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This Porsche website will let you download the parts .pdf for most models. Here is a link to the 9PA one which is for our cars. If you plug the part numbers into a good website like Sonnen porsche http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215405it will not only show you the price but it will list if the part number has been superseded to a newer one since Porsche made the .pdf. Also you will see there may be more than one part number listed for what you think is the same item. To the right of that it may list whether it is for a Base model, S, or Turbo, or even Turbo S (M48.50 is a Turbo engine), (M48.00 is an S), (ID 9J is base), (ID 9K is an S), (ID 9L is a Turbo). I'm almost 100% sure on those last codes but I'll double check tonight or maybe someone will chime in if I'm wrong. Almost forgot the Porsche .pdf link: http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/9PA_USA_KATALOG.pdf

I also agree. Porsche Mx has been extended too far. They've went cheap with many things (Plastic Coolant pipes, center support bearing rubber isolation, etc...). Some great design/engineering but substandard materials used on some things. Now with that said I love my Pig, but I do Mx in half or less of the Porsche interval because I'm not sure how long I'm going to keep it and I'd rather cut the wear. No, I don't do 3500mile oil changes, that's stupid and causes more wear with the extra dry startups but I do 8K oil changes. I also changed my tranny fluid at 50K and will do it again around 90~100K. Although I do use Redline fluids for the most part, 5w-40 engine oil, D4 ATF in the tranny, also their Gear oil in the Diffs. 2003 & 2004's had more valve body problems than the 2005-on models. Supposedly it isn't just that there older but that the Valvebody was changed. There is also a TSB on the ATF thermostat for '03 & '04 Cayenne's which caused some trannies to get too hot, also a fluid change from the original fluid (better fluid?). Also, the shifting can be affected by a vacuum leak depending on how large. All of the cheap plastic vacuum & PVC lines on the Cayenne get very brittle after a few years. This is affected by age, miles, climate. My '06CTTS w/74K that I just replaced the plastic Tee's on last month has a few just split with hardly any movement so I replace most all of them. At least the ones that were difficult to get at or damaged. Get that Lean condition fixed soon, Lean is never good, especially on a Turbocharged engine.

wvicary, in Europe even the non Xenon headlamps have a manual adjustment knob for aiming within a small range for different loads which slightly tilt the vehicle. You know how you get that **** truck with cargo in the back or hauling a camper, pulling a trailer, etc... with lights tilted up that blind you? I sure wish we had that feature over here on the non Xenon cars even though most drivers would still be too stupid to use it. It is a nice feature.

With the PCM on press the Main & Trip buttons simultaneously to go to the software versions page.

I believe one of the main reasons to tap into the intake manifold (after the throttle body) is that you can have a gauge that reads the Boost but also reads the vacuum off boost from behind the throttle plate.

If you remove the center plastic trim panel at the back of the engine there are two vacuum lines that plug into the back of the manifold. One goes to the N75 Boost control valve and the other larger line uses one of those snap plugs but right off hand I can't remember where that one. Over on Rennlist the guy Lupo who is trying to get almost 700hp out of his CTTS may know. I would imagine trying to tune for that much power you would install a Boost gauge. The stock one is probably electronic from the ECU/Map sensor.

If your pulling the starter you most likely will be able to get to the T.C. bolts from there.

It is true they sometimes get a small hole in them and can have an effect on idle and such. Also true that Porsche only sells the whole cap. Pelican parts or somebody use to sell this rubber diaphram for something like $20 but if it can't be found anywhere else and your trying to trace down a vacuum leak this could be the good (only) deal around without having to replace the whole (stupid) valve cover. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/69-FUEL-Fixing_Common_Vacuum_Leaks/69-FUEL-Fixing_Common_Vacuum_Leaks.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/67-ENGINE-Repairing_the_Air-Oil_Separator/67-ENGINE-Repairing_the_Air-Oil_Separator.htm

Someone just posted some pics on a DIY on the Cayenne forum on Rennlist. He didn't do the axles but they should be easy once your that far into it (Control arms and Air struts off).

You've probably already figured it out but Porsche doesn't sell it separately. You have to buy the whole piece with the sliding cover.

I would think the top Bell housing bolts would be the toughest to get at. Might be easier to lower the engine/Trans as an assembly then split them apart?

Fairly common failures if you do a search for Blower Motor. Also fairly easy to install, under the passenger footwell by the the Climate Control system air filter. Shop around but stay away from the Bilstein/Febi units as they are cheap and "Made in China".

I would think if you had a air leak then it would have less boost and there would be no reason for the ECU to pull timing? Overboost is the usual reason for the ECU to pull timing. The Cayenne has ME7.1.1 which happens to be the same version Motronic as your RS6. Overboost usually will throw a code and run it into safe mode but underboost due to a small leak rarely throws a code. A leak prior to the Turbos which causes un-metered air to bypass the MAF's will usually throw a lean code. Have you checked for fault codes yet? Worst case is detonation due to overboost or impending knock will pull timing. Almost always, 99.9% of the time the knock sensors will sense the vibration of impending knock and lower boost and/or pull timing depending on the severity of the sensed Boost. The ECU and sensors are smart enough that they can pull timing by individual cylinder. How is the fuel quality your using? Bad Knock sensor (two installed) can be a cause, air intake sensor/map sensor (located on Y-pipe), water temp sensor, to name a few culprits. And yes, you can have a bad air intake sensor or MAP sensor that reads out of range but doesn't fail enough to throw a code.

