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Dharn55

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Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. Dharn55
    Those are the numbers for the VarioCam advance mechanisms, which are also a "type of Tensioner" but not what we are talking about. The numbers you are looking for are as follows: 1-3 original Part # 996.105.179.58 superseded to 996.105.186.01 List $95.86, Discount $72.98, Pelican $49.97. $97.25 4-6 original part # 996.105.176.51 superseded ti 996.105.188.01 List $116.26. Discount 88.83. Pelican $60.06 $117.75 Sorry I had the Pelican prices wrong. When I entered the original part number it gave the new part number but had an old price. When I searched on the new part number the corrected price came up. You can see that sources like Sunset, Suncoast and Sonnen are less.
  2. Dharn55
    As you can see from my earlier posts I have had some concern on this too. But to date the only post I have seen regarding a problem with the use of the old IMS to crank tensioner is rb101's. Both LN Engineering and Flat 6 have said they use the new one, and on JFP in PA says they have experience in using the new ones. I still haven't ordered mine but I am tending to go with the newer style. I like the idea of having "spring" tension before the oil pressure fills the tensioner. Also a little clarification. the original tensioner part number was 99..105.180.54 and that is still listed in PET as the part for -00. Also, I just looked it up on Porscheoemparts.com (Sonnen Porsche) and the list price is $70.54 with a discounted price of $53.70. Not sure of availability. Pelican shows it at $71.50. Where did you see $1K? The latest IMS chain tensioner part number is 996.105.180.56, Same prices.
  3. Dharn55
    If you don't have a dash switch and never want the quiet mode you could remove the relay. You could also disconnect the wires at the switch over valve in the engine compartment..This would probably be the simplest and easily reversible.
  4. Dharn55
    Doug - I think that is where a hose form the AOS connects.
  5. Dharn55
    Vacuum tank, on that side it should be for a PSE.
  6. Dharn55
    If there is no continuity on the seat bottom leads then you have a problem. Not real expensive or very hard to replace per the Vogel article. There is also a relay that can go bad, but if there is no continuity that is probably your problem.
  7. Dharn55
    The cam solenoid seal/plates hold on with two bolts, 7.5 ftlbs. torque. The latest part number is 996.105.244.03 and they list for $8.31@ so about $6.33 at Sunset or Suncoast. Right and Left are the same. Once you get access it is pretty easy to remove them, but to get access you may have to take the wheels off. Just the two bolts, but there is the wire to each. This is a simple plug on the other end but can be difficult to reach it. You have to undo the wire if you want to replace the seal/plate. Mine had leaked once the the indy I used had put what look like JB Weld or epoxy on them to seal them. When I did my engine work I did not replace them but used some Permatex copper RTV silicone sealant. If you want to try this just loosen the bolts and slide the plate off the solenoid, put a bead on RTV on the reddish seal on the plate and slide them back on. Works like a charm, actually better than the seals themselves IMHO. Here are some old pictures of the left side.
  8. Dharn55
    Carpet just slips behind them and under the piece along the top edge of the carpet. You should be able to just pull it out.
  9. Dharn55
    What exactly do you need to replace. Take a look at the attached parts diagram. The tensioner pulley itself, #8, is 996.102.117.57 (the latest version part number). But are you sure it is the pulley. There is also the arm, #3, dust boots (#7) and the tensioner itself, #2. tensioner .pdf
  10. Dharn55
    The air box is still sitting on the shelf in my workroom. If I install it I am going to just leave the vacuum line/valve unconnected. The default position is open, and on the 996 there is no valve, it is always open.
  11. Dharn55
    There are a couple of hoses in that area and a plate on the engine which has a gasket that can fail. You need to get the car up high enough so that you can see what is leaking.
