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Litronic flicker trouble shooting


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Howdy all once again,

2001 boxster s

I guess I'm not immune to the flickering low beam troubles others have had with their litronics either. The first symptoms were of course, the flicker. Could coach the light by rotating the headlight switch, and/or hitting the high beams, but now of course, they won't ignite at all...Until last night...

After reading various posts here and on the boards, I ruled out the ground, the lights (D2S 85123), and the connections in the front, as well as the fuses. (Both lights were being affected)

So I began to look at the headlight switch area next to the ignition... I notice that there are two "star" screws located on the left side of the dash unit that makes up the heating/cooling vent and the Headlight Switch (H.S.), as well as a "mini-cover" to the imed. left of the H.S. - I don't know what the feature/option would be if it was there.

After removing the two screws, and the mini-cover, I gently pulled on that section of the dash until I felt it disengage a tad, and then I pushed it back in place. I would like to remove that section, but of course I don't want to damage it either... Frustrated about what to do next, I thought I'd try the lights again, and lo-and-behold, the low-beams came on without a hitch.

Multiple on-and-off checks showed no further problem with the low-beams...

After I drove home, I was inspired enough to give the car a gentle wash... to be followed by a medium-to-high-spirited blow-dry B)

:huh:

Went to take 'er for the drive, and guess what...no low-beams.

So, fellow 'sters is the culprit the ignition switch or the headlight switch on the dash?

If the headlight switch on the dash should be checked first, is there any DIY on safely removing that portion of the dash so I can inspect that?

If it's the ignition switch, I've already bookmarked that.

Thanks for any input...

David

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Update...

Finally found the thread for getting to/replacing the headlight switch for those that need to know in the future:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry14800

duh...ac vent removal...

Anyhow...

Once the vent was off, I could test the switch. Low beams were still off. I give the switch a tiny whack and the low beams come on. Turn the switch off again, then on, Low beams are off again. 'nother whack and they are on again.

I'd upload a pic but everytime I buy a camera my son borrows it and I never see it again...Good thing I never taught him how to drive a stick. :P

The posts appear to have a bit of corrosion, and my contact cleaner is at work. So a wee bit of crest and an emory cloth will have to do for now...if that doesn't work until a new part comes in, guess I'll have to keep whackin it off :huh: ...err on.

d

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had the same problem a few months back. The solution was the point in the electrical system shared by both left and right sides; the headlight switch or the ignition switch. The headlight switch won.

The illuminated ring around the headlight switch is delicate and finicky to assemble, take your time.

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  • 5 months later...
I had the same problem a few months back. The solution was the point in the electrical system shared by both left and right sides; the headlight switch or the ignition switch. The headlight switch won.

The illuminated ring around the headlight switch is delicate and finicky to assemble, take your time.

My litronics weren't turning on this weekend, and were just doing the flicker thing. I pulled the switch. I didn't feel like waiting a week for the part to come, so I just took the switch itself apart (not easy to do) and cleaned the contacts. I didn't find anything obviously wrong with it, but after putting it back in, I've turned the lights on and off about 30 times today and so far so good. I suppose it could have just been the contacts on the plug that needed to be scraped.

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My litronics weren't turning on this weekend, and were just doing the flicker thing. I pulled the switch. I didn't feel like waiting a week for the part to come, so I just took the switch itself apart (not easy to do) and cleaned the contacts. I didn't find anything obviously wrong with it, but after putting it back in, I've turned the lights on and off about 30 times today and so far so good. I suppose it could have just been the contacts on the plug that needed to be scraped.

I just verified my problem to be switch related and I just saw you post regarding cleaning the switch itself. What was involved? The dealer tells me $123 for the switch alone. I've nothing to loose by trying to clean it first. Thanks.

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  • Admin
My litronics weren't turning on this weekend, and were just doing the flicker thing. I pulled the switch. I didn't feel like waiting a week for the part to come, so I just took the switch itself apart (not easy to do) and cleaned the contacts. I didn't find anything obviously wrong with it, but after putting it back in, I've turned the lights on and off about 30 times today and so far so good. I suppose it could have just been the contacts on the plug that needed to be scraped.

I just verified my problem to be switch related and I just saw you post regarding cleaning the switch itself. What was involved? The dealer tells me $123 for the switch alone. I've nothing to loose by trying to clean it first. Thanks.

Have you checked the switch price at Sunset Porsche (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost)?

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I just verified my problem to be switch related and I just saw you post regarding cleaning the switch itself. What was involved? The dealer tells me $123 for the switch alone. I've nothing to loose by trying to clean it first. Thanks.

