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Hilux2400

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Everything posted by Hilux2400

  1. It still seems to me that there is an intermittent connection failure. This may have been cause by the seat moving and pulling the loom apart somewhere. I would be tempted to track back a distance and see if the wires have severed. I had a similar problem with a multiplug some year back (different vehicle) where one of the wires had come a drift from the female connector within the housing, but it was generally being held in place by the loom. Sometimes it would connect and sometimes it wouldn't. The failure was within the insulation near the plug. I solved the problem by remaking the failed wire. It took me ages to find the fault as from a first visual inspection everything looked OK. Happy hunting H
  2. I found the drop links on my car to be noisy. These are the links that connect the shock absorber bottom housing (hub carrier) to the anti-roll (sway) bar. They are easy to replace at cost about £20 to £25 each. I have just replaced all four and noticed an improvement. H
  3. Thanks Ahsai that's good info. Could it be a problem with a common earth point? H
  4. I would have thought that there is a relay for the windows, but I don't know where it is. The main relays in my 996 are under the plate behind the rear seats. I carry spares for the "53" relay as they are quite simple switches, but I would think that the window relay has several internal circuits. H
  5. So after much thought I moved to the other side of the car and the upper end of the sway bar link came straight out, no problems. I then returned to the problem side. I disconnected the brake sensor and moved it to one side. I then heated the alloy hub carrier with a heat gun near where the pinch bolts threads through. I did this a few times with doses of WD40 in between. Took about an hour. By placing an open ended spanner on the hexagon near the ball joint I was able to get slight movement. I then cut the ball joint off with a small hacksaw. This allowed me to place a socket on the hexagon driven by a long bar. Gradually, by up and down easing, I was able to rotate the pinch bolt and then drift it out. It was absolutely embedded in locking compound. Hope this helps the next person. H
  6. I have thought about putting a cap on the end of the bolt and then placing a large socket over the cap and vibrating it with an impact wrench. I have been looking for an excuse buy an impact wrench and this might be it. H
  7. 996 C2 2003 55K miles I started to remove the front sway bar drop links, but the upper end that clamps the shock absorber stub in the hub carrier is pretty stuck. The bottom end separated from the sway bar quite easily. I have removed the clamping nut and tapped the end of the drop link bolt, but it doesn't want to move out of the alloy hub carrier. I soaked it with several sprays of penetrating oil today, but still no joy. I don't really want to take the hub carrier off and I don't want to clout the end of the bolt too hard. I am now thinking about heat. Any other ideas. Thanks H
  8. This how I tested mine: As you know the sensor is on the right side of the engine on a rubber mount wedged between intakes. Remove it and keep the wires connected. Suspend it next to an oven thermometer and heat them both with a hair drier. When the sensor reaches the required temp the fan should switch on. When you do this place something behind the sensor and thermometer to prevent the overspill warm air heating anything else. H
  9. Since owning a 996 C2 one of my problems has been with headlight adjustment. I have the dipped beam right for UK driving with the correct cut off and the dipped beam is excellent. However, the full beam has never been good. I have tried high power bulbs and now I have HID's replacing the H9's in the full beam slot. The light intensity is great, but the direction is poor. There is nothing wrong with the adjusters accessed from the trunk, but I notice that the mechanism moves both the high beam and dipped beam when the height adjuster is turned. Both the high beam and low beam reflectors move together. The consequence of this is when the dipped beam is right and gives good light for its purpose, the high beam is too low. On inspecting the internal mechanism at the back of the reflectors I did notice that of the four nuts holding the low beam mechanism in place, the lower ones on one light were not fully tightened. When I tightened them slightly I was able to close the angle between the full and dipped beam reflectors. As a result, by setting the dipped beam correctly I have managed to lift the direction of the high beam. Is there any adjustment guidance available for the internal mechanism of the lights? Obviously care must be taken with tightening the nuts on the mechanism as they close onto a plastic housing. However, if they are loose the angle between the two reflectors would be wrong. Thanks for reading H
  10. You can use the jump start post in the engine bay. These give an almost identical voltage reading to the battery terminals on my car. The earth point is near the air filter box and is one of the bolts that holds the box and the +ve terminal is inside a plastic cover on the right side of the engine bay above the p/s pump.
