Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Hilux2400

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    458
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Hilux2400

  1. This thread is a good start: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39974-engine-identification/?hl=%2Bengine+%2Bnumber#entry246783
  2. You can get the original engine number from Porsche UK. The engine number might be in the V5. Check that it matches. If it does not post your number here and one of the pundits will tell you what you have.
  3. Where do I go to find it? Excuse my ignorance as new to this.... what info would you be able to find out about it? Cheers You will be able to tell if the engine matches the age of the car and if it is an exchange unit. Did you do an HPI check to find out if there is any outstanding debt on the car or if it has been classed as a write off?
  4. It's right about one person and a helper. One thing to watch out for is the fitting under the headlights where there is a plastic piece. If you get the cowl on the wrong side of this it sticks out. Also watch out for the emergency release wire and make sure it is working and its route is free. There are a number of options for this and it can be extended with some nylon cord to a known location behind the wheel shroud or to a point behind the pop out indicator light.
  5. Thank you. Is it possible to get at this rear seal on the IMS bearing by sump removal and then reaching in and digging it out?
  6. Is the later and larger IMS bearing, from about late 2005 onwards, also a self contained grease filled unit, or is it pressure/splash fed from the sump?
  7. Thank you for your helpful replies. I will probably reduce oil changes to 2K and keep a close watch. Keep you posted. H
  8. 2003 996 C2 Engine Number M96/03 AT 663 66759 The engine in my 996 was replaced some time in about late 2005. I have just changed the oil and inspected the filter. I attach a picture of two metal particles from the filter which can be attracted by a magnet. The "mm" scale next to the pieces shows their size. They are wafer thin and bright in colour. There was a small amount of metalised slime on the magnetic sump plug which I would have thought is fairly normal and something I have seen with other engines. This replacement engine in the car has done about 20 to 30K, but I cannot be sure of the exact mileage. The engine has done 4,800 miles since its last oil change. At the last oil change there was one metal particle in the filter measuring about 0.25" across. Would anyone care to comment and I look forward to your replies? H
  9. As I have said in other postings I have fitted a magnetic sump drain plug to my 996 and do frequent oil changes. It won't eliminate the problem, but it might give me an early warning of IMS failure. Loose ball bearings in an engine would be a killer. H
  10. Is there any way of knowing the type of bearing in these engines? I have a late 2003 996 C2 that's done 51K miles. From the history I think the engine was replaced at about 25K. The original engine number was: M96/03 663 20129 The current engine number is: M96/03 AT 665 66759 I have been unable to find out when the replacement engine was fitted. It was probably done when the car was under warranty, but what I don't know is what type of IMS bearing is in the car. Does anyone know? H
  11. I think this is a good start as the latch does not work at all. Check the fuse that controls the front latch. If it blown replace it and see if it blows when the front latch is operated. Check the wiring to the front latch for a short or continuity.
  12. Is this a recent option for an IMS fix: http://europeanpartssolution.com/products/ims-bearing-repair/ or has it been available for some time? H
  13. Came out very easily. Put stick in "D" to give some more space. Slipped my Swiss Army knife blade in along the short vertical edge and twisted slightly and out it came. Have replaced it with a rubber lined tray at a cost of £31 (Ebay). Thanks for the advice H
  14. 2003 996 C2 Hello all and could you please offer some advice on how to remove the CD storage trays, before I rush in with a knife. I could do with some extra storage in this area for odds and ends and thought this would be a useful space. When I remove it, will I be left with a hole or does it slide into a box that surrounds it? Thanks and a great site - keep it up. H l
  15. I have noticed with other vehicles varying degrees of braking efficiency with different makes of brake pad. Some years back I put some new after market pads on a car and the brakes were dreadful afterwards. I thought at first it was just the bedding in process, but they never improved. I changed them soon after. Could this be your problem? Is the quality of the pads a bit suspect? I too get the brake "bang" in the morning after the car has been idle for a day or more in conditions of high humidity.
  16. Good news. It must have cracked on the central hole and split through and then come off the crankshaft end. This would have caused loss of drive to the power steering pump. I assume the circular oil seal would also have been scored and need to be replaced. Watch out for oil leaks when you get it back.
  17. You have to take off the front cowl. There's a good tutorial to follow. It's easy to do but a bit fiddly. It helps if there are two persons to put in back together.
  18. I'm a 996 man and I have to say in view of the tendancies of the electronic oil gauge to give odd reading, I don't think I would buy a car that does not have an oil dipstick.
  19. My car also smokes on start up if it has been left for several days. Depending on "which side down" I leave it, that is the exhaust bank that smokes. I liken it to my ageing brushcutter motorised lawnmower which also has a horizontal bore. If I leave the mower parked for a week or two with the cylinder head down hill it smokes on start up. If I leave it parked with the cylinder head up hill it does not smoke on start up. The reason is that the residual splash lubrication in the bore seeps past the piston and into the combustion chamber if it is parked cylinder head down. This is blown out on start up and takes about 30 seconds to clear. The horizontal bores of the Porsche act in a similar way if one side slopes down for a long period at rest. The small amount of residual oil on the bores seeps past the piston and is then blown out on start up. This does not happen with a car that has vertical cylinders as the oil goes down and back to the sump.
  20. That's fascinating. I remember in one of my early cars (1957 Morris) having a fuel problem with the car stopping every ten miles or so for no apparent reason. I eventually discovered, quite by accident, when filling up with fuel near my home that I could not take off the fuel filler cap. It was held on by a vacuum in the tank. The cause was a blocked vent hole in the filler cap. Things have moved on, but the old problems seemed easier to solve.
  21. I find one of the worst trouble spots is the back and bottom of the front wheel arch just where the wing opening meets the sill. There is no protection here from grit thrown up from the wheels and the paint is just blasted off the metal. My car is silver in colour and a very close match for silver Smooth Hammerite paint which can be applied to bare metal. I have taken to painting a small patch here, not allowing the Hammerite paint to come so far out that it is an obvious touch up.
  22. Cruise through the tutorials from the headers at the top of the home page. There is lots of good stuff there about all sorts of models with advice on how to do specific jobs and the tools that are needed. Having read those take a look under your car and under the bonnet to try and identify the various components. Take on one job at a time.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.