Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Silver_TT

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    774

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    The real problem is that "getting it right" is going to be a moving target. In my state they are pretty serious about emissions. As Mike alluded to, I've also heard CA is very tough on emissions (one of the toughest). My state bought the OBD2 emissions software from a vendor who, when I researched them, apparently provides the software for a number of other states. They update their software to try to catch the new "defeats". I've seen a situation where a car had an aftermarket tune on it and would not pass emissions because of "o2 sensor readiness". The really odd thing was that all the checks were coming up as PASS in both Durametric and PIWIS....but showing as FAIL in the state's OBD2 software. As soon as the aftermarket flash was taken off and it was reflashed to the OEM flash, everything passed immediately and was just fine. Didn't even need to drive the car the 100 miles or so to set the readiness. So trying to maintain a tuned car like this and needing to pass emissions every year or two is going to be a PITA in my opinion. Be sure you have easy access to a reseller of the tuning software so you can get updates and support and it's not going to cost you an arm and a leg. Most of the tuning companies out there have TERRIBLE support (Revo/Stasis in the US comes to mind) which not only makes them worthless, but actually deters from the value of your car in my opinion.
  2. Silver_TT
    You should be able to accomplish this using either virtualization....... or a dual-boot.
  3. Silver_TT
    Are you running Michelin tires? I read that TSB and it sounds similar to what you are describing but states there is a rattle -- not a griding, as you stated. I don't mean to argue semantics but to me there's a big difference between a rattle and a grind. JFP is correct. There is a specific procedure for adjusting the level of fluid. You have a transmission in your car that runs well north of $10K for a reman replacement from Porsche (not counting labor). I would definitely be sure you're both running the right ATF and gear oil, and be sure the mechanic followed the specific procedure. Having too much or too little fluid (or the incorrect fluid) can permanently damage the gearbox.
  4. Silver_TT
    CELs via the O2 sensors are very commonly triggered with aftermarket exhausts (think high-flow, etc). Many of these ECU flashes try to "defeat" this by either turning those sensors off or making them send "dummy" values that appear good. Just note that remapping the ECU is not a perfect answer to the problems you're having and it will make passing state emissions difficult. You certainly would need to get software updates as they update the Emissions software in most states pretty regularly. For these reasons, I am not a big fan of these mod tunes, and would always stick with stock (for a car that I wanted to be able to legally use on the street anyway). Also, I don't understand why you would ship your ECU to have it flashed. It only takes 3 minutes to do and with most of them they just hookup a laptop with the software to your vehicle or a PIWIS can do it. If you're paying that much it must be to buy the rights to use that tune, not for the labor to install it.
  5. Silver_TT
    He's heard a griding noise on a dozen 996TTs? Hmm....that's news to me and i own one. I have a 2002 996TT manual and I can tell you that I definitely do not get a griding noise from my transaxel (differential) at any RPM range in any gear. The transaxel as a unit is crisp, smooth, and quiet. When's the last time you changed the fluids? What kind of ATF and gear oil did you use? Also, I don't understand fully what you're saying about the tires. Using a certain brand/type of tires should not make the differential grind.... and if it's the tires making the noise I would think you would be able to tell. I don't have firsthand experience with the tiptronics but I'm fairly certain you should not hear a griding noise. I suggest getting a second opinion or trying to identify what's causing the noise. I don't mean to alarm you but if there is a problem in your transaxel it's not going to get better. Metal-on-metal contact in these transaxels, due to lack of lubrication or the wrong type of lubrication, can damage all sorts of expensive parts including gears, pinions, etc. It would be worthwhile to identify what's causing the noise. As a tangential note, the only "irregular" noise on these cars is that the engine tends to rattle at low RPM. However, this is totally normal and not a cause for concern on the TT. Also, have you looked specifically at the wheel bearings?