  11. If you have wired in the side markers to flash with the indicators there is voltage to the indicators via a back emf along your new link wire when the lights are switched on. (electricity flows in both directions along a wire away from the +ve source) If you want to link in a separate circuit like this you have to fit a voltage blocker (a diode) which only permits voltage to flow in one direction. My view would be to disconnect the extra wiring you have put in and see if everything works as normal. H
  12. Thank you Loren. I'll take a look and buy a few relays. H
  13. I know this relay group is under the carpet and behind the rear seats on the 996 2003). However, is the group underneath the horizontal plate supporting the rear shelf, or is it behind the vertical section right at the back. The reason I ask is that I have heard quite a lot about cars just stopping because of failure of the DME relay. I thought I would get a spare and know how to get to it, should it fail. Thanks for reading. H
  14. You can check if the display is recording different levels by parking the car at different angles and then checking the gauge. On my 996 it shows 1 bar down when level. Full when the back is down or tilting to the right and two bars down when tilting to the left slightly. So find a sloping parking area and some level ground and move the car around and do some checking when it's been stationary for a while.
  15. I like to see those pics if you can manage to dig them up. I repaired an electric window mechanism on a Hyundai some years back with a stop and an adjuster from a mountain bike. H
  16. If I am mot mistaken modern organic coolants are not compatible with brass fittings. If you are going to replace this fitting with a non-Porsche item I would use a plastic connector.
  17. Open the front lid. Take out the headlight assembly (the right hand light looking from the driving seat). There's a good chance you will be able to see the emergency release cable that runs from the catch towards the ait intake. Make sure it's there and that you can get to it. You might consider adding an extension so that it's easier to get to. The other option is to tackle this from the engine compartment emergency release which is under the left rear light. Remove the rear light housing to find the cable. Open the engine cover and apply a jump voltage to the jump start points in the engine bay. With voltage restored you should be able to operate the front boot lid switch. H
  18. From memory, down when cold and up when hot and under pressure, or up when I lock it in position with the clip in a vertical plane. I think the comments about the cap are correct as I was losing coolant before I replaced mine. It looked OK, but wasn't sealing. They are not expensive and I think they are VW Golf caps from about 1988. H
  19. I was having coolant loss before replacing my header tank. It was leaking from the gasket between the relief valve housing and the tank as one of the screws had corroded. I did a temporary fix with a new screw from a second hand tank. I replaced the tank with a new one and I was still having leaks until I put a new tank cap on. When the car is up to temp and the coolant level seems down it is because of the pressure in the header tank. If you remove the cap at this time the level will rise and possibly overflow. You should only check levels and fill when the car is cold. Try and do it with the front pointing downhill as you get a better chance of air bubbles rising to an outlet. Also when you check levels always do it with the car in the same position each time.
  20. I know this is a long shot, but is you car battery is fully charged?
  21. Thanks for the replies. I have done the following and the noises have disappeared. I sprayed the metalastic bushes with silicon lubricant and also the bump stops at the top of the shock absorbers. I remember having a similar problem with these types of bushes on a car many years back and I used to treat them as every service with lubricant suitable for rubber. As the noise was not present in wet weather I concluded that water was in some way acting as a lubricant. I trawled for other postings and discovered that this is quite a common problem. What foxed me was that all the joints were good and not showing any play. H
  22. I have a noisy or squeaking suspension on my 996. I thought it was coming from the back and changed the drop links and sway bar bushes. At first I thought I had solved it, but now it seems to have come back and is fairly elusive. I now think it comes from the front. The strange thing is that it does not happen when starting from cold for the first 10 miles or so and then it kicks in. It's not loud, just annoying. I cannot find anything that is loose or with unacceptable movement and the shock absorbers are working. The noise is noticeable over cobbled surfaces when travelling slowly. Could it be: Something inside the shock that starts to occur when the shock warms up? What about rubber creaking rubber bushes? Is there any means of lubricating these such as spraying with silicon lubricant? I have also noticed that the problem is not apparent after driving in wet weather, which makes me think water is acting as a lubricant for the exposed bushes on the lower suspension. Thanks for reading? H
  23. You might have placed the bumper on the wrong side of the side fixings under the lights. It is possible to do this and as a result it ends up a few mm out.
  24. A bleep like this normally indicates that something is open, like a glove box or trunk lid. Any faulty switches on these?
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