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dporto

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Everything posted by dporto

  1. dporto
    ^^^ My thoughts exactly^^^ That screw you lost is probably in one of the drains (if it fell down under the battery area). get yourself a long magnet (neodymium - strong and lightweight) on a flexible shaft and get it out of there...
  2. dporto
    That's interesting! I'm surprised this is possible, but perhaps I shouldn't be... I always take photo's when taking things apart...😉
  3. dporto
    Just drain the oil and re-filter (fine mesh paint filter works great - go to your nearest paint seller and get a few) before putting back in your motor - No need to throw away perfectly good oil.😉
  4. dporto
    Have you checked your brake fluid level?
  5. dporto
    Hmmm... Manufacturers are not responsible for maintaining your car - period. These are maintenance issues regardless of whether you claim "the car has been maintained PERFECTLY" (ooo, why does that sound familiar?). Unless you're able to show that a majority of 2xxx Porsche C4S are having the same/similar corrosion problems (i.e. it's a manufacturers defect or a materials defect) there will be no re-call. In fact, there are probably fewer recalls than there should be, even of "real" issues. While the things you show are certainly annoying (and in the case of the strut - potentially dangerous) I think your chances of getting Porsche to help you out are slim to none. No go replace those struts and enjoy driving your car! 👍
  6. dporto
    I believe the idle spec. is 750 - 780 rpm after initial high idle period (around 1100 rpm). If it's idling below that and roughly, I'd look for an air/vacuum leak. For your misfires you should check/replace (with emphasis on replace) your injectors. They're notorious for leaking - which can lead to serious bore scoring problems. Do not have them "re-built" as they will fail again in short order (there's no such thing as a true rebuild - they just clean them and change the O rings). Good luck
  7. dporto
    I can't comment on the Koni's, as I have a C4 and they don't make a package for it. I've got Bilstein B8's with H&R sport springs. So much better than stock in both looks and handling! The ride is slightly harsher than stock (stiffer less roll also) but nod "bad" IMO. Obviously, my idea of good or bad may differ sharply from yours. In my case, my stock suspension was (as I learned after installing new components) pretty much shot. Even though the car still handled "great" (IMO at the time), it had quite a few rattles, squeaks and clunks. Though it was a little stiffer after the change, all the other stuff was gone (there are other components that cause noises as well - notably lower control arms, both coffins and wishbones) and even though it's "stiff" it soaks up bumps better than the worn out stock shocks/struts. Good Luck
  8. dporto
    4.5 - 5 bar when cold is not unusual. The engine doesn't have to be at "operating temperature" to drain the coolant/soap suds... It sounds like you're conflating several different issues and chasing your tail in circles. A good rule of thumb when troubleshooting is to deal with one issue at a time, until it's 1) identified, and 2) resolved. Don't move onto the next issue or replace parts that aren't identified as bad/broken as you'll just confuse yourself more, and possibly be throwing money away...
  9. dporto
    If it's a coolant leak on the passenger side it could be from the oil cooler/heat exchanger (top right side of engine looking from the rear). It seems by the look of things, that it would really have to be spraying out of there to wind up dripping down to the exhaust bracket and header like it is. Otherwise it would be sitting on top of the crankcase and spilling over on left hand turns...
  10. dporto
    Be careful not to overfill the oil. These engines are super sensitive to over-filling. "Full" on both the electronic gauge and the dipstick is verging on "over-full" - the middle of the gauge and/or dipstick is a much better place.
  11. dporto
    What's your oil level - both on the electronic gauge and the dipstick?
  12. dporto
    It'd be a good idea to get a Porsche specific scanner (Durametric comes to mind). Rich and/or lean running conditions are really bad for the M96 platform and can/will lead to much bigger problems. I recommend reading up on them (without hyping the potential horrors) before throwing money/plastic at the problem(s). Proper diagnosis will save you big $ in the long run. Good luck
  13. dporto
    "it's always a good idea to solder and shield (i.e. heat shrink tubing) at each break in the line." That's not "sheilding" but insulation... but you knew that already! 😉
  14. dporto
    Bose speakers usually need a dedicated (proprietary) dsp unit to sound any good - if your system isn't Bose don't even consider using their speakers. You also need to remember that the "door speakers" are actually subs (they're crossed over to deliver only low frequencies). There are several speakers available that will fit in the door enclosures with minimal mods. One that comes to mind is the Tang Band 5 1/4"... there are a few others, but the Tangs seem to be popular
  15. dporto
    Any noises, tapping?
  16. dporto
    👍 better late than never... Nice sentiment 😊
  17. dporto
    The 911 is known for it's stiff chassis (obviously the Targa and Cabrio aren't quite as stiff as the coupe's and C4's/turbos - but still quite stiff by most standards). I'd be more concerned if the front wheel wasn't "lifting" (it's not really lifting - it's staying level with the other front wheel)) and conforming to the ground (which would mean the chassis was twisting)...
  18. dporto
    If you haven't already, it'd be a good idea to get a hold of the Bentley service manual (101 projects for your 996 by Pelican Parts - not as thorough as Bentley). I've only removered the intake runners after I dropped the engine, so I can't speak directly to your situation. I can tell you this - it's going to be a pain in the butt! You might be better off dropping the engine at least a few inches...Good luck
  19. dporto
    It's certainly a good/fair question. FSI tends to be extremely attentive to detail. I doubt something as simple as this would get by them - I know when they do a Stage II rebuild they check/balance all the turning masses (crank, fly-wheel, etc.). I'm sure they'd be willing to give you a definitive answer if you give them a call.
  20. dporto
    Sunset Porsche has always come through for me. My only complaint is that their shipping seems a little high sometimes... Not really a big deal. I find it a little hard to believe that with today's package tracking systems it would be very difficult to resolve a situation where you didn't receive something you paid for...?
  21. dporto
    Sorry, I can't help you with the operation - ie. "going bananas". My suggestion would be to either replace those "plastic wheels" or replace the light with a known working one and see if it seems to work properly. There are "level sensors" on the front drivers side and the rear passenger side that feed the Litronic adjusters.
  22. dporto
    ?? Good luck - let us know how it goes
  23. dporto
    Just a guess...Broken/worn adjustment teeth? ?
  24. dporto
    I think the Michelin PS2's or PS2 Cup are the defacto standard for (warm weather) track use.
  25. dporto
    The "mechanic" clearly knows little or nothing about the M96 (as JFP has pointed out in a low key manner). When you say "Heads actually look good, but at a minimum I would have them done along with..." What exactly do you mean?
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