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wyovino

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Everything posted by wyovino

  1. I bought this one (Bosch Platinum Series AGM (H7/L4/94R) and I'm very happy with it. I've had it more than a year. I use my car mainly on the weekends and I don't have it on a battery maintainer. One of the benefits of AGM batteries is that they are less prone to failure due to lack of use than traditional batteries. https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/838845/00871
  2. You likely have two separate issues. 1. The key fob stopped working - this is very common and is likely caused by bad/broken solder connections on the PC board. This is fixable and there is a DIY on this site. 2. You probably have a problem with your driver's side door latch. This is the more expensive of the two problems. A door latch will cost around $250 for the part. The replacement DIY isn't too bad but I would try to better diagnose the problem before throwing money at it.
  3. Yes. The air going back into the box is just muffled to reduce the sound. If you seal if off you will get a bit more sound at high RPMs. Here is how I did mine using the cap from a quart of Castro Edge motor oil, which just happens to fit perfectly when inverted. Insert the cap upside down and reattach the hose. Done.
  4. You don't need to remove the heat shields to remove the exhaust. The only steps you need to perform out of that whole guide are steps 8 and 9.
  5. I don't see any benefit to removing the bumper either for the plugs or water pump. Actually there is no common labor between the two procedures, so it's not a "while you're in there" kind of thing to do them at the same time. Some people have done the plugs and tubes without removing the exhaust, but I don't see how or why. Removing the mufflers is not difficult but there is a knack to it. Once you have figured out where to place the socket wrench and which extensions to use, it's easy. I can now remove both sides in about 15 minutes.
  6. Did you replace the passenger door latch or just the micro switches?
  7. 1. Replace the parking brake switch or jiggle it a bit and it might free up. 2. Check bulbs and fuses. Could also be a switch 3. You are low on coolant or the coolant level sensor is balky. 4. Does it react the same way if the outside or inside handles are used? If so, probably the window regulator. If one handle works well and the other doesn't, then it's a micro switch in that handle.
  8. I just noticed that your parts description says 01-04 engines. Mine is a MY 2000. Is there a similar mechanism on the earlier engines?
  9. I love to hear about $20 fixes, but can you explain the function of this thing? Is it an oil pressure sensor? Is it worth swapping out proactively?
  10. The transmission guy said that it would be better if the shifts were spaced farther apart. In auto mode, you can be doing 35-40 and be in fifth gear.
  11. Update. The transmission guy says that it will eventually need a rebuild (around $6k) and that I should just live with it for now. It has minor slippage in fourth gear which is much less noticeable in manual. Pressure tests were all good, but it will eventually need a clutch pack. They did a normal service (fluid and filter) and sent me on my way. I'm happy that they didn't just throw parts at it but a little bummed that it's not fixed. Can a 2000 ZF Tiptronic be reprogrammed using a Durametric or is that only doable with Piwis?
  12. The plan is to pressure test some stuff and do a fluid and filter change. If necessary, he will put in a Sonnax valve body (or something like that). He's taking a conservative approach rather than just throwing parts at it.
  13. I'm not certain but I assume so as he was able to read codes from the Tip. I'll get more info when he calls back but he seemed to think it was a physical problem and not due to the fluid. Unfortunately I have no knowledge about the workings of an automatic transmission, so he could tell me that the unicorn broke its leg and I would ask "How much for a new unicorn?"
  14. I took it to my trusted indy who then referred me to a transmission place he works with. The car has a 200-300 rpm slippage in fourth gear if you blip the throttle or when it changes gears. They have had the car for eight days now and I'm not getting a warm feeling about this. He is going to get back to me later today with a price for some tuning kit (don't remember what it's called). I don't know when or if it's ever had routine service. The car has 62000 miles on it and I bought it at 37000. He says the fluid looks very good. Should I bite the bullet and take it to my local Porsche dealer?
  15. For the reader, there are many and they are inexpensive. Check Amazon. I have the Dash Command app. It's pretty good. I don't think it can clear codes, but I'm not 100% sure. If you really just want something to read and clear codes, buy a regular code reader. They're relatively cheap (around $50) and you can keep it in the frunk. To me, the bluetooth and wireless varieties are just novelties.
  16. I've found it's much easier if you have someone else operating the tensioner while you thread the belt.
  17. Most likely it's an aftermarket radar and/or laser detector. The left light indicating a signal is detected ahead and the right light indicating it's to the rear.
  18. I have a 2000 Cab as well and had my plastic window delaminate a couple of years ago. I followed a DIY for gluing and stitching it. The results were rather ugly looking and I did a good job of mutilating my hands in the process. It did hold up for a year before I decided to get a new top. For the window to be properly repaired, the entire top must come off. The labor for removing, repairing the window and reinstalling the top is more than half way to getting a new top with installation. My top is from a company called GAHH that uses the original German A5 canvas. That's my suggestion to you rather than putting a $750 repair on a 15 year old piece of canvas. The plastic windows on the new tops are double stitched and are unlikely to suffer from delamination. For a few hundred dollars more you can get a top with a glass window. I prefer the plastic window over the very small glass window, but that's a personal preference.
  19. I jack mine up under the crossmember that is forward of the oil pan, put jack stands under the rear jacking points, then lower and remove the jack. My jack isn't low enough to fit so I have to drive the rear wheels onto 2 x 4s so there is enough clearance. The key for me is to remember to put 2 x 4s back under the wheels before I lower the car or I can't get the jack out. Ask me how I know :)
  20. Any idea about what the current recommendation is for replacing the LNE Dual row bearing?
  21. I'll answer my own question - No, you can't get the water pump out from the top even if you loosen the mounting bracket as detailed in the DIY. At least I couldn't. I had to unbolt the hard line and remove the thermostat housing, which I was replacing anyway, and remove the water pump from the bottom. I did find that removing the idler pulley just above the water pump made it easier to reach in to unbolt the water pump - more room to get your hands and tools in. The two frustrating parts of the process are the upper right bolt on the thermostat housing and the upper right bolt on the water pump. If someone could come up with a good tool for these the whole thing would be pretty easy. Those two bolts took me several hours plus several trips to Home Depot and Ace Hardware looking for something that would work. The other tool that I found to be absolutely necessary was a hook for removing the hoses. I got mine at Harbor Freight. If your hoses are original and have never been removed, they won't come off without a fight. The hook made if manageable. Back on the road. No leaks, warning lights, or unusual sounds. The temperature needle is where it has usually been.
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