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Removing and installing the engine drive belt

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Removing and installing the engine drive belt

Removing the engine drive belt 1. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly (1). - Undo hexagon head bolt M6 x 34. - Undo the hose clamp on the throttle body. - Remove the connector for the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and remove air cleaner assembly. 2. Loosen servo pump wheel (2). - Mark belt travel direction with a colored pen (if you are going to re-use the belt). - Undo the three hexagon head bolts on the servo pump by approx. one half turn. 3. Rel


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  • 1 year later...

Symptoms - squealing after starting in heavy rain, getting generator fault.

Mine was stretched and about 2" longer than the new one when the two were stretched out (5 years had taken its toll)! Took me about 25 minutes, the belt cost $26. Some photos during installation.






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  • 10 months later...

Thanks to Loren for a great write up and to Danyol for great photographs. I changed my drive belt this past week and would like to add a few things I learned along the way.

1- getting the belt off is significantly easier than getting the new belt on!

2- leave the new belt in the sun so it will warm up and be a little easier to stretch while getting on.

3- I needed a second person to help pull the tensioner while I slipped the belt on the last pulley.

4- I was able to do this without removing the servo pump wheel.

Thanks again


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  • 1 year later...

How does one move the pulley tensioner? It has a nut welded to the fitting on the upper right side of the pulley (this can clearly be seen in the top left photo in this forum). Does one turn this (it does not look like it) or does one turn the large nut in the center of the pulley? I've got the airbox out and ready to go but, well, anything I break is expensive so I thought I would ask.



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The adjuster pully is on a spring loaded arm, you do not loosen anything. If I remember correctly it requires a 22 MM socket on a long ratchet or breaker bar. You can also use one of the special serpentine belt tools as well. With the belt installed you will be able to see which direction the arm needs to swing to loosen the belt. Installation is the reverse. Really quite easy and should take you no more than 20-30 minutes the first time you do it.

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  • 1 year later...

I tried this yesterday using a dayco 5060900 belt, i couldn't get the new belt on. I tried slipping it on on both the tensioner pulley and the deflection one by the alternator with no luck.

I ended up putting the old belt back on, which went on fairly easily because it's stretched and needs to be replaced.

Any suggestions on how to put it on more easily?

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  • 1 year later...

I forgot to tighten the bolts on the servo pulley, and it gave an almighty clatter. Just a pointer if you get the same noise, check the bolts are tight...

You use a 15mm socket on the small black nut on the tensioner arm, not the 24mm nut on the tensioner pulley itself.

Doing it this way you can easily do it yourself.

I also found it easier to slip the belt over the alternator and then over the lower roller last of all, as the alternator pulley has a ridge on it, whereas the roller pulley below the alternator is smooth so the belt slips over it easily. It's actually #8 (the last step) in the diagram. If you follow those numbers it goes on easy.

(It's not too clear from the diagram that the numbers indicate the fitting order).


An easy and worthwhile job to do.

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  • 1 month later...

After you remove the belt, it is a great time to remove the idler rollers and lubricate them. Use fine steel wool to knock off the crud from the bolts. Do not remove the coating on the bolt. Then use lithium grease, graphite, or molybenum to lubricate the bolt and bronze bushing. Use only a smear. The roller should spin noticeably better.

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