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clarksongli
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Everything posted by clarksongli
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Are we sure we're talking about the intercooler hose or the breather hose....an updated intercooler hose may be true...but it has nothing to do with how the oil gets into the air stream.....oil comes from either the turbo bearing seal or the breather hose....99% of the time it seems to be the breather -
does the car temperature come up to normal temp quickly or in a 30min drive does the coolant temp stay low? that could be a thermostat or pump issue. the next question is do you hear the aux. electric pump kick on when you select heat? if not then you need to look at the pump/fuse
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i've had cvs go without a torn boot......lots of times the grease migrates and the joint runs dry.
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thanks....did the oem bushing make a noticeable difference in feel? no issues with the ball joints?
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So i have two torn FRONT rear lower control arm bushings....so i've got some options: 1. Replace the bushing with the turbo "hydraulic" bushing 2. Replace the bushing with the turbo s "solid rubber" bushing 3. Replace the entire arm with the stock turbo arm 4. Replace the entire arm with the turbo S arm The ball joints feel tight still, so it's hard for me to justify replacing the full arms considering the bushings are <30 bucks.....vs. hundreds for arms. The other wild card are the "OEM" kits on ebay these days.....i've put out some feelers to see who makes/reconditions these arms, but they are SIGNIFICANTLY less....so low that i could buy a set for 150 bucks, find out they're crap....and go and buy the OEM bushings.... Any help would be helpful.....my natural inclination is to upgrade upgrade upgrade.....but the hydro ones would probably work for the next 100k as well.
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oil consumption is related to ring seal.... i agree with hahnmgh63.....the problem with short low throttle driving is you tend to build deposits in the ring lands and sometimes can cause the scraper rings to hang up. Longer rides tend to run a more stable AFR helping clean up those deposits. The other thing that helps are power bursts at higher RPMs. That being said....(knock on woood) but i drive stop and go and i burn exactly 1 quart every 5k miles.....somehow i've always been way less than most others and even what the manual says.....i have 115k on the clock these days too. Must of had a good break in...
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so i have a thule setup since i got everything for 40 bucks.....i <3 dumb people on craigslist. but for bikes 100% go for a hitch setup. i have a 50lb DH rig and i'm 5'5"....way easier to just put it on the hitch saris carrier. If you aren't towing....you won't even need to get the tow module or harness....
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Brakes squeaking
clarksongli replied to 4x4's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
squealing is almost always due to poorly bedded pads. glazed rotors and an uneven transfer layer will always squeal. Bed them in....progressively faster stops to just above fully stopped. By the end the brakes should feel faded from heat and probably stink/smoke. Drive it around without stopping to ensure they cool back to operating temp. i have this problem every time i swap back to my street pads on my track car because the pads are relatively hard/less cut on the rotor....going TO track pads is easy because they are much more aggressive and cut much more. -
so i'm a type iv guy.....but that being said redline is a synthetic....type iv is not a true synthetic.....i start to wonder about compatibility with bushing/bearing/seals. that being said, i know plenty of people running D4 without any reported issues. Personally type 4 is so cheap, you can change it whenever you want to with little impact cost wise. I'll post up the UOAs when i get a chance.....some interesting things i found with the OEM fluid, which might point to why we have valve body issues.....stay tuned.
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only reason i would say it isn't the front diff is because it happens only when turning. the front diff is always spinning around.....regardless of turning
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I burn exactly 1 quart every 5k. Keep track of the oil consumption....comparing car to car doesn't tell much....but oil change to oil change will...As long as it's not increasing that's a good sign. As for oil type.....stick with the 40....you went the opposite way....Hot temps require a higher number. This is probably also adding to your oil consumption. Now to the black exhaust.....oil burning is a contributor....but so is running rich....If you have a lot of smoke, it might have a blue tint to it.....you might have a bad o2 or maf sensor.
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Ask them how they know the "microprocessor" is blown. First off the word microprocessor is very vague. Ask them if they replace the pcm and it doesn't fix the problem are they going to eat the cost....I'm bet their story will change. Bottom line is you hit the nail on the head.....they have no clue what root cause is....they just guess....and this goes for most dealerships. You are paying them for a fix....not a bunch of guesses and new parts....If they don't fix the problem then why should you pay? Ask them to prove to you this will fix the problem.
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I'm glad i could help. Yes unfortunately today they provide little to no instructions or science behind bedding and building that transfer layer on the rotor....or even how to read the rotor for signs of no bedding or uneven bedding. The other problem today is they sell stuff called "pre scortched" which essentially means nothing to the user as bedding is still 100% required....just means they won't offgas as much smelly bad stuff. Either way, good luck.....with big brakes and venting/slotting/drilling, it becomes increasingly difficult to get enough heat in the pads to effectively bed them.....it approaches a somewhat unsafe level on the streets because you need so much room to accelerated and hard brake just to get heat in the system.
