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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    $180 and/or an oil change seems cheap compared to the cost of servicing or replacing a Tip ($$$$$$)
  2. Silver_TT
    congrats! good news
  3. Silver_TT
    I agree with that statement. I would check the codes as Ahsai already pointed out but I experienced something similar when my alternator was going out. I was at very high RPMs climbing a hill and all of a sudden felt a loss of power, the ABS light came on, and the car went into limp mode. It turns out the alternator was going out and was doing funny things...but only at certain RPM ranges, which was the bizarre thing. At certain RPM ranges I was seeing the voltage bounce around all over the place and do weird things. It may have also been exacerbated by the wiring harness which I replaced as well, as it happened on a 100F+ day and I noticed the car had started acting strange as soon as the ambient temp went through the roof that week. I also agree about checking the drive belt. I have seen more than one owner that reported drive belt slippage with the TT (although I personally never experienced it). Also a reason not to use aftermarket parts. Experience has taught me that the old cliché "what's cheap is expensive" is more often correct than not.
  4. Silver_TT
    nice jpflip, very good info as usual from you on the TT. I had never seen that trick before, easy way to get a few inches of clearance and get in there in the tight engine compartment of the TT, very cool.
  5. Silver_TT
    For what it's worth, that doesn't really indicate anything though IMHO. In other words, I would still always scan with a Porsche-specific tool (PIWIS/PST2/Durametric). I have seen generic readers give the wrong information on numerous occasions. Not saying that the codes you have are wrong, but they are definitely not 100% reliable coming out of a generic reader and could potentially lead you down a wrong, and more expensive, path.
  6. Silver_TT
    JFP is already spot on, as usual. I had a different but somewhat similar issue that could only be fixed by flashing back to stock. Strange thing was Durametric and PIWIS were all showing no codes and all READY states and a "pass" for emissions. But the state emissions folks would fail it every time. I ended up working my way into the company that makes the 3rd party software and talked to their software experts. At least in that particular state it sounds like they were able to tell my code wasn't stock (similar to a checksum). State emissions tests in some places have gotten highly sophisticated. This initially surprised me because it's the government, until I realized that it's all outsourced to a 3rd party software vendor. As far as no codes, I also find that very strange. I would reflash back to stock to put you on level ground and then see where you are. Some flashes will purposely suppress error codes from the DME as part of their "defeats" strategy.... hard to really tell what's going on until you reset yourself back to a known state.
  7. Silver_TT
    I think we're in agreement. There's nothing wrong with physically testing a sensor. Doing so isn't mutually exclusive with using the computer for diagnostics (sensor specs, like you gave above, are often given in the OEM diagnostic tree for a given code). The DME is just another tool to help isolate problems, definitely not an end all but these cars are pretty computerized these days, why not listen to the computer if it's telling you what's wrong. In this case I'm understanding that it's going to cost 20 hours to physically get to the sensor to even test it, so an indicator like any specific codes from the DME could be very useful before the engine is pulled. Thanks
  8. Silver_TT
    Ya, as I said in another thread, I think you really need to pull the codes from the car using a PIWIS/PST2 or Durametric. Have they done that?
  9. Silver_TT
    I doubt it's the cluster, but electrical problems like this are a PITA to isolate sometimes. To binger's point, have you started from square 1 and read the codes (using a PIWIS, Durametric, or PST2)? If there are any codes, could you state what they are? I agree that throwing parts at the problem is not the best approach. Hopefully it's throwing a code(s) and will make troubleshooting much easier.
  10. Silver_TT
    You could still have good oil pressure but be low on oil. Just my 2 cents, but oil is one of the most important things to monitor on these cars (or any car for that matter). The 996TT does burn oil, especially if you use a thinner oil like 0w-40, so it's important to keep a tight eye on it. I would go with the GT3 dipstick, if possible as jpflip stated. Maybe your best course of action is to see if either this or the sensor replacement can be done by an ace mechanic without dropping the engine? I don't know, but my guess is someone who is really sharp should be able to do it. I do a lot of DIY but for some things like this it pays to just outsource to someone with very deep experience who can shave major time on a job. Might be worth your while to ask around if there are any especially sharp Porsche mechanics in your area (they're usually -- but not always -- indys in my experience). . ? Keep us posted on the progress.
  11. Silver_TT
    Do you know which specific sensor was replaced and which one you are wanting to replace now?
  12. Silver_TT
    I also concur that the "book" on this is probably 20 hours but a good experienced mechanic on the 996TT can do it in much less. I also agree with jpflip, exactly which sensor is this..? The engine space on the TT is tight of course but a good mechanic should be able to do a lot of things on this car without fully dropping the engine.
