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Jager

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Everything posted by Jager

  1. Jager
    Glad you found the problem... Was it the hose connection identified in the attached photo?
  2. Jager
    Try moving the oil fill tube (shown in picture #6 of your last post) while the motor is running... Can you hear a change in motor RPMs or vacuum leak?
  3. Jager
    Yep, no major work on the motor other than replacing the water pump twice, IMS bearing twice, AOS four times, flywheel, clutch, motor mount and rear main seal. Motor going strong and no oil leaks! I change the oil every 4k to 5k miles and drive it pretty hard every day.
  4. Jager
    I don't track my Boxster and I don't have the low temp thermostat... I have 264k miles on my Boxster. BTW I have changed the water pump twice, a 10mm deep well socket, 1/4" drive, will be your friend.
  5. Jager
    Yes you will have to clear the codes, they will not clear automatically. If the codes come back AOS is suspect. When you remove the oil fill cap (warm engine) does the oil fill tube sound like a shop vac? Did the RPMs drop (look a tach)? With engine idle and oil cap on, idle revs from 690 to 730 or so. With oil cap removed while engine idles, revs fluctuate from 640 to 800 or so. AOS is probably OK... Clear the codes and see if they come back.
  6. Jager
    Yes you will have to clear the codes, they will not clear automatically. If the codes come back AOS is suspect. When you remove the oil fill cap (warm engine) does the oil fill tube sound like a shop vac? Did the RPMs drop (look a tach)?
  7. Jager
    There are a couple of Evaporative Control System valves for controlling vacuum and shutoff... Could it be the valves you are hearing? I hear mine operate all the time when sitting at a traffic light.
  8. Jager
    Been there... Done that... Heard that sound before... Water pump is bad.
  9. Jager
    I recommend installing the clutch slave cylinder before mating the transaxle to the motor completely. Give yourself a little gap between the transaxle and the motor and install the slave cylinder, then tighten the tansaxle/motor bolts. Otherwise you will be fighting the pushrod of the slave cylinder while trying to insert the slave cylinder mounting bolt.
  10. Jager
    The picture of the red handle locking tool is the one I took when I did my IMS bearing replacement. Yes I did remove the red handle by unscrewing it so I could get the locking pin in-place. I put the handle back on the end just for the picture so you could easily see the tool.
  11. Jager
    AOS is suspect... What happens when you remove the oil fill cap while the motor is running (warmed-up at idle)? Removed the oil cap at idle and running temperature. Some rough idle but not to the point where the car would stall. Look at the RPMs after you remove the oil fill cap, did the RPMs drop or increase? If the RPMs drop, the motor stuggles to idle, and the oil fill tube sounds like a Shop Vac, then the AOS needs to be replaced. If the RPMs actually increase a little then your AOS is probably OK.
  12. Jager
    Can you provide more details on question #1? What do you mean by erratic?
  13. Jager
    Be careful on the length of the bolt... If it's too long it will puncture through the crankcase and bad things happen. I believe this is why it is missing in many vehicles.
  14. Jager
    AOS is suspect... What happens when you remove the oil fill cap while the motor is running (warmed-up at idle)?
  15. Jager
    Loren, CDR 210 - W5024888 Thanks Jager
  16. Jager
    Did you read the procedure to have it display on the radio in the Lost Radio Code FAQ? He had the procedure for the 220 and it made no sense for the 210. We continued the work and disconnected the power knowing we could get to the decal on the side of the radio but as you can see a couple digits are hard to read. If you click on the photo it increases size making it easier to view. I am guessing the number is W5024388 or W5024888. From the Lost Radio Code FAQ... "CR-210: Press tone, then 8 and 0 simultaneously. "Becker" appears. Press station up arrow on right. "PR-VERS" appears. Press one of numbered buttons below display, directly below the LCD arrowheads (try a few). The model number will appear. Press station up arrow on right. "SERIAL N" will appear. Press the numbered button again. The serial number will appear. Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label." So this works after the power was disconnected... Hmm... So we got W5024888.
  17. Jager
    Did you read the procedure to have it display on the radio in the Lost Radio Code FAQ? He had the procedure for the 220 and it made no sense for the 210. We continued the work and disconnected the power knowing we could get to the decal on the side of the radio but as you can see a couple digits are hard to read. If you click on the photo it increases size making it easier to view. I am guessing the number is W5024388 or W5024888.
  18. Jager
    Loren, Hard to read a couple digits on this one (see attached photo). A friends 97 Boxster, we had to remove the alternator and disconnected the battery... Help! Thanks Jager
  19. Jager
    Using your Durametric capture the voltage levels of your O2 sensors in front of the catalytic converters, during a cold start with the Secondary Air Pump running (you will have to be quick to start the motor and start the Durametric program), the voltage should be very low and flat-line. If the voltage is not flat line what kind of sine wave/pattern do you have (copy screen and post the graph so we can see)?
  20. Jager

    Yes, I am actually a Jäger, knighted in Germany November 1981.

  21. Jager
    Bill, I sent you a Private Message
  22. Jager
    Hi Bill, Do you have a photo of the tool you made?
  23. Jager
    Motor mount and/or flywheel can cause the vibration at 3000 RPMs. The flywheel is a dual-mass unit that starts to fail after time/mileage.
  24. Jager
    I also have a 2001 Boxster and purchased the Durametric system about 3 years ago. Not only did it pay for itself in a very short period of time, it's enjoyable to use because you will learn many more things about your car. BTW I have over 232,000 mile on my Boxster, original motor, no major work other than upgrading the IMS bearing at 204,000 miles.
  25. Jager
    What does the seal on your gas cap look like?
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