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Window has a mind of it's own


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For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

Edited by 2Fast996
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Does anyone know or have any experience with this problem?

Although I have not seen the window dropping all the way down problem that you describe, the other part (glass not dropping down the requisite 1/2 inch, although you can hear the window motor turning for a split second) definitely sounds like the classic window regulator problem.

From the symptoms that you describe, it's a classic case of stretched, crumpled, or otherwise broken window regulator. If you have tried the window reset procedure and it has not yielded any results, it's 99% sure that you must replace the window regulator to get that magic 1/2 inch drop. (The reset procedure: press window up button until window reaches top, then hold the button for another 5 seconds, do the same with the window in the down position, pressing the down button, etc.)

If you must replace the window regulator, it's a very straightforward procedure. Here are some tips to be aware of before proceeding:

Four things to keep in mind:

1. Most of the oem replacement regulators come with a small plastic bag of parts that is contained inside the larger plastic bag which encases the regulator. That bag contains a small bump stop that must be attached to the higher of the two bottom square holes on the forwardmost leg (the lower bump stop is for 996/997).

2. Be sure to mark (with a sharpie or similar) the footprint of the old regulator legs where they sit on the bottom (horizontal) surface of the door. That will help you avoid having to later make an adjustment to get the glass in the proper plane (inboard to outboard slant adjustment).

3. Raise the window almost to its uppermost position so that you can access the two torx screws (that must be loosened to release the glass window from its clamping brackets) through the hole provided for that purpose. One in front, one towards the rear, covered by black rubber plugs.

4. Do not clean the two areas near the bottom of each glass window where the clamping brackets are attached to the window. You can use the "dirt marks" as one of the guides as to where the window should be re-attached to the new regulator clamping brackets. The other guide is the forward bottom angled corner of the glass.

Here is a link that will help you remove the door panels: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

Here is a link that will explain how the regulators go bad (see posts 1,2 & 3 specifically):

http://www.renntech.org/forums/inde...showtopic=16269

Good luck!

Regards, schoir (Maurice).

Edited by 1schoir
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1schoir,

Thank you for the very informative reply. I will be ordering the regulator this week.

Jared

Jared:

As the window regulators come in different states of readiness (referring to the bump stops only), make sure that yours does not have the TWO bump stops already installed.

If it does, just remove the upper one. If you get the extra bump stop parts (rivet or screw, plastic bump stop and little rubber sleeve for the bump stop), just don't install the parts for that one and you will have the correct height for your 996 when the window is at its lowest point. Otherwise it will remain about 1 and 1/2 inches not retracted into the door.

Here is a photo of the two bump stops at the base of the forwardmost leg of the regulator. post-6627-1193283582_thumb.jpg Circled in red is the upper one (that I was in the process of installing for my Boxster, showing the rivet inserted and the bump stop and rubber sleeve on the side). Do not install that one, or remove it if it comes already installed.

Circled in green (and marked 996) is the only one that should be present for your correct install.

One other point. The link I gave you for the door panel removal is for Boxsters, but it's either exactly the same or very similar for 996's.

The only tricky part in removing the door panel without breaking any parts involves the inner door handle cover/surround. I found that to avoid breaking off the tab that almost everyone reports breaking, it helps if you press downwards hard on that part near its rearmost TOP SURFACE and then, after sticking the small screwdriver in from underneath at the front to pull the bottom away slightly, ROTATE that part UP and it will come off without damage.

