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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    This is worth repeating and applies to any modern engine that uses a PCV system as it is one of the most misunderstood topics. In the case of the Porsche M96 design it is even more important since a bad AOS that isn't throttling vacuum levels to spec can literally suck oil into the intake and hydrolock the engine doing all kinds of nasty things. Even in other designs there can be several modes of failure and the AOS is actually one of the most simple designs. But some fuel and oil formulations can be hard on the diaphragm and they have also updated the material the diaphragm is made of to make it more robust. I use a digital manometer periodically but I will still replace my AOS every 40-50K miles. Too much to lose for a part that is a consumable.....
  2. Silver_TT
    Still depends on what kind of Audi. The Audi 3.0 and up engines are not particularly easy to work on either and are more similar to the Porsche engines (double banks, etc) than the 2.0. To be honest I have owned Porsche's and Audi's for 20 years and I find a ton of similarities between them -- I don't believe Audi is better at organizing the engine per se. If you watch TikTok mechanic videos ever you can see all sorts of brands with ridiculously annoying designs like JFP is saying (there's an entire meme dedicated to this if you're into that type of thing). Things like when you pull the oil plug it drains out down onto the top of a crossbar making the oil spill everywhere in a huge mess. Generally speaking it's pretty complicated fitting all that technology and hardware into such a tight space with the TT. It's even hard with the naturally aspirated engines too -- nothing is really easy. Now I would never compare a 2.0T to a 997.2TT...................... but as far as the 2.0T goes, you can do so many jobs on the engine with a few basic tools in 30 mins. So many "one beer" jobs.....
  3. Silver_TT
    Small displacement turbocharged engines come with their own drawbacks and considerations.
  4. Silver_TT
    Or maybe bits of plastic from the pads/guides.
  5. Silver_TT
    If the valves aren't bent, when they seat they form a nice seal. When the engine is out of the car and they are closed if you're getting a good seal you can literally do a "water test" and dump some water down in and will hold -- that's how well they seal up. If they are bent the air (or water) will just leak right by... For parts I would go to Sunset Porsche. They are one of the largest dealers in the country and sell OE parts and have full access to Porsche (and Audi) dealer information. That's who I used to do my timing job. You can give them your VIN and they can tell you every part for the job. I would do the whole thing while you're in there if you go that route -- chains, tensioners, all guides. Doesn't make sense to do anything short of everything while you're in there (although at least with the tensioners they are serviceable outside the engine).
  6. Silver_TT
    I would see if it can be saved. If you didn't bend any valves then you can replace the chains, tensioners, and all plastic guides. A simple compression test should answer that question I would think.
  7. Silver_TT
    yes there are different versions of the alternator -- freewheel/clutching and not. Did you check the part you bought against your VIN to ensure you got the right versison?
  8. Silver_TT
    Moneypit to create a Frankenstein car that will have significantly less market value and you just have to ask yourself why bother unless you're just looking for an expensive way to kill a lot of time doing all the work yourself.
  9. Silver_TT
    Using software to check the cam timing (also called "phase position" with some VW/Audi engines) is a quick and easy way to check without even getting your hands dirty. I used this method on an Audi 2.0T last summer to save the engine before it completely destroyed the head with no warning. Upon taking the timing cover off and seeing the timing chain "stretch" and tensioner extension (almost completely out of the housing), I could see that the software deviation value was right on the money. The 2.0T actually has a little "peep hole" that you can use to look at the tensioner extension but I don't even bother with that and just check my deviations periodically (every oil change I check it and record it). As JFP said, be sure to check on a hot engine as the value can deteriorate significantly. On my engine it was almost a full degree with the old worn chain.... on the new chain it still differs, just not as much as one would expect.
  10. Silver_TT
    Never have the same place you are buying the car from do the PPI and definitely never listen to a word the salesman says. Odds are it has borescoring and someone “dumped it”…..never should be wet oil in the exhaust if the engine is healthy and operating in spec
  11. Silver_TT
    My opinion but just buy a new OE alternator and be done with it....
  12. Silver_TT
    +1 Sunset Porsche is an excellent site p.s. I see you're in Brooklyn. I used to live in Clinton Hill.
  13. Silver_TT
    Redline??? That's exactly what ruined my gearbox. It's your car and your money but I don't want something bad to happen to you like it did to me -- you really need to be careful here or this is what you could have in store in your future:
  14. Silver_TT
    be very careful, i had a gearbox that was destroyed because the previous owner used aftermarket transmission fluid. also Porsche has changed their recommendation over time. last I looked they are now recommending Shell transaxle gear oil , at least for the 996TT's Getrag. this ain't like motor oils where it's "take your pick"..........