  12. Dharn55
    You need a set of hose clamp pliers to remove the OEM hose clamps. Get the kind shown here with the cable, make it much easier to get a hard to reach locations, and there are lots of these clamps in awkward places. I recommend replacing the spring type hose clamps with screw type. Many owners say not to use anything but the Porsche OEM coolant. Myself I use Peak 50/50, but I did draian and flush my entire system. There is some who say mixing the coolants can cause the OEM coolant to jell. The Porsche coolant is ridiculously expensive. Once you have replaced the hose you will need to bleed the air out of the system. I use a vacuum bleeder, but there is a bleeder on the top of the reservoir. Are you sure that the hose you have marked in red is a coolant hose? I would look on my car but it is dark outside. However, in all the work I have done I don't remember that as being a coolant hose.
  13. Dharn55
    Do your have the HiFi option with the speakers in the doors?
  14. Dharn55
    I am not familiar with the adaptive sport seats. Are the controls on the side like the 996 power seats? If so I am thinking that somehow power is not getting to these functions. I would look at the wiring diagrams and connectors for a 996 and compare them to the 997 ones. I have the ones for the 996 but not for the 997 so I can't compare.
  15. Dharn55
    I have the diagram you want but for some reason I can't attach the PDF file to this post. If you PM me with an email address I will be happy to send it to you.
  16. Dharn55
    I think you would be doing a service to all members by disclosing who sold the wheels. It the seller has a defense then they can present it. Otherwise they will have the chance to do something like this again to another buyer.
  17. Dharn55
    PM me your email address and I can send you some info and diagrams for making most of the tools you will need.
  18. Dharn55
    As I remember, underneath the cap is a screen. In all the times I have replaced pads with spreading the calipers I have not drained fluid from the reservoir. I just loosened the cap and put a rag over the top in case there was any spillage. If the fluid is all the way at the top you might need to remove some, but not if it is as the full mark.
  19. Dharn55
    Michelin is coming out with a PS3. I wonder if this is effecting the availability of the PS2.
  20. Dharn55
    Did you remove the half shafts from the wheel carriers or did you pull them out of the differential. You need to make sure that the shafts are all the way into the differential so that the races are into the seals. Otherwise you will have differential fluid spraying all over and the differential will be low in fluid. Take off the body pan and have a good look at the differential.
  21. Dharn55
    The latest versions of PET also have a function to print out info based on VIN number. If you want to post yours, or PM me I can run the report for you.
  22. Dharn55
    I don't think anyone pays lists, or if they do they are being taken advantage of. Suncoast and Sunset sell the engines at attractive discounts. The challenge might be finding a dealer to install the Porsche engine that will give the discount. I think the engine has to be installed by a dealer for the warranty to be valid. Not sure on this though. At $18,000 you might as well go to Jake Raby and get one of his engines, they start at about $18,000. The challenge there is I think he has a 6 month waiting list.
  23. Dharn55
    Try some of the wreckers for a used one. Also do a search on eBay for both used and re manufactured ones. There are several listed at this time for less than $400. If you are reluctant to use eBay go directly to one of the companies that re-manufacture the units.
  24. Dharn55
    $100 for the Porsche tool that you might use once every 5 years or so is crazy. Go to your local marine supply store and get a transom plug like this for less than $5. Get the right size and they work just fine.
  25. Dharn55
    Sorry, it was 4=5 years ago that I did my sound system and I did not remember exactly how the amp was set up. I have the JL Audio E6450 and I went back and reviewed the manual today. It does have the ability to have 6 inputs, so if you have a head unit that outputs six separate signals it can be set up that way. It also has a "Sum Function" that allows you to sum the signals for channels 1-4 and output the low frequency signals to channels 5&6. This is the way I have mine set up as the OEM CDR220 only outputs 4 channels. For the dash speakers 2" might be tight but I think it wold work. Not real room or mounting spot for crossovers in the dash so I recommend mounting them in the truck and running new cables to the dash, the OEM wires only have two wires to each speaker and you will need four with the crossovers in the trunk..
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