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deilenberger
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Everything posted by deilenberger
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2004 S Starter noise
deilenberger replied to Gusfan's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Find one of the numerous DIY threads on the coolant pipes - the air intake manifold must come off for that job. It will be illustrated. I'd suggest getting new manifold gaskets before starting the job as you're are going on 10 years old. -
Unwrap the harness working back from the injector until you expose the damaged part.. then fix it.
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You can pop the top cover off that ductwork with your fingernails.. it's not hard to do at all. Compress the duct sides a bit beneath the cover and pull the cover straight up. There are bunches of wires in the duct.. if you see any green fuzz you likely have found your problem. It's then a project of splicing the wiring to eliminate the bad junctions.
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I suspect the damage would be much less than bashing it with a sledge hammer as some people seem to be doing, or wedging a cold chisel in between the surfaces. The bashing seems particularly bad - there is an excellent chance of dinging a bearing race in the differential input shaft - and that will lead to failed bearings. The amount of force put in the bolts - not LOOSE but loosened will not be enough to damage a steel flange.
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foged up interior
deilenberger replied to gllever's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Check under your carpet for wet. The thick foam padding Porsche used can be soaked and you'll never know it from above. The clue is the symptom you describe.. Get back to us with the location you find the water in - and we may be able to point you to which drain is plugged up.. -
Ummm... has anyone tried loosening the bolts (not removing them) and then starting the P!G and putting it in D and R a few times with the brake on (and making sure if it moves it doesn't hit anything)? That works well for getting wheels that are seized on the hub off.. the rotary motion seems to gently break the joint free, and the bolts keep it from falling apart.
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Good photos.. The kink in the blue hose - last photo - sure could cause some backup, especially if some crud got caught in it. You might be able to straighten it out if you can get the hose out of the fitting and shorten it by 1/4" or so - or use some coathanger wire and electrical tape to make it run straight. Is that the side that's backing up? And have you blown out the hoses? I do seem to recall mention of these hoses (which I believe run down the C-pillar) coming disconnected about where the rear-hatch struts attach in the roof, apparently there is a joint there..
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I hope the photos make it clearer -- I can't envision what you're describing. The sunroof has a sort of dam around the inside opening. This is supposed to capture any water that gets past the actual exterior seal (and some always will..) and channel it to the drains where it drains off to the ground. My drain looked fine from the inside - it was plugged up in the bottom of the channel the dam makes.. ie - outside. Could only see this by standing up in the truck with the sunroof open, and shining a very bright MagLight at the drain location. Then I saw the crud blocking it. The water would fill up the drain part of the dam and when it got high enough flow over the lip into the interior of the car. I'd check this before looking at replacing the sunroof seal itself (which is going to be an ugly and labor intensive job and isn't likely to solve your problem.)
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See if you can borrow someone's standard cellar dehumidifier - and plop it in the rear cargo area overnight plugged in. If you pull the carpet up along the edges of the sill and stick some wood blocks under the foam to hold it off the floorpan that will speed things along. When I had water in the foam, I stuck large folded towels under the foam and then pressed down on the carpet to compress the foam and let the towels suck up the water. It took several times before water stopped flowing out of the foam. I didn't see mention in the things you did - the sunroof drains. You really DO want to make sure those are clear since they can run water down into the carpeting and you'll never see it unless you disassemble the A pillar trim like I did.. The photos should make it a fairly easy job to do..
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And you know otherwise how? The computers are not linked for non-warranty service repairs. Only repairs/service that is done as part of warranty service is in the central Porsche computer system. This is standard for all the euro car brands I know of. Each dealer keeps record of service done at their dealership - but has no access to anything except warranty repair records if there is work done at other dealerships.
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Just a suggestion.. those look a lot like the sensors BMW uses. BMW ones actually make an audible noise when they're working. Sounds like a cricket chirping. It is VERY faint, and obviously the system has to be activated to hear it. The one not making the noise is the bad one. A mechanics stethoscope (Harbor Freight - $3.99, often on sale for $2.99) will probably help a bunch in hearing them.
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I use it (and all my other vehicle diagnostic tools) with a 6 year old Dell Netbook. Works just fine. I imagine you could find a used one for less then $100 if you looked..
