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I'm replacing my clutch using the sach's clutch kit. The gearbox has been removed but I have not removed the pressure plate or the clutch yet. Do I need to replace the bolts which attach the pressure plate to the dual mass flywheel?

When removing the pressure plate as I do not have the porsche special tools, can anyone give some light on an alternative to stop it turning whilst un-screwing the 6 bolts?

Also as I do not have a porsche centring manderal can I use a universal clutch alignment tool when fitting the new clutch?

regards

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Just replaced the clutch on my friends 04 996 and my 99 996.

You do not have to replace the pressure plate bolts.

You will have no problem unscrewing the pressure plate bolts because they are not that tight nor are they required to be that tight. I do not remember the torque for these but it is low.

You definitely need a clutch centering tool that fits. We made one out of wood on a lathe the fit perfect. If the disk, pressure plate and pilot bearing are not aligned perfectly you will not get the transmission back in.

The first time it took use an hour to get the transmission back in (but this was because we took it off the transmission jack and didn’t put it back in the same position) the second time it slid right in.

Good luck

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I just completed a tranny in / out to put in the AASCO light flywheel. What a difference 15 lbs make! Engine revs more quickly and the car seems to be accelerating faster.

I used a simple clutch alignment tool from Kingsborne Automotive that I can highly recommend (no affliliation here): http://www.clutchtools.com/index.php?productID=40065

It says its for the Boxster but works fine on a 2000 996 C2. I assume that is the case on later models a well (Loren?).

Regards, Joost

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I've removed the pressure plate and clutch, and there is no rms leak but a load of clutch dust.

How can I tell whether I need to replace the Dual mass flywheel? It looks like it has a few burn marks on it and when I run my finger along the surface of it, I can feel a slight lip where the clutch disc presses against it.

By the way my car is a 1998 C2 with 43,000 miles and it was remapped by previous owner to 320bhp.

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I've removed the pressure plate and clutch, and there is no rms leak but a load of clutch dust.

How can I tell whether I need to replace the Dual mass flywheel? It looks like it has a few burn marks on it and when I run my finger along the surface of it, I can feel a slight lip where the clutch disc presses against it.

By the way my car is a 1998 C2 with 43,000 miles and it was remapped by previous owner to 320bhp.

Hi,

I've searched the forum and Loren refers to the TSB 8/02 1360 Dual Mass Flywheel Check Procedure, I can't access them yet, can anyone help as I need to get back into my car, its been out of action now for a couple of weeks as I've been putting off the clutch replacement.

thanks in advance

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(PS) I would not replace the flywheel unless it is proven to not function, is extremely scorched, is grooved, or the clutch chattered (or for piece of mind) or you have some extra cash.

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I followed the TSB instructions to check for free play in DMF and its fine. I've taken some pics of the DMF

post-9066-1210543385_thumb.jpg

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I followed the TSB instructions to check for free play in DMF and its fine. I've taken some pics of the DMF

post-9066-1210543495_thumb.jpg

Edited by 996GT2

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more pics of the DMF, does this count as excessive scorching of the surface?

post-9066-1210543821_thumb.jpg

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pics of the old clutch and new clutch discs

post-9066-1210544060_thumb.jpg

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As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

thanks

post-9066-1210544138_thumb.jpg

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Absolutely replace the release lever. It is a new design. Also, the slave is also newly designed.

The new design started in April 2000 so he should have that.

Per TSB 7/00 3041 Creaking Noise In Clutch Bell Housing Area

"The modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000 from the following transmission number: G9600 1018220."

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As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

thanks

Much easier to do the starter with engine out..highly recommend.

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Absolutely replace the release lever. It is a new design. Also, the slave is also newly designed.

The new design started in April 2000 so he should have that.

Per TSB 7/00 3041 Creaking Noise In Clutch Bell Housing Area

"The modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000 from the following transmission number: G9600 1018220."

Hi, is there a way to distinguish between the old and the later modified release lever and slave cylinder? I do not know whether the clutch/release lever or slave cylinder has been changed for the modified versions as my car was registered on 12/08/1998 in the UK and has had 3 owners before myself.

Would it have been possible that they were changed under warranty by OPC?

thanks

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Absolutely replace the release lever. It is a new design. Also, the slave is also newly designed.

The new design started in April 2000 so he should have that.

Per TSB 7/00 3041 Creaking Noise In Clutch Bell Housing Area

"The modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000 from the following transmission number: G9600 1018220."

That is why I told him to replace the parts. His car was built long before the new parts came out. He states his car is a 99.

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As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

thanks

Much easier to do the starter with engine out..highly recommend.

I've not removed the engine, only the gearbox. just wondered if it was easier to get to now that the gearbox is out of the way?

thanks

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There is an upgrade to the clutch release lever, which more than likely was not replaced on your vehicle (based on the low miles)… Do you know if your clutch was ever replaced?

In any event look at your current release lever (removed from the bellhousing pivot point). The opposite end (from the throw out bearing), if you have a nylon sleeve about an inch long that the release lever sits on (and then sits on the pivot point) you have the old version. The new version does not use the sleeve but sits directly on the round pivot point in the bell housing.

The upgraded release lever is the 997 version. If you change it make sure that you order (get) the “O” ring that goes with it. When I ordered mine from Sunset Imports they forgot to mention the required “O” ring. The ring sits between the pivot point and the release lever.

I would put in the upgraded version since you are in there.

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I'll check it on the bell housing in a couple of hours. How does my DMF look from the pics I posted? Does that count as sufficient scorching to justify a replacement?

thanks

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Unless the rivets from the clutch disk (were worn through) and scratch up the flywheel or there are groves in the flywheel I would not change it. The scorching looks ok...

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As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

thanks

Much easier to do the starter with engine out..highly recommend.

I've not removed the engine, only the gearbox. just wondered if it was easier to get to now that the gearbox is out of the way?

thanks

Sorry my mistake, but is still easier with the GB out. You can see my starter, flywheel and clutch install hear.

http://www.webbspot.com/porsche/html/tranny-eng.html

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There is an upgrade to the clutch release lever, which more than likely was not replaced on your vehicle (based on the low miles)… Do you know if your clutch was ever replaced?

In any event look at your current release lever (removed from the bellhousing pivot point). The opposite end (from the throw out bearing), if you have a nylon sleeve about an inch long that the release lever sits on (and then sits on the pivot point) you have the old version. The new version does not use the sleeve but sits directly on the round pivot point in the bell housing.

The upgraded release lever is the 997 version. If you change it make sure that you order (get) the “O” ring that goes with it. When I ordered mine from Sunset Imports they forgot to mention the required “O” ring. The ring sits between the pivot point and the release lever.

I would put in the upgraded version since you are in there.

It looks like I have the older type release lever, so more than likely the clutch has never been changed before (due to low mileage). I'm now ordering the modified version with the 'O' ring.

I've checked the part number on the clutch slave cylinder and it is 996.116.237.04, is this the older type as well?

The clutch disc has not worn down so much on the DMF side so the rivets have not scratched the surface of the DMF. I was just going to clean the DMF with some clutch cleaner before reassembling everything.

Does anyone know where I can get a clutch alignment tool in the UK as the main dealers are asking £65+vat for it (about $150!!!!!!)

many thanks

post-9066-1210587320_thumb.jpg

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Yes that is the old release lever. I am not sure on the clutch slave cylinder but Sunset Imports can tell you if there is an upgrade avilable. Also, they may have the clutch alignment tool. if not try http://www.automotion.com/. It only only cost about 10.00 U.S..

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