Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

DBJoe996

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    703
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. I gave my opinion based on two things - Porsche recommends Mobil 1 (yes, and along with an entire list of approved oils - see Loren's post) and my own experience with running synthetics since they first came out. I offered my post because I use Mobil 1, have 121,000 miles on my 99 996 and have never experienced any problems. I have used Mobil 1 in a variety of other vehicles that I have owned and racked up thousands of miles. It works and I have never had an engine oil related problem, ever. It is your car and you can run whatever oil brand you want. I was simply offering up my advice based upon experience. I am a consultant and I am highly paid for my recommendations, so I do understand the arrangement. I also understand that oil vendors pay a royal sum to Porsche to have their oil certified. I'm confident the certification process includes a lot of testing and evaluation...more so than one individual can do. Mobil 1 is cheap (I get mine at Wal-Mart for ~$25/5 quart), I change my oil often and I'm very secure in the knowledge that I'm running a quality oil approved and recommended by Porsche. Drive on!
  2. Maybe we need to get back to the OP's issue - I want a magnetic drain plug. Seems like the debate on whether they actually do something, or not, could be debated ad infinitum. The reason I posted earlier about the LN product being a good choice is that having done several oil changes and stripping out the OE aluminum drain plug almost every single time (replacing with a new one every time), I simply felt there must be a better drain plug. The LN drain plug with the larger hex size and made of hardened material works perfectly and is far superior to the original. I would have bought it with or without the magnet. I figure the magnet is just a bonus and if it does catch something then all the better. There may be other drain plug alternatives out there, but for me the choice of the LN drain plug has proven to be an excellent choice. I also installed the LN oil filter adapter plate and now use a spin on oil filter cartridge. Also works great. My oil/filter changes are really easy now without any drama.
  3. I think it goes like this but Loren may have to confirm. One push on the remote locks the car, two pushes arms the alarm. If everything is right, no horn beeps (unless someone programmed it that way). If the horn beeps, something is ajar, gas cap, center console, door ajar, hood ajar or one of the switches to those is not right. For what it's worth, might check all of the contacts at those points. Agree that a trip to the dealer would isolate which switch is not working correctly and may save a lot of time figuring out which one.
  4. I purchased the LN magnetic drain plug. Works perfect. Buy it. Really? You would buy something from a company that doesn't even have the correct measurements and they ask you for them? I would avoid that vendor like the plague. Just my two cents....
  5. Those were in the oil sump? I'm guessing the chain tensioner wear pads from the brown bits. What year and how many miles? Any bad noises?
  6. First, I would not run the engine without the belt. Would it be possible for you to have someone assist you so that you can listen in the engine compartment to see if you can isolate where the chirp is coming from? I'm leaning towards throttle body, air box or something along the intake system since it only happens on start up or goosing the throttle. Or maybe a motor mount...exhaust bracket...when ever the motor rocks. Might help to have someone goose the throttle while you listen in the engine compartment.
  7. It is not a Cadillac! My brakes do the same thing when hot after several good spirited runs....I love that sound actually. Sounds like the Rolex cars when they come flying into the pits. My wife likes it too. It is just the nature of the car and your brake setup. Softer pads won't squeal but they won't stop you as fast. It's all a compromise.
  8. So glad to hear you got things fixed up right. There are all sorts of sensitive vulnerable things under there! Would suggest NOT backing over any more footpath dividers. Since the car is lower than most, it requires careful attention in parking lots...those concrete parking curbs can do some real damage. You did learn a little bit about your car and now have some valuable experience..and the car turned out okay...so smile and drive!