  6. Silver_TT
    LOL
  7. Silver_TT
    As far as I knew, the factory fill for the 996TT gearbox was Mobilube PTX synthetic and I didn't think that had changed......when I just had my gearbox fluid changed, this was what they used. If you can't find a 100% definitive statement about it being replaced from Porsche, I would call and talk to Stan at Gbox Monday morning and just double check what he recommends. He is the leading expert on this Getrag gearbox and has seen a ton of them come through his shop. Just to beat a dead horse and echo the two experts, Loren and JFP are absolutely correct that you want to use this gearbox oil and only this gearbox oil. A lot of fluids that are widely accepted elsewhere in the racing world (Red Line, Royal Purple) are big no-nos in this gearbox. http://www.gboxweb.com Also, if you do find that it has since been changed, please let us know!
  8. Silver_TT
    Notwithstanding this issue, the 996TT is still incredibly reliable. Porsche was not alone in similar issues when moving to water cooled technology.
  9. Silver_TT
    There are more than 3 pipes -- there are 3 for the water pump housing alone.... Should be more like 8 pipes. See this thread by jpflip, which is a very good reference on this topic (including all parts with part #s): http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/267584-coolant-pipe-repair-parts-needed.html
  10. Silver_TT
    To give you an idea of what this should cost, I was quoted $1900 USD for this job by a local indy (who does good work for good prices). If the engine is already out for another reason, obviously it would cost a lot less. The only other thing I would add is I would ask who is doing the welding and talk to them. You definitely want someone who is good and experienced with this type of welding if you go ahead with the job. JFP is absolutely right about everything he is saying but if you're trying to bide your time, I would try to just re-glue it with the Porsche specified epoxy (assuming you're not tracking the car).
  11. Silver_TT
    The MK1s came with engines (pre-2002ish) that were 3.4L and with a double row IMS bearing which many would say is less prone to failure. However, these engines are more prone to issues like D-chunks. The MK2 engines were a larger 3.6L version and I believe was the first year VarioCam Plus was introduced. The 3.6L engine was less prone to issues with the cylinder walls but has a single row IMS bearing which is more prone to failure. I believe 2001 was the year the IMS bearing changed, but I'm sure other members of this forum will chime in to correct me if I'm wrong. There was also another change later in the 997s (some of which can't be retrofitted without a complete teardown of the engine), however all IMS of this design are potentially vulnerable to this type of failure.
  12. Silver_TT
    993s, in general, are significantly more expensive than 996s. Some would say I'm biased owning a 996 TT now, but I did own a 996 4S previously. The 4S was a great car but, in my opinion, I would opt for a 996 TT. It's twice the car for 50% additional cost when contrast to the 996. The fact that you can pickup a really nice low mileage 996 TT for under $45K right now is incredible. In my opinion it's highly under valued and I would dare to say the best value performance car out there -- period. The IMS aftermarket fix is a wear item, not a one-time fix... so if you buy a car with an M96 engine keep that in mind. If you opt for a 996 TT you won't have to worry about the slew of potentially fatal flaws that can affect non-Mezger engines (IMS, cylinder scoring, etc). While I think the failure rate of the M96 is probably overstated on the Internet, these issues are in fact very real.
  13. Silver_TT
    I don't mean to highjack this thread, but I had a couple questions for JFP regarding this specific comment (I don't need this service but am curious). First, do you happen to know what wheel refurbishing companies by name are known to be the best / most capable? It seems there are a number of them out there. Second, what are the success rates for repairing bent wheels from, say, pot holes? Specifically I've read in the past that these wheels need to be heated to a very high temperature by these shops to make them malleable. I've read that on these Porsche soft alloy wheels this can often cause them to crack (maybe more prone on wheels such as the TT hollow spokes). I was just wondering if a really good refurbishing company has high success rates based on your experience...or if this is more of a "your mileage may vary" type of thing. When you read stuff like this you never know how good the individual was that was working on the wheel..........
  14. Silver_TT
    Durametric can do roughly 85% of what a PIWIS or PST 2 can do. All you need is a windows machine with a USB port. The system requirements are stated on their website: http://www.durametric.com/systemrequirements.aspx I have the enthusiast version which was ~ $300. I can't imagine owning my car without it. It's an indispensable tool.
  15. Silver_TT
    Garbage knock-off out of China. Not a dependable tool, often gives unreliable results....not to mention that you're hurting a company that the DIY community is lucky to have and should be supporting. If Durametric weren't around, you wouldn't have their product to knock-off.
