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hahnmgh63
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Everything posted by hahnmgh63
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O2 sensor shock......
hahnmgh63 replied to PKN's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Yes, curious. All of Bank 2 or just random cylinders? Coil wiring? Injector wiring? Don't want to go negative but I have seen low cylinder compression throw a cylinder misfire (probably one of the least likely situations, especially considering it's a Turbo). -
O2 sensor shock......
hahnmgh63 replied to PKN's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Put the Bosch sensor part #'s in an Amazon search and you will find some pretty reasonable prices, OEM manufacturer. -
O2 sensor shock......
hahnmgh63 replied to PKN's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Rear is a Bosch 16498 and front is a Bosch 17174. Both can be had for much less than $200. -
I agree. 91 RON is quite low, if you keep the speed down and keep out of hard acceleration (staying out of the boost) you will be fine. 95 is really the minimum you should be running. The knock sensors will retard timing and lower boost if they detect detonation (I believe it is Timing first followed by Boost). But for a cross country drive driving easy it should be fine.
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Usual install is behind the glove box so you can run the Ipod cord out through the glove box and/or under the center tunnel and out by the center arm rest.
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It may only be the Bluetooth Morbridge or does it show the model number in the manual to be Mobridge Bluetooth/Ipod?
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Congrats
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Either the seal on the Torque converter is leaking or the transmission input shaft seal is leaking. If you had the coolant pipes leak in the past, the antifreeze is somewhat corrosive and could have destroyed one of the two mentioned seals/O-rings.
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What he said. If you have a 2003 or 2004 it is recommended to replace both. The Servo motor is a fairly easy DIY. It is located on the right side of the transfer case on the back of the transmission. There are two plugs that go to the servo unit. Don't know if you can get Ebay.de stuff easy there but you can find Cayenne or Touareg units for fairly cheap (Touareg is the same as the Cayenne's). Just find one that is '05 or newer. Not positive but I think up until at least 2010 or 2011 model year.
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Yea, Mann & Mahle have been OEM suppliers to most of the German car manufacturers for years. Sometimes one year you will get the Mann version (with OEM stamp) and one year you will get the Mahle version. Just depends on who gets the contract at the time. Years ago, the German division of Purolator was the main supplier for 911 oil, air, and fuel filters but now it seems like almost exclusively Mahle or Mann.
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Good idea about the magnetic drain plugs for the Diffs. I just bought two magnetic drain plugs for the CTTS oil (engine) pan that I'm installing tonight. See "Anal" above, I pulled the plugs and have been draining for the last two days, also installed the filter in the plastic housing and filled with fresh oil until is soaked in and filled all the way to the top before re-installing (helps on that big dry startup after the oil change).
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Hot or cold I don't think it really matters but if it's cold you may let it drain a little longer. I'm anal so I always let mine drain overnight (Engine, trannies, Diffs) and for the engine at least, I fill filter with Oil before installing.
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Yea, it's one of those items that are almost twice the price from VW/Audi than buying it from Porsche. Funny how that happens sometimes, strange pricing.
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If it's full then it's full, 7.5qts is pretty close to the mark, especially for an '04 which had about 1/2qt capacity less than '05 onwards. If you can, drive it for a mile or so and park for a few hours to let it cool down some, then recheck the fill procedure. Guaranteed to get any air out of it and you are probably so close to the proper level your definitely not going to damage anything. Make sure you have the fill plug in at no more than 40' or you will be a bit low. A large rebuilder I know recommends closer to 35'~40'. He say's better to be a touch high than a touch low.
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sound in engine
hahnmgh63 replied to escapolog's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Hard to tell from the video but also sounds like a pulley or something but if it stops when you lift the dipstick then it must be something else. -
Haven't tried that kit but it may be the same as Ebay seller bagpipingandy also from the UK. I've bought two of his kits. One for my girlfriends A8 (also a Wabco compressor but different size) and a spare for the Cayenne (already did the VW kit two years ago). His kit is as good as the VW kit for a fraction of the price.
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If you contact the guy 717 who posted on there, he may be able to help. Sounds like he took his apart and re-assembled it successfully.
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Check out the Panoramic Sunroof thread on Rennlist and you might find some help there. It has a recent post so it is on the first page still.
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The 1810 code means motor 95562490801 is bad. $128 from Sonnen. If there was a way for us to cross reference with the VW part number I'm sure it could be found even cheaper. The worst part is the install, a real pain as the underdash really has to come apart. 1810 is Servo Motor for Right Temperature Valve (4 zone A/C). You do have 4 zone A/C right? Search or download this Porsche .pdf http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/HVAC%202.pdf
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The Transfer case is Esso spec ATF LT 71141, not a hypoid gear oil. Porsche say's the older Cayenne Transfer case fluid was Blue but the newer is standard Red looking. See Porsche Cayenne TSB 2/04 3965 for the specs. Front Diff: 1 liter Synthetic gear oil Rear Diff: 1.4 liters Synthetic gear oil or 1.6 liters if equipped with optional rear locking diff, w/friction modifyer. Transfer Case: 0.85 liters Synthetic ATF Esso spec LT 71141 Tiptronic (2003-2004): 9 liters (8.5l refill) Esso spec JWS 3309 or Toyota Type T-IV. Many quality Synthetic ATF's can meet or exceed both ATF specs such as Redline D4 (which I use in both). Some lower quality ATF's can meet only one or neither. Look for a quality ATF that is labeled with both or at least the right spec for the right use, ie...Tip or Transfer.
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How old is the battery will be the first question most will ask. I ask because you have many faults, some related but some not related. If it's and old battery replace it, clear the codes, then drive it and run a scan again to see what comes back.
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You are correct to ask if they tried a wet compression test after the dry, sounds like they didn't. That is a time tested way to determine if an engine needed just a valve job or rings/bore. As far as the injector wetting down the cylinder walls, on a Turbo it is slim since the block has cylinder mounted oil squirters that squirt oil on the bottom of the pistons and the cylinder walls. The non-Turbo V8 doesn't have this. Redo the compression test before anything else, and/or use your borescope and inspect that cylinder right away.
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I would fix the P0441 first, clear the codes, then see what comes back. A fairly easy DIY, there is a tutorial in the DIY section on here. 94811020201, about $80 from the dealer with a new short hose piece attached. Also check all of your vacuum lines to see if there is anything un-attached or broken but the P0441 purge valve is a common known failure.
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Depending on how many cars you have and how much work you do (sounds like you do a bit), one of my greatest tools is my Snapon BK6000 Video inspection camera. It will fit down the plug hole where you can inspect the cylinders, and with the mirror attachment you can look backup at the valves. Slowly crank the engine by hand and you can see all of the valve seats. You can see imperfections, scrapes & scratches in the cylinder walls. It has telescopic capability and variable lighting. I have inspected the cylinders in all of my older vehicles. See if the dealer has something similar, I would think so.