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Harbor Freight sells a quite competent fuel-pressure kit for around $35. The investment is only one time, and the kit can be used many times. It will be WAY less then having a mechanic do the test.
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Actually - yes, you're wrong. They never put the aluminum pipes in, and even the ones made today use a resin based pipe system (supposedly a much better and less prone to exploding design.) The aluminum pipe setup was only sold as replacement parts. The class action is for 2003-2006 V8 Cayennes (S and Turbo.)
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The spring loaded hose clamps seem to be a weak point on Cayennes. Dunno why Porsche so loves them (easy to assemble? Cheap? Both?) Back when my P!G was smelling of coolant with no easy source spotted the dealer replaced most of the hoses and the clamps. Didn't fix anything because that's not where the leak was. A screw clamp is a good replacement. Use a quality one. For sure Porsche didn't. BTW - one of my power steering hoses to the power-steering cooler was dribbling at the rubber/metal junction. Same sort of crappola clamp. Added a second screw clamp. Leak gone. Sometimes two is better than 1, especially if you can locate the second one on the flare in the metal tubing (it's usually right upstream of the spring clamp.)
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That's still a serpentine belt. It's just a two sided one. A "V" belt cross-section is shaped like.. ummm.. guess what - a "V".. it isn't flat.
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I have the Dension - works fine with iPod, blue-tooth music from my Android phone, and USB stick. Also works fine as hands-free phone bluetooth. There are some settings Dension doesn't talk a lot about to set the gain on the phone/interface for the mic and the speakers.
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Just a crude test (if it's like BMW's systems) - when park-assist is on if you have good ears you can hear the sensors. Put your ears right up against them and listen. Good ones sound like a cricket.. bad ones sound like nothing.
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It's not NAV - since nav has nothing in that area, could be phone though..
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Certain GM engines (Corvette for instance) had similar problems. GM's fix was cellulose pellets in the coolant. Most NAPA parts stores even know what you need if you say it's to seal up a Corvette cooling system. The cellulose just circulates with the coolant in the absence of air. When it sees air (as when it's passing through the porous casting) it becomes hard and wood like again. That seals the leak. Cost is about $4.. and since you have nothing to lose, it's certainly worth the gamble. And for the people worried about it plugging up the radiator or coolant passages - reread how it works. That just doesn't happen.
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Several sponsoring vendors sell the complete kit from Porsche - with the firmware update disk and the latest navigation disk. Cost is around $300. It's a simple DIY.
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Assuming they didn't have a specific compressor for the turbo.. it's a Denso compressor and from photos/descriptions on the Interwebz does have a magnetic electronic clutch on it. http://www.automotix.net/usedautoparts/2006-porsche-cayenne-ac_compressor-product-g62916448h.html?gclid=CLfO_svH4bcCFYWe4AodEE0AzQ http://www.discountacparts.com/addtocart~year~2006~make~Porsche~model~Cayenne~descript~A-C_Compressor~part~60-01801.asp
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If you go into the heater control and press the ECON button - it turns the AC compressor off. I believe it does this by disengaging an electronic clutch on the front of the compressor. As long as the pully is turning freely you should be able to drive it.. Can someone confirm the compressor has the electronic clutch?
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If it's an automatic - chances are it isn't an over-rev. The DME is smart enough to not downshift into a gear that would cause an over-rev.. even in TipTronic mode. I seem to recall cylinder #5 being the problem one for the wall coating breaking down, or the ring scoring the cylinder wall..
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Kamil, First pull over to send the emails.. :) We don't want to lose you to an accident caused by trying to write an email while driving. Then I'd take it back to the shop that did the starter replacement. As others have mentioned - the manifold must be removed (along with other intake system lines) to R&R the starter. It seems more than a coincidence that the bad idle - and codes for intake leaks - started after that job was done. They either installed something wrong (like the intake manifold gaskets - they reused them? I would replace them with new), or cracked one of the hard plastic air-lines, or left something disconnected causing your intake air leaks. The smoke test wvicary suggests (where smoke is pressurized into the intake manifold and you look to see where it's escaping) will show you what is leaking quickly. Don't get distracted by mention of PVC valves when chances are - the real cause was a poorly done job when the starter was replaced. Diagnostics based on guesses and parts replacement can become quite expensive quite quickly.