I would think if you plan on keeping your Cayenne for a while then get it done. It is only a matter of time, and miles until if fails. You can now pick the time and place to get the repair done. If you don't it may fail at a very inconvenient time and like you said, it could damage the seal. With the transmission out that is a perfect time to get at the plastic Coolant Tee's from the back side of the engine so I would do them together. If you haven't done the Coolant Pipes themselves, they're a ticking time bomb for a guaranteed failure. Even if you don't plan on keeping it too long it is a selling point for many knowledgeable potential buyers to having it done. If you have a shop do it all though you will probably not get your money back in the short term. I think the Coolant Tee's & Pipes failure is not just based on mileage but exposure time to heat and age have a factor too. Your low mileage for a 2006 helps but your probably not too far away from failure. I did the pipes 5yrs ago on my '06 CTTS as a preventative, and that was before everyone knew about the Coolant Tee's, well a few weeks ago one of my Coolant Tee's went. Thankfully I was able to drive it home and I'm now finishing up the replacement, including a few vacuum lines on top of the motor which get brittle with age (Porsche did use some real cheap plastic vacuum lines). With the tranny out it is easy to replace your front O2 sensors but with your relatively low mileage I'm not sure I would do them. If they do the seal I think since you have the fluid I would go ahead and do a fluid change, it is a small cost compared to the overall work that would be done. Lot's of good opinions on here and a lot of people with similar experiences to yours so give it a day or so to see what some others say too. Good luck, when there running good they are fun. And with all of this work done your Cayenne's long term reliability will be much improved.

My OEM arms are made by Lemforder ('06 CTTS) but someone else on here said there OEM arms were TRW, I think it was another Turbo but can't remember what year. So it looks like Porsche may have used more than one supplier over the years. I've been happy with Lemforder quality on other cars as well as Meyle HD (not the regular Meyle though). Heard good things about TRW but haven't used them.

Throttle adaption is a very good idea. I would also try to data log your MAF's. Turbos have two and they will never be exactly the same but should be somewhere in the ballpark of each other.

P1508 Torque Comparison Function Monitor - Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault - MAF sensor faulty or at fault detection threshold - DME control module faulty Fault Code 1314 - DME Control Module Possible cause of fault Signal from DME does not correspond to expected signal (please read out fault memory). Signal from DME does not appear on CAN drive (no signal/communication).

Initially sounds like a Boost hose leak but the codes will tell a lot.

I'm not suggesting as I would have to do a back to back compare with the IR thermometer (might be a bit of variance from brand to brand) and the Durametric which reads trans temp sensor through the ECU. Just to help others out I might do a comparison some time next year as I've swapped out my fluid once about 2yrs ago but may do it again to get most of what I didn't get from the Fluid Cooler. I'm just saying that being a little low is wose than being a little high from a very experience transmission friend (specialist is Aisin & ZF modern transmissions). He actually recommends to cap off the fill right at 40'C whereas Porsche magically say's to undo the fill plug at 40'C and then fill if not dripping (when checking level, different procedure when filling from empty) and then cap it at 40'C. While doing Porsche's procedure the temp can increase 5'C or more when your trying to get all of this done. Also, if you did a whole filter change/drain, especially if you pulled the Cooler lines and drained you need to do the fill procedure as best you can, then drive it until the temp gets up to 90'C, then let it Cool (probably 2hrs or so) and do the topping off procedure as a compete drain and especially if you drained the Cooler lines can get air into the system and the Cooler lines don't open (thermostat) until 90'C so you need to get it hot to get the Thermostat open and then let it cool so you can re-check the level. Porsche addresses this in the shop manual section 37 02 35 CHECKING AND TOPPING UP THE ATF. I would say as a minimum now that you've driven it just re-check the level again and call it good. You saved a lot of money by doing this yourself and that is always good.

Stueysv8s, are you saying you pulled the SAI pumps plugged the lines and you don't get any codes? I did the same on my Audi and had to get some custom software to code out the SAI faults I was getting. That would be great if this wasn't required for the Cayenne. I do believe they are a real waste of space and don't really do much for emissions. Kind of a complicated way of beating the stupid emissions testing procedure as all of that extra equipment of the SAI system only works for a minute or two on a Cold startup to get extra O2 to the Catalytic converters for warmup on the Cold start.

So srfdrew, how did you measure the trans temp? I do it with Durametric or Vagcom from the ECU/TCU. Did you do it this way or with an IR temp gauge like others? I think it would be fine if slightly over filled but if it was under filled many times they will shift a little strange.

I feel your pain friend. I did my Coolant pipes back in '09~'10 ('06 CTTS) as a preventative when they came out with the Aluminum pipes but this was before we all started hearing about the plastic 'T's. Well, I knew I would need to do them sometime and just last week one of them started to leak so my manifold is off and I've ordered the parts. I've found that most of the plastic vacuum & vent lines have become hard as rock and one of them already cracked so I'll probably replace them while I'm in there. Mine dripping down off the sides of the transmission. As another preventative, I drained the coolant right when I got home and poured some warm slightly soapy (mild dish detergent) water down the back of engine over the transmission. Heard the stories of the Coolant over time eating the T.C. seals so figured I'd wash off any coolant back there. Didn't want to take a chance. One Coolant Tee completely broken, only some pressure from the hoses pushing it together.

I think the Turbo S intake manifold and throttle body are the same as 2003~2006 regular Turbos. As far as the engine is concerned, I'm pretty sure the Turbo S only got the bigger Intercoolers and different ECU (factory Tune).

I also replaced my original .05 revision ('06CTTS) coils (2 occasional misfires) less than 2yrs ago with new .09 coils & plugs, granted I had the new .09 coils for 6 months but two new revisions (.20 and now .21) since then? Can't they seem to get them right or are they actually making them better? I know Audi & VW (VAG) have had coil problems in the past but I they have went through 2 or 3 revisions with some models, not even close to this many.

I would use Stainless Band clamps long before resorting to using U-bolt clamps. Both Porsche & Audi use band clamps on many of their cars.