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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    My Revo tune came with this to switch back and forth between tuned and stock like Loren is saying -- but it didn't work: Serial Port Switch (SPS) | Only REVO WWW.ONLYREVO.COM Also I don't understand why but I live 3 minutes from a Porsche dealer who back then was super friendly (since then was bought by a larger national dealership network and they now suck). I tried having them flash the computer back to stock but for some reason only Revo was able to do it. This is why I was so annoyed they made me drive 2 hours to their authorized location, then I did all the work talking to the support people in Europe to show the tech how to do it. Cobb is probably much better just based on what I have read. I liked this car stock but if you want to tune it just be sure to do some research and get a good tune as their are a lot of crap ones out there. Also test it on a dyno if you can. When I bought my 996TT the owner claimed something ridiculous like it made the car 600 HP. I knew this was B.S. but wanted the car anyway, the tune just came with it. Anyway, after I took the tune off and was driving home on the highway I could tell no difference. I kept thinking maybe they didn't put down the right flash file but I drove straight to the emissions center where I immediately passed (since enough time had gone by driving to set my readiness states)
  2. Silver_TT
    My 996TT came flashed with Revo and it's complete garbage. Long story short the car wouldn't pass emissions in the tough state I live in (it's outsourced to a 3rd party and they do a checksum on the flashROM and if doesn't match stock you fail) and when i took it off I noticed no difference in performance. The car is a monster with no flash. Also screw Revo and the horse they rode in on. It came with a device that is supposed to flash back and forth to stock but it didn't work. Revo support wouldn't give me the Porsche OE flash file and demanded that I take the car to one of their "authorized" centers two hours away from the major city I live in. Please, I have a degree in computer science, this is laughable. Ok fine, I understand though, you have to control things so I was still good. BUT when I got there it was some small car repair shop with an 18 year old that I had to show how to use the software and pay 1-2 hours labor to help him flash my own car back to stock. And Revo is in Europe so it was annoying timezone etc because the kid had to call them to get some information.
  3. Silver_TT
    I would buy wiper blades from Amazon directly (not a 3rd party seller) but not a water pump. Also avoid places like ECS, AutohausAZ, etc as Sunset is a real dealer and usually not much more expensive (sometimes cheaper) and the part quality is genuine/higher and from a vendor that controls their supply chain. Even aside from the terminology games some play, I have seen several instances of people buying from these places based on model or something other than VIN and they ending up with a part that looks the same but isn't the correct one for their vehicle. I have seen this on everything from alternators to PCV's with the wrong diaphragm vacuum spec.... and it lead them on a huge wild goose chase throwing parts at it. Only to find they should have just been using authentic parts and saving the trouble in the first place for little extra cost.
  4. Silver_TT
    Sunset has great pricing and provide your VIN so be sure you always get the correct parts/fluids. Just to reiterate because I personally got burned by it so no one knows better (previous owner used RedLine or similar and took it out of the "dealer only serviced" records). NEVER EVER EVER use aftermarket gear oil. It trashed the synchros and internals. Sorry for the all caps but this cost me probably $7K+ all in to fix properly and thank god I didn't have a PDK or I would have been SOL. I read on the Audi and Porsche forums all the time that people say they can create their own friction modifiers to match the same as the OE formula and it drives me crazy how naïve these people are with no background in lubrication or chemistry. This isn't like motor oil where you can take your pick (although some are clearly better than others). This is probably one of the biggest misconceptions and areas of false information I have seen. People trying to save $50 on fluid at the risk of ruining their entire transaxle, it drives me crazy.
  5. Silver_TT
    strong work!
  6. Silver_TT
    This is worth repeating and applies to any modern engine that uses a PCV system as it is one of the most misunderstood topics. In the case of the Porsche M96 design it is even more important since a bad AOS that isn't throttling vacuum levels to spec can literally suck oil into the intake and hydrolock the engine doing all kinds of nasty things. Even in other designs there can be several modes of failure and the AOS is actually one of the most simple designs. But some fuel and oil formulations can be hard on the diaphragm and they have also updated the material the diaphragm is made of to make it more robust. I use a digital manometer periodically but I will still replace my AOS every 40-50K miles. Too much to lose for a part that is a consumable.....
  7. Silver_TT
    Still depends on what kind of Audi. The Audi 3.0 and up engines are not particularly easy to work on either and are more similar to the Porsche engines (double banks, etc) than the 2.0. To be honest I have owned Porsche's and Audi's for 20 years and I find a ton of similarities between them -- I don't believe Audi is better at organizing the engine per se. If you watch TikTok mechanic videos ever you can see all sorts of brands with ridiculously annoying designs like JFP is saying (there's an entire meme dedicated to this if you're into that type of thing). Things like when you pull the oil plug it drains out down onto the top of a crossbar making the oil spill everywhere in a huge mess. Generally speaking it's pretty complicated fitting all that technology and hardware into such a tight space with the TT. It's even hard with the naturally aspirated engines too -- nothing is really easy. Now I would never compare a 2.0T to a 997.2TT...................... but as far as the 2.0T goes, you can do so many jobs on the engine with a few basic tools in 30 mins. So many "one beer" jobs.....