  15. Silver_TT
    Looks like the cams have to be locked on the 5 chain too...that's what I thought. Good lord, be careful what you read on the internet if it's not from a trusted source. LN is def the way to go no one in their right mind would argue that. Lots of horror stories from people that used the Pelican Parts procedure, and many others.... From the PDF that JPF posted: "Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners."
  16. Silver_TT
    Sorry just saw you have the 5 chain setup. I will defer to JFP or someone that has done that job a million times.
  17. Silver_TT
    Yes you need to lock the cams. people here are very nice and friendly, this isn’t Rennlist … never feel silly asking questions
  18. Silver_TT
    Strong work…. Mine also had a lot of broken catalyst inside. The cats are subject to a lot of vibration which I think is a big factor. Glad you got it sorted
  19. Silver_TT
    Bank 2 is better but not fine. Bank 1 is shot. I had a 2002 C4S and had this exact issue if you do a search you will find a detailed thread. I would replace both since Bank 2 will be toast soon. IMHO cats fail on these cars at this mileage or lower due to the vibration and over time it breaks or otherwise damages the honeycomb inside. The cats are expensive new but you may be able to find a good fair from a low mileage doner vehicle from like a scrap yard. I would never buy parts for my car from a scrap yard but for certain parts it cannot hurt your car. For example I bought a $2000 alcantara headliner for $100 that was literally like new and you can do the same thing with the cats. After you have this fixed you should note that it can take 100 miles or more of driving before your readiness states are reset. So just keep that in mind when you need to do your smog test. Good luck!.........
  20. Silver_TT
    Strong work! Met my indy through PCA too.... can't even remember it's been so long, I think he did my first track inspection.
  21. Silver_TT
    I would try to find a good indy near you who has knowledge in Porsche (usually VW/Audi guys will do pretty well on this platform too since there is much overlap). I have learned my car inside and out and have the knowledge to do literally almost any job on this car. But I don't have the tools and quite honestly at this point I don't want to invest a lot of money in them when I have an indy who I know is better than 99% of dealer Porsche techs but only charges $100/hour, and he has all the tools in the world. Unless you want to spin wrenches professionally or just like to collect tools for fun, IMHO at this point of where cars are I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense to invest a ton of money in specialized tools. I would love to have a SnapOn DTac because it's an amazing tool..........but odds are I will probably only need to use it once or twice more in my lifetime. I provide all parts and fluids (OE from Sunset) and he just does the labor. So in this sense my car is "dealer serviced" -- it's the exact same thing except you don't get your face ripped off by the Porsche dealer.
  22. Silver_TT
    You could consider using a high quality oil like Driven DT40 with 5K mile OCIs. You can buy it at advance auto parts using coupons for the 10 packs (not single quarts), when it's available. It comes and goes, I stock up and check every few months if I need more. Like JFP is saying, one problem with running cheap oils even at short OCIs is they shear at high temperatures turning the oil into something closer to water than a lubricant.
  23. Silver_TT
    If you see a torn boot replace it immediately. The difference is if you ignore it eventually it will get expensive and things the CV joint will fail. You will know because you will hear a knocking sound or clicking as I mentioned .... or if it gets bad it can affect suspension and drive experience (vibration, etc). The boot is very cheap. Every time my car is up on the rack I always look at them to be sure no tears because if you catch it early it's cheap. But if you sleep on it, this gets expensive fast.
  24. Silver_TT
    On my Audi Q5 2.0T I started to hear a clicking in the front suspension. Inspected and found grease slung out from the ripped boot .... it was too late, dirt and debris had gotten in there and destroyed the CV joint. Now I watch it like a hawk and caught the other side, which happened very shortly after, while it was only the boot which is cheap and easy. Anyway as soon as you see grease I would fix it. Preferably you should inspect your boots regularly. On some of these cars the boot has been revised to be a bit tougher and more durable..............
  25. Silver_TT
    This moderator's response is 100% spot on. Your engine couldn't maintain the proper level of crankcase vacuum. This is why for engines burning oil (not because the oil cap is off) one of the first and easiest things to do is check the crankcase vacuum to see if you have an issue with the AOS, which is tasked with regulating the crankcase vacuum to spec.
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