  16. Silver_TT
    Just to elaborate on what JFP is saying, those customers that used aftermarket gear oils and went back to the OEM to eliminate problems were very lucky. Using non-OEM gear oils that are otherwise viewed favorably outside the Porsche world (Redline, Royal Purple, etc) in these gearboxes can do permanent damage to the gears, synchros and other metal-on-metal components of these gearboxes. If you talk to Stan at Gbox he will tell you do not to use anything but the OEM gear oil or you're asking for trouble. For the price of the damage this can do, it's shocking to me that more Porsche owners aren't aware of it.
  17. Silver_TT
    Had a similar issue some time back. Replaced only the voltage regulator which fixed the problem 90% but, in the end, it turned out the alternator was otherwise bad (would operate within spec except at certain RPM ranges)...and this may or may not have contributed to shortening the life of the voltage regulator. I don't regret trying that first as the alternator really isn't that tough to get to, but if I had to do it again I would just replace the alternator next time with a Bosch reman. I normally don't fix what isn't broke... but my alternator was 85K miles old and the alternator is a wear item, like most of the parts on the car...so sometimes I agree in doing the preventative maintainance. Either way, hopefully this gets you sorted.......
  18. Silver_TT
    I would have your battery tested. While it's good your cables look tight and corrosion-free you would really need to test the voltages properly. Ahsai recently had a really nice write-up on how to do this... or a shop should be able to do it for you pretty quick. This wiring harness is a very common problem. The alternator can be pseudo load-tested with it still in the car. This only takes about 10 mins. Otherwise if you get it out, Auto Zone or similar store should be able to test it for you. If the alternator is in fact bad, $450 seems a little high if memory serves. I would have thought more like ~ $350 or $375 for a Bosch reman depending on if you need the freewheel pulley version or not.........
  19. Silver_TT
    Might be worth picking up a Durametric too while you're at it. Solving problems on these cars is a lot easier and cheaper when you are able to read the codes.
  20. Silver_TT
    Depends on what you want to buy. Sunset Porsche parts out of Oregon is almost always one of the best if you want OEM parts.... they operate on a cost + fixed % model. For some parts like replacing an alternator, for example, it can sometimes make sense to buy a Bosch reman product for ~ $350 instead of ~ $2,000 for an OEM from Porsche. For those there are numerous online vendors like Pelican, AutohausAZ, Vertex, etc....
  21. Silver_TT
    Refer to JFP's post #5 -- this doesn't have anything to do with "hard set" codes. It probably has to do with generic OBD II scanners not being able to read some Porsche-specific codes. In my opinion, owning a Durametric is a must-have for this reason...and as Ahsai said, it's possible you had misfires that have since cleared in the DME. For this reason also a good idea to have a Durametric on hand.
  22. Silver_TT
    Just because the CEL isn't illuminated doesn't mean there isn't a code stored. I would definitely try scanning for codes using a PIWIS/PST2/Durametric. If you're 65+ miles from a shop I would definitely invest in a Durametric.
  23. Silver_TT
    Possible you could use an alignment? Also, even the slightest bend in your wheel (from hitting a hot-pole) can cause a wobble... but only at certain speed ranges, such as you suggest.
  24. Silver_TT
    It is likely a cable causing your voltage drop. You said the battery is brand new and the alternator is new as well, correct? As JFP stated, this has been covered numerous times. As a matter of fact, I would bet it's one of the top 5 or 10 most common problems with these vehicles and posted on this site. The good news is it's easy and cheap to fix. Ahsai and JFP recently posted some really good information on the cable(s) and how to isolate what component is causing the voltage drop. Assuming you don't need another alternator since you said you already replaced the old one. I wouldn't worry too much about the core charge. I recently fixed the same issue you are describing (I've seen some of your other posts related to this issue so I'm aware of what's going on) and, in my case, it required a new wiring harness and new alternator both. I think I paid $350 for the alternator and paid a core deposit but sent the old alternator core back the same day after I replaced it. They had refunded the core charge back to my card before the original charge even went from pending to a charge. If you want to keep your old core for whatever reason, you are just going to pay more....
  25. Silver_TT
    Indeed....you are correct (as usual)!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.