  8. Silver_TT
    Small displacement turbocharged engines come with their own drawbacks and considerations.
  9. Silver_TT
    Or maybe bits of plastic from the pads/guides.
  10. Silver_TT
    If the valves aren't bent, when they seat they form a nice seal. When the engine is out of the car and they are closed if you're getting a good seal you can literally do a "water test" and dump some water down in and will hold -- that's how well they seal up. If they are bent the air (or water) will just leak right by... For parts I would go to Sunset Porsche. They are one of the largest dealers in the country and sell OE parts and have full access to Porsche (and Audi) dealer information. That's who I used to do my timing job. You can give them your VIN and they can tell you every part for the job. I would do the whole thing while you're in there if you go that route -- chains, tensioners, all guides. Doesn't make sense to do anything short of everything while you're in there (although at least with the tensioners they are serviceable outside the engine).
  11. Silver_TT
    I would see if it can be saved. If you didn't bend any valves then you can replace the chains, tensioners, and all plastic guides. A simple compression test should answer that question I would think.
  12. Silver_TT
    yes there are different versions of the alternator -- freewheel/clutching and not. Did you check the part you bought against your VIN to ensure you got the right versison?
  13. Silver_TT
    Moneypit to create a Frankenstein car that will have significantly less market value and you just have to ask yourself why bother unless you're just looking for an expensive way to kill a lot of time doing all the work yourself.
  14. Silver_TT
    Using software to check the cam timing (also called "phase position" with some VW/Audi engines) is a quick and easy way to check without even getting your hands dirty. I used this method on an Audi 2.0T last summer to save the engine before it completely destroyed the head with no warning. Upon taking the timing cover off and seeing the timing chain "stretch" and tensioner extension (almost completely out of the housing), I could see that the software deviation value was right on the money. The 2.0T actually has a little "peep hole" that you can use to look at the tensioner extension but I don't even bother with that and just check my deviations periodically (every oil change I check it and record it). As JFP said, be sure to check on a hot engine as the value can deteriorate significantly. On my engine it was almost a full degree with the old worn chain.... on the new chain it still differs, just not as much as one would expect.
  15. Silver_TT
    Never have the same place you are buying the car from do the PPI and definitely never listen to a word the salesman says. Odds are it has borescoring and someone “dumped it”…..never should be wet oil in the exhaust if the engine is healthy and operating in spec
  16. Silver_TT
    My opinion but just buy a new OE alternator and be done with it....
  17. Silver_TT
    +1 Sunset Porsche is an excellent site p.s. I see you're in Brooklyn. I used to live in Clinton Hill.
  18. Silver_TT
    Redline??? That's exactly what ruined my gearbox. It's your car and your money but I don't want something bad to happen to you like it did to me -- you really need to be careful here or this is what you could have in store in your future:
  19. Silver_TT
    be very careful, i had a gearbox that was destroyed because the previous owner used aftermarket transmission fluid. also Porsche has changed their recommendation over time. last I looked they are now recommending Shell transaxle gear oil , at least for the 996TT's Getrag. this ain't like motor oils where it's "take your pick"..........
  20. Silver_TT
    Looks like the cams have to be locked on the 5 chain too...that's what I thought. Good lord, be careful what you read on the internet if it's not from a trusted source. LN is def the way to go no one in their right mind would argue that. Lots of horror stories from people that used the Pelican Parts procedure, and many others.... From the PDF that JPF posted: "Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners."
  21. Silver_TT
    Sorry just saw you have the 5 chain setup. I will defer to JFP or someone that has done that job a million times.
  22. Silver_TT
    Yes you need to lock the cams. people here are very nice and friendly, this isn’t Rennlist … never feel silly asking questions
  23. Silver_TT
    Strong work…. Mine also had a lot of broken catalyst inside. The cats are subject to a lot of vibration which I think is a big factor. Glad you got it sorted
  24. Silver_TT
    Bank 2 is better but not fine. Bank 1 is shot. I had a 2002 C4S and had this exact issue if you do a search you will find a detailed thread. I would replace both since Bank 2 will be toast soon. IMHO cats fail on these cars at this mileage or lower due to the vibration and over time it breaks or otherwise damages the honeycomb inside. The cats are expensive new but you may be able to find a good fair from a low mileage doner vehicle from like a scrap yard. I would never buy parts for my car from a scrap yard but for certain parts it cannot hurt your car. For example I bought a $2000 alcantara headliner for $100 that was literally like new and you can do the same thing with the cats. After you have this fixed you should note that it can take 100 miles or more of driving before your readiness states are reset. So just keep that in mind when you need to do your smog test. Good luck!.........
  25. Silver_TT
    Strong work! Met my indy through PCA too.... can't even remember it's been so long, I think he did my first track inspection.
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