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Everything posted by 318touring

  1. $20k? And that's in USD which translates to around $30-ish thousands in NZD! Not really feasible for a small business where only a small %age of the customer base needing it.
  2. Exactly. I'm planning to give your instructions to the OPC and get them to exactly follow these step-by-step. They'll have the latest PIWIS. This is the problem here that there isn't enough modern 911s for the indy to invest $5-$10k on the 'latest' tools all the time.
  3. Thanks Richard, I was hoping you'd read this. I should have updated my profile, I actually now have a 2010 997.2 C2, profile fixed now BTW. I provided the link to this post to them, I don't know whether they followed your instruction to the letter. Since I'm bringing the car to OPC, and there isn't a lot of 911s in Wellington (New Zealand) so this might be the first one they have to do. So I'm hoping to be able to get them to read through a set of instructions rather than doing trial and error. The indy said that using Durametric, the DME didn't show an option for cruise control. Using their 'older' Piwis, it showed cruise control but didn't accept the setting provided.
  4. Thread revival! So I've just gotten my local indy doing this and while they can code the instrument cluster and gateway modules (symbol shows up at ignition at pos. 2), they can't code DME and steering column control unit. Any idea why? I'm booking the car for the dealer to take a look at as the indy indicated that it might be their Durametric and old Piwis (to 996 only) might be the cause.
  5. X-posting from other forums as this seems to be a rare issue? Car is 2010, C2, PDK Has anyone had this issue? I have read a post or two where people were just leaving things be. Would appreciate getting any feedback on what could be the cause. I have checked the power steering fluid, and it was full. The video is of the rack itself. Thanks!
  6. If yours is 2003 then you have the MB trans. Which will require removal of both for the work you intend on doing. Might as well do some trans maintenance while you're at it.
  7. @Jay reading through the thread in the UK forum, your leaky pipes will be on the driver side and the plug on the passenger side? I will have to get an extended mirror and better access to the underside of the car. Have booked with a Merc transmission specialist on 6 Jan, as OPC and indy can't help.
  8. Thanks, any idea where this connector might be on 996? The oil pan looks rather different to what's shown here.
  9. I've got a leak which has been ongoing for a couple of years. Since I don't have a lift I have only been unable to stick my head under the unit trying to find this elusive plug. Part diagram doesn't really help. So the question is, can anyone tell me where exactly this plug is? Preferably with a picture :-)
  10. My setup, from the fuse box as my car does have a phone and different connector - also mine is not a US car
  11. My experience might be useful? Go to the last post for resolution, and 1st post for the clunking noise I had. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/946642-id-these-noises.html
  12. Success!! Now you reverse in confidence all weekend long. I didn't realise that the whole reversing system was shot until I almost crash onto a wall when reversing. I have reversing sensors and have always been depending on it to tell me how much space I've got left.
  13. This is the 'hack' in MFS that you'll need to do: Reverse light switch on tiptronic trans? - Rennlist Discussion Forums At least you had removed the center console, the second time would be easier and faster (usually).
  14. @Larry 2002/911/996 don't worry about it. This is apparently a common issue but not common enough for Bentley to mention it. I was hoping it would be a connector somewhere in the gearbox housing but no, I had to deal with lots of screws including one that was holding the coin holder (do you know that the car has a coin holder inside the center console?)
  15. It's potentially this switch: Happened to me, reverse sensor worked on and off along with the reversing lights, took the whole console out, opened the switch, bend the copper arms, put it all back together.
  16. This has been bugging me. The knob (shiny) part popped off one day, with the metal U-ish shape still attached to it. Refer to Pic 1, the U-ish shape metal is marked. Now I have been having no luck in trying to put the knob into the lever again! Tried installing the U-ish metal first by pushing it against the horizontal bar on the lever (Pic 2), however once that's in I have no way putting the metal into the know again. Please help :-(
  17. Took me 9 months to do this exact job, from receiving the information from Ahsai (thanks buddy!!) to actually tightening up the bolts and wiping coolant off my face. BTW, I didn't drain the coolant hence wiping coolant off my face.
  18. Obviously, Jake sees a lot more engines completely disassembled than we do, so I would be the last to refute his observations, plus there are many instances we are aware of that ultimately turned out to be confirmed cylinder issues on the M96/97 engines. He does have a valid point about cold start induced wear, particularly on engines that continue to run lower film strength 0W-40 oils as most engine wear occurs during cold start and warm up when these oils are at their weakest levels of wear protection, and the cars are often just cold started and then immediately driven without any real warm up period. If you are concerned that Jake may be correct, I would pull the plugs and bore scope the cylinders looking for signs of unusual thrust side wear patterns, which are often quite obvious even to the untrained observer. For clarification, when you said "the cars are often just cold started and then immediately driven without any real warm up period." this was talking about when people went past 3000rpms while the engine/oil is cold?
  19. Thanks for that, I'll give it a check if the car hasn't been to the garage this week. I'll obviously let them know your suggestion and for them to confirm it. Otherwise I'll take a look again on the weekend, as the car needs to be really warm before it starts making that noise.
  20. Thanks, would that #8 in the diagram? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=360-03&pn=92857457303#a That would be on the left side of the vehicle, which is the other side to where I put my phone for recording the noise. Left and right is when looking at the vehicle from the back.
  21. Thanks Ahsai. Gasket was my the top of my list, they might not tightened the pan correctly as suggested by Porsche when they took the tranmission out. BTW, would you have any idea what would be causing this sound, as captured in my last post in this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44468-auto-noise-when-stationary-and-in-gear/?p=261472?
  22. To revive this thread, especially no one still knows the reason, and I at last managed to remember to get the sound mentioned by OP. To recap, on Tiptronic regardless whether it's the new or old gearbox. Only happened when the gear lever was moved from N or P to R, or D. Or the car's turned off and on P. Only happened when the car was really warm, and after a spirited drive. Never occurred after it's first started on the day, or when it's cooled down. The cideo captured the noise on the following seconds : 3, 8, 14, 19, 23 and when it's tunred off at 31. I put my phone on the ground just below the B-pillar, on the right side of the car. http://youtu.be/NPEScjeTEPo
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