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royxaxa

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Everything posted by royxaxa

  1. I had problem with O2 sensor at bank 2 after the cat. I used some fuel system cleaner additive then the problem was gone for a while. but it came back to me after about 6 month. so I changed the O2 sensor and everything was okay. But on my trip to Boston last Christmas I had some 93 gas with 10% Ethanol then the code came back again! after I returned to Toronto everything was fine, crazy. however I noticed that the 91 and 94 we have here do not contain ANY ethanol. also I recalled that the first time I had the code jumping back and forth was on my trip to NYC and Chicago and all 93 gas has ethanol there. i am not sure this would help but that was my experience anyways.
  2. did you snap the short piece off the Y? in that case you need to replace the Y instead of the vent pipe, right? I am pretty sure you can only order the whole line.
  3. it could be pretty hot in summer days here in Toronto. The tapping sound has been there since I have the car. mine is 04 CTT not direct injection so it is a little loud for me. my wife's 03 audi TT is kinda loud too LOL. maybe i am just too picky
  4. Darrin, 40 C Christmas is awesome. we just had another 2 inches of snow this afternoon. my 04CTT hits 200k Km at Christmas night on the highway to Boston, MA. man they have some decent highway there. smooth as butter even when I was doing 150km/h I've been reading a lot about 5W50 and it seems a lot of turbo guys are using them. plus I think M 1 5W50 is in the approved list. I change my oil every 8000km, roughly. thanks for the response guys Roy
  5. I am with wvicary. I had to refill coolant at 3 different occations: replacing the T, replacing the expansion tank, and replacing the water pump. all that I did was run the car and fill up coolant if necessary. it seems that air comes out pretty fast.
  6. well the thing is I am located in Canada. winter here could be pretty cold in -20 C range. I would probably stick to 0wX or 5wX oils. but getting a UOA is a good idea instead of guessing around thanks guys
  7. i see what you mean JFP my CTT engine has a bit of tapping noise and I noticed that on all other CTTs that I've ever seen. maybe 5 of them. so what about 5W50 oil?I thought thicker oil is better for high mileage engines I did notice when I switched from M 1 0w40 to Liqui Moly 5W40, my p!g burns far less oil. thanks
  8. my 04 CTT is 205k Km now I am thinking about using either 4W40 with Lucas Oil stabilizer or 5W50 It seems that it works very well with some high mileage cars but I do not see any response regarding the application on CTTs thanks
  9. no i replaced the carrier/plate before without removing bumper nor the wheel liner it is pretty tight there but still possible.
  10. No only the 2.1 head unit. No DVD drive under passenger seat. I do not really care about the navi function. I did not buy the DVD drive with the 2.1 head unit. I know there are people did the retrofit. U can find the details on one if the forums. I also checked with dealer they told me it is not really worth the labor cost.
  11. I had the same situation my 04 CTT's PCM 2.0 gave up on me, and I replaced it with a PCM2.1 head unit from a 05 CS. just plug it in and thats it; did not even have to go to dealer to reprogram it cuz i guess my 04 model does not provide security feature to lock the radio. everything works except the navi. for the cost and trouble, I would just get a decent GPS for a fraction of the price. or change the whole system to aftermarket ones like Kenwood, it has EVERYTHING you could ask for. hope that helps
  12. i havd a kit from VW dealer if thats the one you are looking for includes a pistion ring and two bolts and instrution booklet
  13. if you ever gonna replace the alternator, replace the timing chain tensioner too. it is right beside it and only costs $70 bucks or so for parts.
  14. IPD plenum comes with a new o-ring if my memory serves me right
  15. it is water cooled. last time i saw it was during my timing chain replacement. we took bumper and radiator off. no an easy job. starter is under the intake mani and the coolant pipes. no need to remove the bumper and front end. why do you think you need to replace them??
  16. I am not sure you could get a direct visual of the "T" from above or under the car. I replaced my T after same incident as you described. the part number is p/n: 955-106-323-50 good luck.
  17. it is pretty hard to reach. i do not think there is much of an "instruction" to follow after you removed the manifold. all you need to do is just to reach it and there are 3 clamps. i used the special tools with a cable and a catch thing at one end, this way you can extend the catch down to the clamps. to make it worse, it is pretty hard to get a visual down there.
  18. I had code 1810 and passenger side vents(both centre and side one) blow cold air while I want warm air. so I bought the servo motor from dealer and replaced it today. It took me about 3 hours since I did not have a proper tool for the Torx screws. you need a low profile ratchet wrench. couple of things I thought it might be helpful in the future for other people since it seems to be a common problem and I did not see very clear information online: the servo motor comes in the "service position" mentioned in the manual already. there is no need to adjust it. there is no "service positon" for the flap since it is just a simple mechanical flap with a spring that holds it back if you really want to adjust the servo motor position, according to the service manual, and I tried it myself, just hook up a 12V DC power supply (*do NOT use car battery, the current will kill the motor) to the leads(which shows in the picture, the bottom 2, not the 3 ones goes to the blue positioning thingy). reverse the power supply will reverse the rotation. do not over turn the servo motor since it has a range. I did not see any metal contact surface in the motor for positioning signal, not like some older models, so I suppose it is not "serviceable" by rubbing clean the contact surfact. I did not remove the retaining plate as manual stated but I did removed the heat exchanger bottom cover, glove box and all that. Hope that helps. I will replace the defroster flap servo next week. thats on the left side, I guess will be tougher.
  19. i changed my wheel bearing for rear left side in spring time. the torque setting for those things are crazy high. i could not find any torque wrench capable for that. but man the car is solid like a rock.
  20. I bought my 04CTT for $20k more than a year ago. I replaced quite a few parts here and there, but nothing major. only big job was related to timing. I calibrated the timing since one bank was off by 15 degree and changed timing chain(call me crazy but the new one is about 1/4" shorter than the old one and one chain guide cracked) as well as whole bunch of other parts (cuz I was there. lol). it costs about $2k for parts and some pizza and beer. if you could do some research and carry out some mechanic work yourself, you can't go wrong with this truck. if you expect dealer to fix all the problems in the future, I would not touch this car(in fact probably all EU lux cars out of warranty) hope that helps
  21. I am having problem with AC system of 04CTT squeaky noise behind PCM unit even when HVAC system is off 2 vents on passenger side(one on center, one on side) blows cold air when I want warm Durametric gives the following codes: 2101 servo motor for side blower 1810 drive motor for temperature valve right 710 servo motor for defrost flap I did some research with servo motors for the HVAC unit, can someone point out which one refers to the one that makes error code 2101? I could figure out the ones that are responsible for 1810(955 624 908 01) and 710 (955 624 901 01) but if someone can verify for me that will be great. thanks guys here is a link of the view http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/9PA-03-06/813-45.php
  22. wow. one of the best instructions I've ever seen. professional lighting. awesome!
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