Silver_TT

You can google sprag clutch for even more info, but it's there to help allow the transmission to smoothly change gears under load. Tiptronics are not as likely to have abrupt RPM changes because it's the computer controlling the shifting, not a human, which is the reason it doesn't use the clutching pulley. Hope that helps.

I believe only the manual uses the freewheel pulley version if you go by the book. That said, you probably don't need to worry, I don't think it would hurt it to use one on a tiptronic (although the reverse, using one without the freewheel pulley on a manual transmission, would be trouble).

Agree, a quick 5 minute call to Durametric could shed a lot of light -- they are easy to reach and very helpful, so if this is a known bug I'm sure they can give you some useful info.

If not for the VIN (extremely important when looking at a car), becoming a Contributing Member will pay for itself multiple times over in the information available on this site.

Looks promising. Good work. Let us know when you establish pricing.

Yes, winter tires are better to get earlier in the season. Possibly because they are more limited in production, it's difficult to find them in stock around this time of year in the middle of the winter (at least this has been the case in my own personal experience). For your purchase of the next set, try to get on it before winter hits and it should be easier to source the set you are looking for. Glad you got it sorted.

Incorrect. The C4S and C2 have different wheels. The 996 C4S wheels, for example, will work on a 996 TT but not on a 996 C2. This is because the C4S and the TT are both a "wide-body style", while the C2 is not.

You will need the Durametric OBD2 cable to use the software (costs under $300, very cheap considering everything it does and holds its resale value). You can clear the airbag fault using this. You won't be able to do it without a PST2/PIWIS or Durametric. Most generic bluetooth scanners like you are talking about cause more problems on these cars than they do good since they often give false signals as they do not know how to properly deal with the Porsche proprietary codes.

Isn't Technik One in Hells Kitchen? They are doing mostly car stereo install, tints, and detailing types of work? You might want to consider someone that specifically does Porsche body work. As already stated, it's anyone's guess what the cost will be since pictures alone won't tell you much other than I can see it's a substantial amount of damage. I'm guessing it could be $5K+.

np.... and btw, just by way of clarification, that link pertains to the M96 engine specifically, you have a Mezger as you stated you have a GT2 -- but irrespective of that, I still like the dual mass unless you use your car as a pure track car..........which it looks like you have already concluded anyway. :cheers:

Sounds like a prudent plan. The improved responsiveness gained from switching to a SMFW is more than offset by the fact that you are subjecting yourself to risk. Gearbox rattle could be the least of the problems caused as, as you can see, when things go south it generally results in complete and utter disaster.

Stick with the dual mass for sure. Read this: http://flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank

Yes, $2,500 would be a ballpark figure for the labor only to do RMS, IMS, and clutch. No need to get worked up over the $17K figure, clearly that was for an engine replacement or rebuild.

+1 for Dharn / Gbox. Gbox rebuilt my gearbox, much cheaper than buying a new one. I wouldn't consider having an independent garage fix it anyway, you need a specialist for this job.... I'm a bit surprised they even offered to do it. Most of the guys I know that are the best mechanics would pass on that and tell you to send it to Gbox. You can lose your shirt on a job like this if you don't know what you're doing, and not many people do.

LN Engineering. I would contact them to see if they have distribution in the UK, else they may just ship it to you there (I send stuff to London all the time and it's not expensive if it doesn't weigh much).

Right, but I wouldn't measure with a dipstick on a slope and trust that either. Sort of goes without saying that it's always best to measure when you're on a level surface.

All very good points. I agree, completely depends on what you want....... I wouldn't worry too much about less resale value on the Cab. There is no evidence that I know of showing that's the case.

I also moved from a C4S to a TT. The TT is a much better car in my opinion and worth way more than the differential between it and your C4S. I will get off my TT soap-box now. . . There are a number of considerations you should make if you are deciding between a convertible TT or not. Do you drive in the winter? A convertible top is more moving parts and can break. I personally did not even consider a convertible because I like to track and my home track does not allow convertibles for advanced events. Convertibles don't make great track cars in my opinion other than maybe all that wind helps keep you cool when you're banging on it on a 95 degree day and sweating like a rockstar. On the other hand it certainly has its advantages so it probably depends on what you value the most and what your driving situation is.

The oil consumption tolerance on your engine is 1L per 1000km. Most cars probably won't consume that much, but that should give you a frame of reference. Monitoring your oil frequently is very important. I also mostly used the dipstick when I had a 996 but when I switched to a Turbo it only has the electronic gauge, no dipstick anymore, so it must do its job pretty well.

If you do a search you will see plenty of information on oil consumption. No leaks is good. These cars consume oil. What you have stated, one bar in one month, is nothing to be alarmed about. I would frequently check your oil level and add oil as needed keeping the level above the minimum and below the maximum.

I hope not. As you said, best thing would flush out the old fluid and replace with OEM fluid (sounded like you need this anyway).

Sounds good. Also be absolutely sure to use the OEM oil and only the OEM oil. If you have this done at a Porsche dealer that's what they will use, but even some good indy's need to be instructed. Gearbox oil that is widely accepted elsewhere in the racing world (Redline, Royal Purple, etc) are huge no-no's in these cars. How do I know? Because it cost me a gearbox.

If it were my car it would be the first place I would start. It sounds like it's due for a change anyway based on what you stated.

It is not the clutch design that makes it to 100K miles plus ... it is the driver and how they use it. If you are doing drag racing starts or downshifting at too high a speed you will increase clutch wear. When I took the engine out of my 1976 911S with over 135,000 miles on it the clutch still looked very good and was just under 50% worn and I did hundreds of autocross and track events in that car. That was the factory clutch - so as I said it is not the clutch material or design it is how then clutch is used. Agree. This is essentially what I was saying as well. Wow though, impressive that at 135K after hundreds of track events the clutch was still under 50% -- not surprising except for the tracking of the car. I would bet that you are much smoother on the clutch than most folks you meet at track events. When I bought my TT the previous owner had just replaced the entire clutch assembly at 40K miles... it's a different gearbox than the Carrera but just using mileage as an indicator, you will really see numbers all over the board. I have seen people needing a new clutch after 25K miles. As these guys said, life of the clutch itself is, for the most part, dependent on the driver. But just remember it isn't always disc wear that is the problem if your clutch is slipping... it can be something else, like the pressure plate not engaging properly as was the case in my situation. If that's the case you will have a decision if you want to replace the other parts while you are in there, since the cost of dropping the gearbox alone is a large part of the labor cost of this job.

There's a guy on this site with a 996 TT that says he has 300K on the original clutch. Does that mean this is normal and should be expected? No, probably not. It's really hard to say using mileage as the only indicator. Take for example someone who drives cross-country on the highway all year long for work.... vs. someone street racing from stop light to stop light. All that said though, the clutch has a number of moving parts. So as I said in my case, the clutch was ok but there was an issue with the engagement of the pressure plate. Sometimes it can be other related parts that need replacement......