Good Luck, and if you run into any roadblocks or need more photos, let us know.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

i am having almost the same exact problem. however, my window made a grinding noise as it was being raised and lowered. i had to try about six times to get it to close. kind of disappointing with only 6k miles on the clock. taking it to the shop today. i'll let you know what they say.

typhon

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For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

i am having almost the same exact problem. however, my window made a grinding noise as it was being raised and lowered. i had to try about six times to get it to close. kind of disappointing with only 6k miles on the clock. taking it to the shop today. i'll let you know what they say.

typhon

Typhon:

In your case, it sounds like your regulator cable fraying, rather that the outer sheath crumpling. Kind of surprising with only 6K miles, though. Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

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For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

i am having almost the same exact problem. however, my window made a grinding noise as it was being raised and lowered. i had to try about six times to get it to close. kind of disappointing with only 6k miles on the clock. taking it to the shop today. i'll let you know what they say.

typhon

Typhon:

In your case, it sounds like your regulator cable fraying, rather that the outer sheath crumpling. Kind of surprising with only 6K miles, though. Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

got it back today. regulator was toast. new one cost me $198 labor $259.67 for the regulator. works like a champ.

typhon

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For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

i am having almost the same exact problem. however, my window made a grinding noise as it was being raised and lowered. i had to try about six times to get it to close. kind of disappointing with only 6k miles on the clock. taking it to the shop today. i'll let you know what they say.

typhon

Typhon:

In your case, it sounds like your regulator cable fraying, rather that the outer sheath crumpling. Kind of surprising with only 6K miles, though. Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

got it back today. regulator was toast. new one cost me $198 labor $259.67 for the regulator. works like a champ.

typhon

Typhon:

Thanks for the update.

Regards, Maurice.

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1schoir mentioned ..."If you have tried the window reset"

I searched out this thread hoping to learn something about the automatic window adjustment feature and how to reset it following a power interruption. Could you please elaborate on the window reset and exactly how to perform it?

My battery went dead yesterday while having a new windshield installed. After it was recharged the windows won't automatically adjust with the opening a closing of the doors. I believe this window reset is the answer but apparently I'm not doing it correctly to fix the problem.

thanks

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1schoir mentioned ..."If you have tried the window reset"

I searched out this thread hoping to learn something about the automatic window adjustment feature and how to reset it following a power interruption. Could you please elaborate on the window reset and exactly how to perform it?

My battery went dead yesterday while having a new windshield installed. After it was recharged the windows won't automatically adjust with the opening a closing of the doors. I believe this window reset is the answer but apparently I'm not doing it correctly to fix the problem.

thanks

Doug:

If you disconnect the battery, the regulator loses its reference point for the closed position. You have to "reset" the windows whenever power to the window motors is interrupted.

In order to reset, with the convertible top fully closed, press the button to raise the window to its highest position, then keep the power window switch pressed down for a further 5 to 10 seconds. If necessary, repeat with the window all the way down, but I believe it's only necessary to do it with the window all the way up.

Regards, Maurice.

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In order to reset, with the convertible top fully closed, press the button to raise the window to its highest position, then keep the power window switch pressed down for a further 5 to 10 seconds. If necessary, repeat with the window all the way down, but I believe it's only necessary to do it with the window all the way up.

Regards, Maurice.

apparently this reset has worked for the passenger side and may have reset the driver's side but...the driver's side is a different story. The window is coming down 1/2 inch or as it should for the automatic function so but then it pops right back up before the door can be closed. It is behaving this way when activated by either the inside or outside door handle. In order to allow the door to close properly the window needs to be gapped down.

thoughts?

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  • 1 month later...

OK, finally getting some time to change this thing and step one is causing some problems.

How do I remove the inside door pull trim? I have full leather and do not want to damage anything.

History ... I have a bad habit of forcing things until they break and I do not want a re-occurrence on my full leather trim.

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OK, finally getting some time to change this thing and step one is causing some problems.

How do I remove the inside door pull trim? I have full leather and do not want to damage anything.

History ... I have a bad habit of forcing things until they break and I do not want a re-occurrence on my full leather trim.

2fast:

This is the only piece that is a little tricky to remove without breaking off a tab that helps to hold it in place.

Looking from underneath the plastic cover, you'll notice a small indentation in the center, towards the front of that piece.