  9. Oil brand and oil weight has been debated long and hard on this forum. Here is the deal for me - it is your car, you can run whatever brand oil, oil weight, tires, antifreeze/mix, gas, air filter, etc. you want...it is your choice. Porsche has been making 911's for 54 years, testing, racing, building an outstanding reputation for quality, performance and endurance. My point being that why would you second guess Porsche engineers and what is recommended versus based upon "some folks" opinion's they are wrong. For me, it is Mobil 1. But hey, after 122,000 miles and no problems maybe I should experiment and figure out something better than the engineers recommended oil. Hmmm..on second thought, I don't feel like experimenting with a $30,000 engine. 911 PORSCHE approved oil list.pdf
  10. Stop and think! How could a brilliant car production company, after engineering, manufacturing, testing, and with such a long history of production vehicles, valued, envied, sought after, loved, recommend a oil product for their engineering marvel, and be so wrong that what they recommend actually destroys their product?? Have some guts. Porsche recommends Mobil 1. Use Mobil 1. Forget about daft "friends" who know more than Porsche. I live in Central Florida. I run Mobil 1. Works great....end of story.
  11. It will be interesting to see what someone else says. Why do you not want to believe the cylinder head ports are clogged? How many miles do you have? Mine have to be (I figure after 122,000 miles), the Secondary Air Injection CEL pops up all the time and I carry an inexpensive OBDII reader in the console, read the codes (always the same), erase and forget about it. The SAI system is so the car can pass emission testing at startup, and doesn't do anything but pump air into the engine exhaust mix to fool the testing equipment with a diluted mix. I figure my routine is to read/delete the codes when they pop up until one day I have to pull the engine, fix all kinds of stuff and probably tackle this minor issue at that time. Some people have even (gasp!!) removed the bulb from the CEL to stop the annoyance regarding SAI CEL's all the time. Not me...but just saying...
  12. They are worthless...I'll send you my address so you can ship them to me. :D Okay, more seriously, I would figure you could get about $1200 -$1400 for the full wheel/tire combination. Why not post on PCA Panorama and see what you can get? Somebody might be looking for a winter combo.
  13. 99 996 C2 - have used the LN magnetic drain plug for several years/many oil changes...no problems whatsoever.
  14. Is it only the driver's door? Have you tried the passenger door to see if it happens when you open it? Radio on or off? The reason for asking is that if it is isolated to only the driver's door, then you need to check the wiring and grounding on that door only....if it does it for any electrical draw, the passenger door, overhead lights, trunk, etc., then it might be related to radio wiring, grounding and something there that will make you have to dig deeper. It might be one of the micro-switches in the door when energized, and wet, causes a quick short to ground. Since you have the door panel removed, maybe disconnecting one wire at a time on the speaker and figuring out if it is the + or - connected (or maybe only both) will lead you to a solution.
  15. I guess none of us are this brave. I would be interested in knowing how it goes.
  16. Water pump Idler pulleys Plugs and coils Clean out your SAI ports New serpentine belt Air cleaner filter Oil filter/Oil Guessing you probably already know these items, but thought I would throw them in there!
  17. There was another thread about a similar issue here, at least throwing some of the same codes: http://www.renntech....-start-misfire/ Sounds like your plan is a good one and you are on track. I was wondering...how well did you clean the MAF and have you changed/checked your air filter? Are you running stock or aftermarket air cleaner? The MAF really comes into play at 4000 RPM and above, although it would affect all cylinders. Maybe the live run with your Durametric will give you some further clues. I would go ahead and run the Techron as well, looks like with the low mileage the car doesn't get much daily use and therefore the injectors might be a bit gummed up with old fuel.
  18. What...what?? Did I miss something?? I use that stuff all all kinds of sliding mechanisms, it is really slippery and doesn't dissolve in other liquids. Should be in every good mechanics drawers..... :jump:
  19. P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected Since the cylinders where the misfires are detected are on opposite sides, I suspect it is not one of the catalytic converters going bad (could be both but not probable). I would start again where you left off...plugs, coils, connectors on the affected cylinders, change them out (again) or swap them and see if the errors change to a different cylinder. That might help you isolate the problem to a specific coil pack. Plugs gapped correctly? All the same and correct type? Even the smallest problem with the plug or coil pack (carbon trace) could affect the high RPM spark and throw a error code. When was the last time you ran some Techron through it? Sorry....mainly guessing at this point. A Durametric or the dealer might be worth a visit...
