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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Another vote for the V1. When the technology changes (hardware or software) it's upgradable or replaced by the vendor at a very reasonable price. I mounted it up by the rearview mirror and as JFP says there is a wire up there which can be accessed through the sunroof control panel, if memory serves, to hardwire it. The V1 even comes with the part(s) you need to do this right out of the box (or at least it did when I bought mine). Really the only way to get "caught" with the V1 is if you're hit with instant on, but in that case nothing's gonna stop it. The V1 also holds its value extremely well. When I wanted to sell mine in the past (moved to Manhattan where you can't drive over 20-30 mph under most circumstances) it sold on eBay for almost the same price I paid for it new. Heck of a deal. Good luck.
  2. I can recommend Stan and Gbox, they rebuilt my 996TT gearbox. If your mechanic has experience with this car pulling the gearbox it shouldn't be that bad. If memory serves I paid my indy under $1,000 in labor to get the gearbox in and out of the car. Regarding the second gear issue, are you aware of the detent? You won't really know the synchro is worn until they get into the box and obviously the detent wouldn’t help in that case. But if the case is otherwise, it's cheap and easy to install. Just wanted to let you know in case it's the issue. http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html I promise not to go off on a soap box diatribe but please, PLEASE, do not use anything but the OEM gear oil in this box. Don't listen to the all people that say Redline and Royal Purple are the same thing. Trust me, they ain't. When you get Stan on the phone ask him how he feels about it........
  3. maybe.....but if it is registered certainly makes the car more valuable all else equal
  4. You can google sprag clutch for even more info, but it's there to help allow the transmission to smoothly change gears under load. Tiptronics are not as likely to have abrupt RPM changes because it's the computer controlling the shifting, not a human, which is the reason it doesn't use the clutching pulley. Hope that helps.
  5. I believe only the manual uses the freewheel pulley version if you go by the book. That said, you probably don't need to worry, I don't think it would hurt it to use one on a tiptronic (although the reverse, using one without the freewheel pulley on a manual transmission, would be trouble).
  6. Agree, a quick 5 minute call to Durametric could shed a lot of light -- they are easy to reach and very helpful, so if this is a known bug I'm sure they can give you some useful info.
  7. If not for the VIN (extremely important when looking at a car), becoming a Contributing Member will pay for itself multiple times over in the information available on this site.
  8. Looks promising. Good work. Let us know when you establish pricing.
  9. Yes, winter tires are better to get earlier in the season. Possibly because they are more limited in production, it's difficult to find them in stock around this time of year in the middle of the winter (at least this has been the case in my own personal experience). For your purchase of the next set, try to get on it before winter hits and it should be easier to source the set you are looking for. Glad you got it sorted.
  10. Incorrect. The C4S and C2 have different wheels. The 996 C4S wheels, for example, will work on a 996 TT but not on a 996 C2. This is because the C4S and the TT are both a "wide-body style", while the C2 is not.
  11. You will need the Durametric OBD2 cable to use the software (costs under $300, very cheap considering everything it does and holds its resale value). You can clear the airbag fault using this. You won't be able to do it without a PST2/PIWIS or Durametric. Most generic bluetooth scanners like you are talking about cause more problems on these cars than they do good since they often give false signals as they do not know how to properly deal with the Porsche proprietary codes.
  12. Isn't Technik One in Hells Kitchen? They are doing mostly car stereo install, tints, and detailing types of work? You might want to consider someone that specifically does Porsche body work. As already stated, it's anyone's guess what the cost will be since pictures alone won't tell you much other than I can see it's a substantial amount of damage. I'm guessing it could be $5K+.
  13. np.... and btw, just by way of clarification, that link pertains to the M96 engine specifically, you have a Mezger as you stated you have a GT2 -- but irrespective of that, I still like the dual mass unless you use your car as a pure track car..........which it looks like you have already concluded anyway. :cheers:
  14. Sounds like a prudent plan. The improved responsiveness gained from switching to a SMFW is more than offset by the fact that you are subjecting yourself to risk. Gearbox rattle could be the least of the problems caused as, as you can see, when things go south it generally results in complete and utter disaster.
  15. Stick with the dual mass for sure. Read this: http://flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank
  16. Yes, $2,500 would be a ballpark figure for the labor only to do RMS, IMS, and clutch. No need to get worked up over the $17K figure, clearly that was for an engine replacement or rebuild.
  17. +1 for Dharn / Gbox. Gbox rebuilt my gearbox, much cheaper than buying a new one. I wouldn't consider having an independent garage fix it anyway, you need a specialist for this job.... I'm a bit surprised they even offered to do it. Most of the guys I know that are the best mechanics would pass on that and tell you to send it to Gbox. You can lose your shirt on a job like this if you don't know what you're doing, and not many people do.
  18. LN Engineering. I would contact them to see if they have distribution in the UK, else they may just ship it to you there (I send stuff to London all the time and it's not expensive if it doesn't weigh much).
  19. Right, but I wouldn't measure with a dipstick on a slope and trust that either. Sort of goes without saying that it's always best to measure when you're on a level surface.
  20. All very good points. I agree, completely depends on what you want....... I wouldn't worry too much about less resale value on the Cab. There is no evidence that I know of showing that's the case.
  21. I also moved from a C4S to a TT. The TT is a much better car in my opinion and worth way more than the differential between it and your C4S. I will get off my TT soap-box now. . . There are a number of considerations you should make if you are deciding between a convertible TT or not. Do you drive in the winter? A convertible top is more moving parts and can break. I personally did not even consider a convertible because I like to track and my home track does not allow convertibles for advanced events. Convertibles don't make great track cars in my opinion other than maybe all that wind helps keep you cool when you're banging on it on a 95 degree day and sweating like a rockstar. On the other hand it certainly has its advantages so it probably depends on what you value the most and what your driving situation is.
  22. The oil consumption tolerance on your engine is 1L per 1000km. Most cars probably won't consume that much, but that should give you a frame of reference. Monitoring your oil frequently is very important. I also mostly used the dipstick when I had a 996 but when I switched to a Turbo it only has the electronic gauge, no dipstick anymore, so it must do its job pretty well.
  23. If you do a search you will see plenty of information on oil consumption. No leaks is good. These cars consume oil. What you have stated, one bar in one month, is nothing to be alarmed about. I would frequently check your oil level and add oil as needed keeping the level above the minimum and below the maximum.
  24. I hope not. As you said, best thing would flush out the old fluid and replace with OEM fluid (sounded like you need this anyway).
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