You can work a small flathead screwdriver in there at the appropriate time, and, at that time, you can gently just separate it slightly from its contact surface with the door panel. First, though, put some significant pressure on the top (horizontal) rearmost surface of that plastic piece. Then, work the small flathead screwdriver in the indentation from underneath to separate it and then grab the whole plastic piece and rotate it upwards, pulling the bottom towards you and up, WHILE KEEPING THE DOWNWARD PRESSURE ON THE TOP REARMOST HORIZONTAL SURFACE OF THE PIECE. Note that the pressing down while rotating the piece is what keeps the small tab that is under that section from breaking.

From what I have read, they break 50% of the time, but if you do it this way, they will not break.

After you remove that piece and inspect it, you will see how the whole thing works.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the door panel off. Thanks to all for your input on that little task.

Am I correct in assuming that everything must be removed from the door such as airbag and speaker assembly? What are you guys using to replace / repair the gray liner after cutting into it?

Edited by 2Fast996
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I have the door panel off. Thanks to all for your input on that little task.

Am I correct in assuming that everything must be removed from the door such as airbag and speaker assembly? What are you guys using to replace / repair the gray liner after cutting into it?

Jared:

Airbag and speaker assembly should be removed for easier access. That will facilitate removal of the old window regulator assembly and installation of the new one.

Do not cut the gray liner. It's easy to remove it, especially if you heat it up around its perimeter with a heat gun (or a hair dryer). Don't apply too much heat as you may burn through. Once it's softened up, it will pull off the metal easily with slow and steady pulling pressure.

I found it easiest to just pull off the top edge and the left and right sides, while leaving it attached along the bottom edge. If you do it that way, you won't have to struggle to line it up exactly right again, it will naturally attach back exactly where it was.

Be careful not to get any tears in the liner, as rain water can migrate into the passenger compartment from behind the door panel and cause you small headaches from a wet carpet or big headaches from a flooded Alarm Conrol Unit ($$$$$) under the driver's seat.

Also, be sure to disconnect the battery (negative terminal) AND pull the key out of the ignition, then wait at least one minute before disconnecting the airbag. DO NOT PUT THE KEY BACK IN THE IGNITION or reconnect the battery until the airbag is reconnected and everything is closed up, or you will get the dreaded airbag light (which can only be reset with PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric).

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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That's it!!!! :angry:

I appreciate all of your assistance with regards to this matter however, it goes to the stealer this week.

I have run out of time and patience on this task. The dealer is telling me that it is the motor; which I know is probably BS however, I ordered a new motor to go along with the regulator and both will be changed. I usually change everything associated with any problem anyway to avoid future inconveniences. This will be the case here but I will not be doing the work; this time.

I have worked on my own BMWs for nearly twenty years and I have now been thwarted.

Thank God the human body makes more sense to me or I wouldn't have a job.

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That's it!!!! :angry:

I appreciate all of your assistance with regards to this matter however, it goes to the stealer this week.

I have run out of time and patience on this task. The dealer is telling me that it is the motor; which I know is probably BS however, I ordered a new motor to go along with the regulator and both will be changed. I usually change everything associated with any problem anyway to avoid future inconveniences. This will be the case here but I will not be doing the work; this time.

I have worked on my own BMWs for nearly twenty years and I have now been thwarted.

Thank God the human body makes more sense to me or I wouldn't have a job.

Jared:

Sorry to hear you are giving up. In removing the door panel, you had accomplished the toughest part of the job.

The motors very rarely go bad, even on very high mileage cars.

I started out on BMW's too (still have my 72 2002 tii that I bought new), and find these Porsches different to work on, but with a little persistence and the help from these boards, almost any of these jobs is doable...and rewarding.

Maybe you'll have a change of heart after you've been away from it for a couple of days. Considering it should only take about an hour now to change out the regulator, plus the time to re-install the door panel, it's a shame the dealer is going to be making out like a bandit. You've done all the hard work for him.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 6 months later...

Hi guys, my MY99c2cab windows have squeeked for months. today the passenger window sounds like it knocking when the motor goes up and down. the symptoms fall right in line with the stuff described above.

My question is if the biniding or fraying cable snaps, will the window be stuck in the postion or will it drop in the track?

thanks

PJ

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