  20. Had to bump the fall season oil change/filter up the list with the wife :) (one beer job) and I have a very tiny leak of coolant from the AOS regions <_< (maybe a 3 beer job)...so those will have to come first, but I'm putting this on the list for the very near future because I think it would be cool to have it working again. I will certainly post the results. Cheers :cheers: Oh, and anyway, will be at the Daytona Beach Speedway Track for the PCA/Porsche Club Daytona Oktoberfest all Porsche all weekend racing event with my wife, chairs and cooler, so even the oil/filter change will be a bit postponed. Went there today during lunch and there are lots of cool cars in the garage area and activities already going...can't wait! I was so proud of my car.....and my wife...she just loves these events as well.
  21. One thing I have also wondered about is I have one key with a full key head remote w/transponder pill and another that is just only a key...no key head and no transponder pill. The second key is just the blade and small gray piece of plastic solid key head (so small it is very unlikely to contain a pill). They both work to lock/unlock (manually), arm/disarm the alarm and start the car. I've used both and there is no difference that I have ever noticed. Why is this? I looked at those key heads w/circuit board from Suncoast and for $129.95 I'm considering getting one to fix my remote. Thanks for the suggestions.
  22. My key fob stopped working 2 years ago. Did the same thing...intermittently working, flashing, blah blah, it finally gave up the ghost and stopped working altogether. It is the circuit board in the key fob. Not being interested in spending the money to replace the key fob and reprogram, I just use the key, lock/unlock the door and all is well. Been doing that for quite a long time now. No problems and the alarm is also set this way, so nothing to worry about. You're going to have to "invest" in a new key fob with the programming code (don't buy one off EBay), visit your dealer and have them set it up again. Then you can wait another 3-4 years before it craps out again...repeat and repeat.
  23. Comment - you haven't even purchased the car and already you are worried about something that may or may not ever happen! There are many of us, me included, that have the original engine and IMS and have logged over 120,000 miles with not even a blip of a problem. No car is perfect and everything will fail eventually. I've had many other cars and they have all broken at some point. It is wise to consider this issue, but to make your decision only on that particular problem, and probably never going to happen problem, you are missing the true joy of owning/driving a Porsche. If from day one you cannot enjoy this experience, then forget it and pass. Sure, something might happen, just as in life stuff happens, but are you going to miss out if all you can do is focus on "what might happen." It's a car.....it will need some attention. Buy the car, drive it with complete abandon, enjoy every minute of ownership, feel the pride, heritage, engineering marvel, quality of build and the way you feel in it when you are driving, but please don't sit in your chair and worry that it's going to blow at any minute! It was serviced at a Porshce Dealer and sounds like it has been well maintained. Change the oil and filter as a precaution and go out and drive one of the best cars in the world! There is no substitute........
  24. Well, don't know how we got from CPS to ABS, but hopefully you'll get that worked out and be on your way. Happy motoring! :thumbup:
  25. New coolant level sensor bad? Connected wrong? I really like the other ideas here as well. Read one thread on here about the older style coolant tank sloshing during spirited driving and causing the light to blink. That would indicate a low coolant level false alarm. I did my water pump/thermostat, filled the coolant tank, burped the system, ran the engine, refilled the coolant tank to correct level, drove about thirty miles and the coolant light was flashing like that, checked the coolant level again and had to add a lot more coolant. I had to do that about 3 times over. These are notorious for difficulty in "burping" out the air and finally getting the correct coolant level. If all else fails and the coolant level is correct in the tank, you might try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes, reconnect and then drive and see if the coolant light stays off. How do you know the engine compartment fan works? Mine never runs even when it is 98 or more. I've only ever heard the fan run once, so maybe Loren's suggestion is absolutely on the right track..the engine compartment temp sensor is laying on the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.