It wasn't easy to open. The switch is crimped closed and I had to use some fairly specialized pliers to un-crimp it. (I own a motorcycle shop, so I've got a lot of tools). Re-crimping it was hard too. I had to use a large socket and a large vice to hold it together while I re-crimped.

I'd try un-plugging it and plugging it back in. I'm still thinking the odds are better than 50/50 that I didn't accomplish anything by opening it, and that the real fix was unplugging it and plugging it back in.

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I just verified my problem to be switch related and I just saw you post regarding cleaning the switch itself. What was involved? The dealer tells me $123 for the switch alone. I've nothing to loose by trying to clean it first. Thanks.

It wasn't easy to open. The switch is crimped closed and I had to use some fairly specialized pliers to un-crimp it. (I own a motorcycle shop, so I've got a lot of tools). Re-crimping it was hard too. I had to use a large socket and a large vice to hold it together while I re-crimped.

I'd try un-plugging it and plugging it back in. I'm still thinking the odds are better than 50/50 that I didn't accomplish anything by opening it, and that the real fix was unplugging it and plugging it back in.

I did not have the success you had. I managed to take apart the switch and, like yourself, found nothing obviously wrong. I sprayed some contact cleaner inside the switch only as I did not want to remove the lower portion. Everything went back together fine. I used a screwdriver and a light tap of a hammer to help me re-crimp the switch.

Unfortunately, no real change. I still have to strike the switch, from the fog light position, to get the lights to turn on and they still do with lesser pressure though. After reading your post, I completely forgot to clean the connector (female) end. I simply scrapped the exterior posts at the switch. I will try this later this eve. Thanks again.

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I did not have the success you had. I managed to take apart the switch and, like yourself, found nothing obviously wrong. I sprayed some contact cleaner inside the switch only as I did not want to remove the lower portion. Everything went back together fine. I used a screwdriver and a light tap of a hammer to help me re-crimp the switch.

Unfortunately, no real change. I still have to strike the switch, from the fog light position, to get the lights to turn on and they still do with lesser pressure though. After reading your post, I completely forgot to clean the connector (female) end. I simply scrapped the exterior posts at the switch. I will try this later this eve. Thanks again.

I just remembered an additional step I performed. I have a set of tiny files, and I slid it into each set of points and filed them a little. At the time, it really felt like I was doing more damage than good, since I was sort of roughing up two surfaces that looked clean and smooth, and I didn't see how it was helping. The only reason I kept going was because I couldn't find anything else to change and I knew the switch wouldn't be any better if I didn't change something. My switch still seems to be working, but I only drive it on weekends so I haven't tested it that much (the motorcycle serves as transportation).

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I did not have the success you had. I managed to take apart the switch and, like yourself, found nothing obviously wrong. I sprayed some contact cleaner inside the switch only as I did not want to remove the lower portion. Everything went back together fine. I used a screwdriver and a light tap of a hammer to help me re-crimp the switch.

Unfortunately, no real change. I still have to strike the switch, from the fog light position, to get the lights to turn on and they still do with lesser pressure though. After reading your post, I completely forgot to clean the connector (female) end. I simply scrapped the exterior posts at the switch. I will try this later this eve. Thanks again.

I just remembered an additional step I performed. I have a set of tiny files, and I slid it into each set of points and filed them a little. At the time, it really felt like I was doing more damage than good, since I was sort of roughing up two surfaces that looked clean and smooth, and I didn\'t see how it was helping. The only reason I kept going was because I couldn\'t find anything else to change and I knew the switch wouldn\'t be any better if I didn\'t change something. My switch still seems to be working, but I only drive it on weekends so I haven\'t tested it that much (the motorcycle serves as transportation).

I works! I took apart the switch once more (what a pain!)... I don\'t have a tiny file but I simply used a tiny screwdriver (#0 flat head). I gently opened and scrapped all contacts twice. One of them must have had an excessive build-up, due to arcing, caused by years of being turned on & off.

Below is a photo I took while scraping one of those contacts.

Thanks for your help!

(Below you will see a small screwdriver between one of the 7 contacts.)

post-35410-1255750689_thumb.jpg

Edited by rprieto
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  • 1 month later...

Sounds like for most people, it's the headlight switch. I replaced my headlight switch a few months ago. No difference unless Sunset sold me a 'dud' switch. Any more ideas? Like a lot of others, it's both Litronics not firing. Going to high beams a few times usually does the trick, but this is pissing me off.

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