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Mike Petonic

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Everything posted by Mike Petonic

  1. Nice writeup! Thanks for sharing. Hey, are your Staffies service animals? How'd you get them into bars and restaurants? We bring our cat into bars and restaurants sometimes, but he's a bit easier to hide (even at 22 lbs) than a couple of Staffies.
  2. The best thing about PCCBs? No more brake dust! Seriously, this is almost worth $8000/rotor. :-)
  3. Nice. I like how you did that. Since I don't track it and, thankfully, my TT is very reliable, I don't really use the tow hook hole. I do, however, use it to hold my front license plate when I get the occasional "no front license plate" fixit ticket.
  4. I've got the same issue in my '04 TTx50. I think Loren was correct in identifying it as a vacuum leak, but the same symptoms. Here's additional detail: Same as yours, when the engine is warm, it doesn't happen. If I press hard on the brake when it starts to "surge", the RPMS go back down (this is what led Loren, I believe, to think that it is a vacuum line). It settles back down after about 1/8 of a mile. Net net is that I don't worry about it anymore. I just press hard on the brake when I'm done with my first back-out of my parking slot. By the time that I get to the card reader in the g
  5. Fog lights originated in Europe and are mandatory in many of the countries there. I went to high school in Belgium in 1980 or so, and my father had brought over an Oldsmobile (!!!! -- don't ask). He had to retrofit a fog light on the driver's side. There never was such a thing as a passengers fog light. To this day, I don't think that there's such a thing. Even my wife's AMG CL55 only has a driver's fog light. It defeats the purpose to have fog lights on both sides of the rear. It's just not done that way.
  6. How much did this cost you for the exhaust and also how much did the install cost? Thanks!
  7. I had the same problem. I just scootched the mat over about an inch or so, left or right, doesn't matter, and started a new hole in the carpet to thread in. I used a small bladelike punch awl to start the hole. Hope this helps. It's worked great for me, and then when I need to do it again, I'll move it back to the original place, because by then, that will have filled in through use.
  8. Look at the attachment from Bolli996. It's got pretty detailed instructions.
  9. Man, I'd love to find an indy in San Francisco that charges the equivalent of £40. That's $63/hr. Great! My indy's rate is US$132/hr. About £85/hr.
  10. +1 n the Hankook Ventus V12s, too. For about 2 months, I had been running them at 33/36 instead of the recommended 36/44. They definitely felt squirelly at 33/26, but firmed right up at 36/44. In the latter case, it's a bit more bumpy over less than perfect roads, but the handling is more confident. I've got a stock x50 suspension.
  11. Hi Paul -- I'm somewhat interested in the concept. Why don't you use the radio system? Too quiet otherwise? I think it's neat to be able to "unmuffle" the exhaust when you're out driving alone (vs having the wife in the car trying to carry on a conversation). Do you mind me letting me know how much you spent on the Valvetronic exhaust? I've got a 996TTxt50, and I see that Valvetronic has a model for my car.
  12. What is the normal boost for an X50?
  13. OK, we're getting closer to the root cause. It's definitely stepping on the brake that causes the fast idle to stop. A gentle step on the brake won't stop it. If I just let off the throttle, that's when the fast idle actually kicks in.
  14. Thanks, Loren. My brakes seem to work well at this point, and I'm wondering if this is something that I should get looked at, and whether it's a potential safety issue. If I do have a vacuum leak in the brake booster line, what's the worst case failure if it degrades? Could I have inoperable brakes, eventually? As things currently stand, I don't mind hitting the brakes hard to stop the fast-idle. But if it's going to degenerate into something potentially dangerous, I will definitely jump on it. Thanks!
  15. I'm reviving this old thread that I started. I've found and have been using a "compensating control" for the phenomenon that I described. For the first 4 minutes or so after I do a cold start, when reversing, I get a pretty fast idle when I lift off the gas -- about 1800-2000 rpm or so. In order to stop the high idle, I step down on the brake rather hard. As soon as I do that, the fast idle stops. A more gentle press on the brake doesn't stop the high idle. Eventually, the car will stop idling fast, but the fast way (<1s) to do it is to step on the brake. I'm guessing that there's
  16. Same. Big diff. My wife won't ride with me w/o the deflector. Worth it. I'm almost 6'3" with 33" inseems, if that helps.
  17. That's funny, because my steering technique is similar: I throw it into the corners as if it were my mother-in-law. ;)
  18. Thanks for the report. The top on my 04 Cab is not that pristine, and may start leaking in a few years (or less). I might be needing a replacement soon and your recommendation / experience is appreciated. Cheers!
  19. Thanks, Loren. Reading this over, it looks like my '04 996tt has bi-zenon instead of the older Litronic system, which means that it uses a mechanical mask to switch between main and dipped lights, which means that it's impossible to do the hack that I wanted. Oh well. Was worth a thought, and that book is a good read, so thank you!
  20. In my quest to find more usable light while driving on backroads, I posted a question on another P forum querying being able to use higher wattage main beams (brights) on my '04 996 ttx50. Several people recommended against that because of not only the wiring harness, switches and potentially fuse, but more relevantly the plastic headlight housing, which will melt and/or yellow. Someone else on that forum asked the question if we might be able to hack it so that the dipped lights (litronic low beam) stay on while the main beams (high beams) are actuated. I wanted to look at the wiring dia
  21. You and I are thinking along the same lines, JudgeJon. Currently, I've got my V1 body to the left of the RVM and very high up. The remote display is located on my instrument panel, right above the steering column. I'd much prefer it in a location that you described on your '79 SC, but yeah, it doesn't look like it's going to elegantly fit there. What I like about the current setup is that the V1 is fairly unobtrusive, but I still take it out and put it in my center storage area when I'm parking in sketchy neighborhoods (live in SF, so there are quite a few of them). What I *don't* l
  22. Glad that it was helpful to you. I wired my V1 tapping into the switched power from the console. @JudgeJon: if you have an electronically dimming mirror, you can't use the Blend Mount. It looks outstanding in SoUtahC4S's pictures, and I wish that I could use it, but they don't have an application for electronically dimming mirrors, only manual ones. I actually prefer manually dimming mirrors, so I may switch. That mount looks sexy in that 996.
  23. Check out this post for what you want: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-1998-2003/611706-hardwiring-a-v1-to-your-996-turbo.html
  24. I don't think that's normal. My driver's side window did that for a little bit. I remembered that I'd accidentally spilled something semi-gooey on the outside of the window, maybe a couple drops of a soda or something. So, when I rolled the window up, I thoroughly cleaned the window, as well as the black rubber below it with a moist rag. I actually ran the rag between the window and the rubber (using a dull knife or something to put the rag in there). Now, my window behaves as expected. I can't imagine that the rubber folding under the window for a long time can be good for the windo
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