  13. Silver_TT
    Kim, click on the "more reply options" button and then you will clearly see an option to attach pictures. Please do, as these are always great to add to the discussion. As far as Raby, yes, you would be hard pressed to find any sane person who doesn't think he's one of the best shop when it comes to that engine. No dispute there. However, his prices certainly aren't cheap. That said though sometimes what seems expensive is actually really cheap when you consider what it does to the value of your vehicle if you don't perform the repair. When you start thinking about it that way, which is the reality of the situation, it's actually quite inexpensive.
  14. Silver_TT
    I would be scared of anything that came from Motor Meister :)
  15. Silver_TT
    Sorry to hear about your intermix. Yes, this is a known issue (written up in Excellence Magazine as well) in both the M96 and M97. The advice you were given to preemptively replace the water pump every 3 years even if it seems there's nothing wrong with it is prudent and sound. Yes, please keep us updated of your progress. In some sense you were very lucky... being only 80 miles away from Flat6 is a good start.
  16. Silver_TT
    If the metal bits were ferrous, further investigation would be needed ASAP and you should stop driving the car; you would potentially be looking at an engine rebuild in the worst case. Some folks have reported flushing the engine numerous times to try to get all the metal particles out after the IMS fails, but it's ill advised given all the "pockets" that stuff can stay trapped in. This is why it's very important to get out ahead of any IMS issues--because by the time a failing IMS has manifested itself, it can be too late. This is hard for some folks to wrap their head around because they figure "why fix what doesn't seem to be broken?" Not sure what that metallic paste is but I wouldn't be overly concerned if it doesn't contain ferrous metal. Just keep a close eye on it and change the oil more frequently until it stabilizes and you are doing oil changes with consistently nothing in the filter.
  17. Silver_TT
    Likely nothing to be concerned with if a large magnet does nothing with the largest flakes. As I said though, I would change the oil and keep an eye on it....and probably change the oil again in another 1K miles or so. Just to make sure everything has stabilized and there's nothing else in your oil filter on subsequent changes. Glad to hear it's not ferrous.
  18. Silver_TT
    A silver metal paste is what you can sometimes see when the IMS is completely toast and the bearings have vaporized. If the IMS is so far gone that the ball bearings disintegrate into tiny particles, it can create a metallic "paste". As stated, you need to see if the metal is ferrous (use a magnet). If the metal is ferrous, you should be concerned. If it's not ferrous, then it's likely nothing to worry about...but I would change the oil frequently to monitor things until it's consistently clean.
  19. Silver_TT
    Ya, less and less actually being made in Germany...... Even parts that are "made in Germany" sometimes have sub-components that weren't (eg. ball bearings from Brazil, etc). No direct experience, but I would still expect this to be a good quality part vis-a-vis the Porsche OEM. Hope it does the trick for you.
  20. Silver_TT
    I saw your post a few days ago but I'm having a hard time following what exactly you're trying to do. You mention a bunch of wreck purchases and an engine. Whenever you buy parts used or from a wreck there is obviously an increased element of risk. Ignoring that for the time being, this wouldn't be the first time folks have used donor parts (whole engine, etc) from vehicles with the same "footprint".... that said, if you are mixing and matching different models (Boxster into a Carrera) then you're likely going to be facing a massive uphill battle as Binger states. Things like the DME are very difficult to get around if you don't have some basic set of compatibility in the parts that you are using.
  21. Silver_TT
    RoW = Rest of World
  22. Silver_TT
    Save yourself time and test it with Durametric by activating it. You won't hear it too often but I would hear it a lot in my Turbo when I got out of the car on hot summer days...it would run for a few minutes after my car was parked in the garage to cool down the engine. I concur that they don't break often, but they do break. I had to replace a bad one in my Turbo (pulling too much amps and blowing the fuse) and I believe what I replaced was not the original fan (because it had a manufacturer date that was many years after my MY) so it might have even been done twice. I used my own battery to test the fan independently, just need some long cord since the battery is in front. Also FYI, if memory serves, you don't need to worry about pos/neg for the purge fan, as it will operate in either direction.
  23. Silver_TT
    Lemförder is a good brand. Authentic German-quality products, etc as already stated. They make OEM parts for the BMW....I used their products in my wife's E46. Amazon actually has some of the best prices on Porsche products. It's hit or miss as far as what they have available but I have seen some of the best prices around on Porsche parts from them (pre-cat, post-cat o2 sensors, and other parts).... much cheaper than AutohausAZ, Pelican, and Porsche, of course.
  24. Silver_TT
    When I needed mine I went with the Bosch reman and it was about $350. Also no experience with the cheap ones but I prefer to stay OEM
  25. Silver_TT
    Nothing controversial about it -- If you follow the LN instructions you will be fine. It's been done thousands of times using those steps so they are tried and true, so to speak. The tool should only go in when you are at TDC. It's just a little metal bracket that will only go in when those are lined-up (TDC). Don't know about the impact gun, I would get JFP to answer that one. I generally don't use an impact gun on my car but I have also never removed the flywheel. Good luck with the job!
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