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Agreed with one exception...Just because they don't carry a n rating doesn't meet they don't meet the spec....It means the company never bothered to submit for testing. I'm sure there are tires out there that would qualify...but to your point we just don't know for sure
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Based on my experience in the automotive and aerospace industries....it's 100% marketting....Just look at the stats. ...porsche sold 35 thousand cars last year roughly in the us....out of 17 million total us sales? There are very few reasons a company would chose to invest heavily in such a niche market....to show the market they to have the technology to be approved by porsche. More than likely they take a loss on the investment in the understanding other sales will increase. Another example is iso 9000 or 14000....there are numerous studies done saying there is a very weak correlation between quality and the certification in today's world....It becomes a selling point that companies use to gather market traction. The very fact we are having the discussion only proves the n rated tire investments are doing their job Again I think spool time and I are on the same page....non n and n tires are both good....Just something to consider
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So i can 100% tell you that non of the discount tires are on this list.....reason being they simply don't want to spend the money to qualify them with Porsche. While i do believe Auto MFG Engineers do the analysis to validate the designs of the 3rd party supplier, you have to remember that this "validation" is mostly marketing and cost driven. This is why you will see only big name companies qualify with auto manufacturing. This is also why you will see items that were once qualified, drop off the list.....they either failed, or did not think it was worth recertifying. So take the Porsche "seal of approval" with a grain of salt.
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my guess is one is the standard V8 and the other is shte GTS/Transyberia......which came with 405hp. The swap, i'm guessing, is going to require the correct ECU with engine, not to mention the immobilizer will need to match, meaning the cluster and whatever "porsche stuff" is used You then also have to realize the flywheel and pressure plate/clutch will need to be exchanged for the starter wheel and torque converter setup. Long story, probably easier to find the correct V8.
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No i bought the used wheels with the michelins The one negative i still come back to is the noise. NEW they won't be terrible, but as the tread wears it will get louder.....it's loud enough to hear in the car while driving. Like knobby offroad tires. Like i said, i'm looking to buy another tire for next season. I will be looking for an alternative if possible within the same price point.
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no there will be plenty of life in the cayenne after the fix. Personally though, that isn't a very good deal. being realistic, by the time they yank the motor, do the engine work, and reinstall, you're going to be into this project many thousands of dollars. It'd probably be cost neutral to just find a second block and not waste the time on all the machine work time. Second point is just the price point. 14,500 for a cayenne that is essentially not running well? and a regular CS? I say it's more hassle than it's worth. but that's just my two cents. IF you really want to do this, consider doing a full up performance build. To do the cylinder and sleeve work they are going to pull the crank and other cylinders anyways....perfect time for ceramic coated domes, and other performance goodies to run big power.
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Oh yeah the snow performance was good....The wide blocks clear snow much better than a standard all season meaning they pack up less with snow. I live on a pretty steep hill that climbs for about 1/2 mile....even in several inches I can still drive up it AND tow my neighbors. I did have an issue once where I was offroad coming in at a really shallow angle to a ridge of ice.....The side bite on the tire just wasn't enough for the cayenne to roll up and over....ended up having to reverse out of the trail. All this being said...they still are all seasons and cautious driving will be your friend. When the snow is to the bumpers I still rely on my snows to get me around. I'm actually down to the wear bars now...and I'm excited to get some quieter tires haha....they do seem to get louder the lower the tread gets for some reason. I got about 30 K on the tires....Pretty good for a heavy suv. Btw...I bought a set of wheels with the same tires back in the day....maybe a bit more than 50% the tires had not dry rotted and were in good shape....I drove them for over a season until two were cut up by a piece of metal on the road. That's when I got the stx
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Alev8. ..get a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. It should read around 45psig....The reason I say this is because if it goes way high....like 90psig....you got a hose hooked up wrong. .Hence the hose blowing off. If you have the right pressure inspect the little barb on the fuel filter....perhaps the plastic is damaged. Have you tried putting the old filter back in to see if it's the line or the filter?
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10 liters is a lot. To answer your question the other source could be the oil cooler....and its steaming off during drives. I'd start with the head gasket. Assuming no external leaks are found. Pull the plugs after you come home and let it sit....then check the cylinders in the morning for fluid in the cylinders. ...and gain 10 liters is a lot so it should be visible. ...internally or externally.
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I actually had the chance to do just want you said, i grabbed the actuator lever and moved it around, and hung onto it when the servo actuated. The flaps and linkages don't bind (at least in my case). My best guess is as the servos get gunked up inside from use and constant travel between the same sweep....the internal resistance must change (or something simlar) causing the ecu controlling them to code a fault. My guess is there is an allowable current limit to the servos....when they exceed the limit, it codes a fault.
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Yeah...listen to this guy....he sounds legit.... Most all of these tire manufacturers are going to have DOT certificates. again i personally would probably not chance it considering a kuhmo or yoko is only a few bucks more.....but these tires are all over the place, and probably have millions of miles of experience now, so i'd think it's a safe bet to say they are not 100% terrible. Something to keep in mind is the large purchasing population buying these tires are ones on a tight budget with junker cars....so you can only imagine the bad suspension, misaligned wheels, unbalance bent wheels, and lack of pothole avoidance.....perhaps they are fairly rugged? I'd like to hear from more folks running these tires....seems like the two so far haven't had terrible experiences with them so far.