in case, recent misfire on my car. Determined to be bad plugs, and I only had 24K miles on them. Replaced with new plugs and no more misfires. Put in new plugs.
  23. Well I do agree. It is approximate just going by the dash voltmeter. The best way would be to put a multimeter on the battery and determine the true voltage, or do a load test on the battery. But my point was it should be higher than what he said it shows. And then goes straight to zero when he tries to start it. Something is causing a huge voltage drop, or the battery has no capacity.
  24. First, 12V then goes to 0V when you try to start it is not right. 12V is not enough to spin the starter, so your battery is not charged. Should be closer to showing 14V on the dash voltmeter when the ignition key is turned on. That it goes to 0V is strange, like the battery has no reserve capacity and is just dead. Maybe your new battery has a bad cell and cannot hold a charge, or a busted cell internally. Happens. You are going to have to first figure out what is going on with the battery. Maybe swap one in from another car, or have the local auto store test it. You could also try jum
  25. Sorry, not enough to go on. So the engine died. Was the "popping sound" exhaust or mechanical? Does it crank but not start? Is the CEL on? Do you have an OBDII reader and can check for codes? Type of car, year, recent maintenance or repairs? What does the voltage read when you turn the car on but don't start it?
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