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Everything posted by wrinkledpants

  1. Here is the picture image to go with my part numbers I've listed above. From what I've heard - you can reach all of these from the lower side if you don't mind working in confined spaces with some scratched up hands. You can download the Porsche PET catalog for the 955 from Porsche themselves, FYI.
  2. This would be the first Cayenne pump I've heard of failing. Have you tried to see if the headlight pumps, or rear washer work - just to make sure it's not a switch issue? What year is the Cayenne?
  3. You can't. Need the whole housing. Just find one on eBay if you don't want to buy new.
  4. If you have this code, you have a boost leak somewhere that needs to be fixed. Sometimes, tracking these down can be tricky. You can check your charge hoses (after the IC), the diverter valves, N75, and plenum - but if that doesn't reveal anything obvious, you'll need to take it to the dealer to have them pressure test it.
  5. Did you need any special tools, or are standard hand tools fine? I thought I remember seeing a write up, and it looked fairly intense, even for someone that does the majority of their own work on the car.
  6. Use a flat-blade screwdriver and insert it where the notch is on the edge. Pry it out. Don't use your key. There is a flat blade screwdriver in the tool-box in the trunk.
  7. I'd see if you can swap one of the light assemblies from the opposite side in to see if it works. If not, then I'd guess you have a wiring issue somewhere. No clue where you would begin looking for that.
  8. You need to be willing to pay some money to troubleshoot. There is nothing we can do if you're not able to get somewhere to have an actual diagnostics done. And, I can't think of anything you could do since you need an AC hose setup to test for leaks, a Durametric to test the servos. It would be unusual to have all your servo motors fail to the point that the back of the car blows warm air out of all the vents. Without a Durametric or a trip to the dealer - there will be no way to know for sure. It could be an AC system charge issue, but it usually impacts both front and back. I'm not aware of any switch or servo in the AC refrigerant lines between the front and the back, as I believe it's an open system. So, that leaves something wrong with your evaporator in the back, or some type of check valve. But, again - that's going to be above and beyond the skill of any Midas tech, or what a Durametric could troubleshoot.
  9. I'd start with taking a mirror and following the valve cover gaskets all the way around. That's the more common area for oil leaks that drip down the side of the motor. And, on an 2003 car - you're likely going to need to replace those from age if you have low miles on the car.
  10. Dynavin is a popular choice as it's designed to be an OEM-like replacement. However, it's 800 bucks. AvinUSA is also working on a unit that should be out this year at some point. Same setup - designed for OEM integration, and priced similar to the Dynavin unit. I'm holding out for the Avin unit, my self.
  11. I've read about others having a similar issue, and they crack the air hose on the strut to manually lower the car down to a reasonable position.
  12. You're never out of the clear. It's not a defect that only revealed itself early in the mileage range. It seems most of the scored cars come from cold climates where they see cold starts routinely. So, if the car has always been a southern car, I think that helps. Good habits can help mitigate the problem, too. Don't let the car idle after starting. Get in, start it, drive off slowly. If you let it idle and warm up, the engine is spending a lot of time in its highest wear state. Don't go WOT until the oil temp is warmed up. Try to drive it as gingerly as possible until the engine temp and oil temp are up to speed. If the car has made it this far, that's a good sign. But, you're never really "out of the weeds."
  13. Sometimes codes are symptoms or a problem, and sometimes codes are the problem. If you get a misfire, that's a symptom of something not being right. Could be bad coils, plugs, an injector, etc. If you have an open/short to ground code on a camshaft, that's saying the camshaft sensor is bad. Sounds like the camshaft sensor is bad, and you have sometime of evap leak in the fuel system. My guess is the camshaft is what's causing the engine problems. I'd focus on that first.
  14. Have you checked whether you can do the output tests with Vagcom? That should tell you if the flaps can move their full range.
  15. Do a search on which fuses to pull to test the fuel pumps. Crank position sensor would be my next guess. It might not throw a code until things start to get really bad, though.
  16. When you took the water pump out, were there any fins missing? Cooling systems aren't all that complicated. Over heating problem - install new pump - still overheating. I would bump a failed water pump to the bottom of the list of possible culprits at this point. Fans kicking on to high speed tells me the radiator temp sensor is reading correctly, and not likely a faulty sensor. If you haven't done the thermostat - that would be my number suspect at this point.
  17. Do you have a later year Cayenne? I had an 06 Treg that had the plastic-type hose. My 04 CTT has a sturdy rubber hose that's much more pliable. You could probably go to any salvage yard that has a CTT and get one.
  18. Wow - according to that document, the 2-zone is the better AC setup. It can maintain cold vent temps at a higher ambient temp, and it's high pressure values will hit the 290 PSI mark, triggering high speed fans at a low ambient temp. I thought the 4-zone would have been the meet locker champ, but it's the 2-zone.
  19. My 04 CTT's AC just hasn't ever seemed that cold. Had it recharged today at the Porsche dealer. They said it was down .5 lbs, but I don't feel any difference in the temps. I took a thermometer out and measured the vent temps. Test 1:Ambient 70 degrees, Parking garage (no sun). HVAC (4-zone) set to Low. Waited about 5 minutes, and the center vent temp was at 52 degrees. All the front vent temps were about the same. Went to my wife's 04 A4 1.8T with 150K on the clock, and the vent temp was 42, and felt more appropriate. Test 2: Ambient 75 degrees, interior 95 degrees. Set to Low, and temps came down to 70 degrees in about 2 minutes. After 7 minutes, the temps were at 60 degrees and holding steady. Test 3: started driving from Test 2, and through city streets, vent temps went down to about 40 degrees with the HVAC on Low. Once I stop, the vent temps start to climb. Rear vents are a bit warmer than the front. According to the porsche after sales docs, the engine fans should kick on at full speed once the PSI in the high pressure side hits 250 PSI. I've never seen my engine fans go to high speed on the CTT. On previous VAG cars, high speed engine fans sound like vacuum cleaners. Mine are spinning, and only audible if I put my face near the front bumper. If it's hot out, and I've selected max AC with a fully recharged system, shouldn't the high pressure side PSI increase enough to kick the engine fans on to high speed? It's possible my flap motors might be bad, but there are 4 AFAIK on this car. And, it's hard to imagine they all failed in the same way so that the temperate at the vents is all the same. Either that, or there is something wrong in the AC system preventing the car from generating higher pressures? Any other ideas? I'd think a car with this capability and 2 AC systems would be able to make cooler air than my wife's A4.
  20. Did you have to pull the top of the dash, or were you able to reach everything from down below?
  21. Tregs had the same issue. Button was part of the problem, but so was the seatbelt assembly. Something about a rivet, either within the belt mechanism or in the mount. A new seatbelt with a better design cured the problem, as well as adding the button back if you are missing it.
  22. Honestly, it's a base model Cayenne. Take the money and run. Once you get water intrusion on that level to the interior - you're destined for a life of weird issues popping up.
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