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996 DIY Starter Motor Replacement

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I've done some searching, but can't seem to find a good 996 starter motor replacement DIY. I read on this forum that the starter can be replaced from the top of the engine, but that it may or may not require removing the alternator. I've found a 993 DIY where the starter motor is accessed through the passengers side wheel well. Any practical advice out there (short of taking it to the dealer!)? Car is a 2000 Carrera w/49k miles.

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1. Disconnect the battery and cover the terminal or battery. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly.

2. Disconnect the line from the tank venting valve and the electrical plug connection. Disconnect the electrical plug connections at the idle speed positioner and throttle potentiometer.

3. Disengage accelerator cable and remove throttle body. Pull off vacuum check valve.

4. Disconnect the vent line for the oil separator at the intake distributor. Undo all hose clamps (4 ea.) at the intake distributor and push the rubber sleeves to the side. Pull out intake distributor to the rear.

5. Pullback protective cap on the starter cable and undo cable terminal 30 (M8)and terminal 50 (M6)at the starter.

6. Undo the upper fastening screw. To do this, use the following 3/8 inch tool: 3 long extensions, cross handle, universal joint and hexagon socket wrench insert a/f 15. The joints can be secured using adhesive tape.

7. Undo the lower fastening screw from the right generator mounting side.

8. Carefully remove the starter from the engine compartment to the rear.


Tightening torques:

Terminal 30 Nut -- M8 15 Nm (11 ftlb.)

Terminal 50 Nut -- M66.5 Nm (5 ftlb.)

Hexagon-head bolt -- M10 45 Nm (33 ftlb.)

1. The angled cable lug of terminal 50 (M6) faces in driving direction (transmission) after assembly.

2. Carefully center the intake distributor. Push both rubber sleeves onto the intake distributor up to the marking (line) and secure (2 hose clamps).

3. Check bore in the rubber sleeves for check valve and vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator for clear passage.

4. Engage accelerator cable and install throttle body. Fit fastening screw M6 x 20 at the bottom right.

5. Tighten the outer hose clamps of the rubber sleeve after securing the throttle body on the hydraulic pump housing. The throttle body must not contact the hydraulic pump housing.

6. The intake system must be checked for leaks after assembly (visual inspection).

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  • 9 months later...

Just changed the starter on my '99 911 and wanted to add a few things.

Starter was slow to turn then progressed to screeching noise on start-up when cold. I ordered a remanufactured starter from suncoast for ~$630 with a $500 core refund, so essentially got a new starter for $130. A great deal IMO.


3: Mark proper orientation of the throttle cable mounting bracket to the throttle body. The mount is sloped and can only properly be installed in one orientation (downward sloping towards you)

6/7: For the starter mounting bolts I was able to use just a single 2ft extension. The lower bolt looks tricky, but is easily accessible from underneath the alternator mounting bracket. I loosened the main belt and removed the alternator belt tensioner to insert the extension, then attached the socket. You MIGHT be able to get away with several smaller extensions.

New unit works great! I wish I'd done it sooner since it was pretty cheap and easy job.



Edited by Fissionx
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  • 1 month later...

Broke down and did the deed today. Thanks for the help gentlemen. Not nearly as daunting as I had feared. A couple of comments. The 2ft extension and the universal joint are the HOT TICKET! Allows for access to both starter mounting bolts with relative ease.

My car is a 2000 C2, and as such a drive-by-wire car eliminating step 3.

All in all, much easier than I feared. My 15 year old son and I did it in less than 3 hours, including a run to Sears for the 2' extension!

Good luck for others that might need to give this a whirl.

Thanks again,


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  • 6 years later...

That cable can give you low charging voltage (<13.2)v or hard start problem. Lots of people have that replaced with the latest updated cable.

The cable can look shinny but it still has significant voltage drop.


Make sure you check out this thread for a very simple way to remove the cable without undoing the a/c compressor.



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