Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
medtech

Cayenne Front Pads and Rotors DIY

Recommended Posts

Cayenne Front Pads and Rotors DIY


DIY FRONT BRAKE JOB Total elapsed time including jacking, wheel removal and the job itself was 90 minutes I ordered the rotors from Sunset and the ceramic pads from Pap-parts. Due to manufacturing differences we have seen, you must determine the size of the rotors on your vehicle prior to ordering. The easiest way to figure out your brake size (other than actually measuring the diameter of your rotors) is to look at the caliper. It should have "17ZR" or "18ZR" cast into the body.

 

Edited by medtech

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

How do you clear the "Brake Pad work shop" warning after completing the brake job?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How do you clear the "Brake Pad work shop" warning after completing the brake job?

Did you replace any sensors that were worn through?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How do you clear the "Brake Pad work shop" warning after completing the brake job?

Did you replace any sensors that were worn through?

Would it clear if the Brake pad sensor was good. I might have had one bad sensor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
All it takes is one open sensor and the light goes on.

I was on to let me know i needed to change the brakes, I replaced out the pads, and one of the sensors. It must be the other sensor i did not replace.

I also changed the Oil and the computer is saying i need to do that again as well.

Does Porsche need to clear that or can i reset it for the oil change as well?

Sorry for all the questions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

I am new to Renntech but not automobiles, so not sure if this should be a reply or new topic. However, while attempting to do the DIY front brake pad replacement for a 2003 Cayenne S, I encountered a problem removing the retaining poin. Bollt backed out incely, but pin was frozen solid. I tried some banging with a 16 oz hammer, but was not sure how much abuse the caliper can take. Also tried a little heat, but had no success. I have done brakes before, so I am comfortable with the process overall. Does anybody have a tips, suggestions, tricks for removing the retaining pin?

Thanks

DougL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great article. I did the fronts last week and it was easy but for the caliper bolts, which were very hard to loosen. The back seems a bit trickier and I was going to tackle those today but I have a few questions:

1. The caliper bolts are very hard to reach with the wires in the way. There is a wire right in the middle facing the bolt head. The 16mm XZN bit fits the bolts but seems like it is going to be touch with the wire in the way. Any tips here?

2. In the front, there is just one bolt (torx 50) for the rotor but in the back there are two (torx 50) and ??? Anybody know what size bit fits the smaller bolt on the rear caliper? See pic.

Thanks!

post-41328-1259440163_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks medtech, you just saved me some money :notworthy: !! i just replaced the rear, and they were extremely easy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great article. I did the fronts last week and it was easy but for the caliper bolts, which were very hard to loosen. The back seems a bit trickier and I was going to tackle those today but I have a few questions:

1. The caliper bolts are very hard to reach with the wires in the way. There is a wire right in the middle facing the bolt head. The 16mm XZN bit fits the bolts but seems like it is going to be touch with the wire in the way. Any tips here?

2. In the front, there is just one bolt (torx 50) for the rotor but in the back there are two (torx 50) and ??? Anybody know what size bit fits the smaller bolt on the rear caliper? See pic.

Thanks!

1. The wire can be moved out of the way by push the rubber ring out of its support.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone have the torque info for the caliper bolts for a 2008 S?

In the tutorial, the torques are listed as follows;

Torque settings:

FROM LOREN:

Brake caliper to front wheel carrier M16 x 1.5 270 Nm (200 ftlb.)

Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier M14 x 1.5 180 Nm (133 ftlb.)

Brake disc to wheel hub (front and rear axles) M12 x 1.5 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.)

Plug rear brake disc 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.)

Brake cover plate to front axle M8 x 12 20 Nm (15 ftlb.)

Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier:

M8 x 16 20 Nm (15 ftlb.)

M6 x 12 8 Nm(6 ftlb.)

Are these correct? 200 ft/lbs seems awfully high. And what about the conflicting info on the rears?

Edited by VanSoetaert

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone have the torque info for the caliper bolts for a 2008 S?

In the tutorial, the torques are listed as follows;

Torque settings:

FROM LOREN:

Brake caliper to front wheel carrier M16 x 1.5 270 Nm (200 ftlb.)

Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier M14 x 1.5 180 Nm (133 ftlb.)

Brake disc to wheel hub (front and rear axles) M12 x 1.5 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.)

Plug rear brake disc 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.)

Brake cover plate to front axle M8 x 12 20 Nm (15 ftlb.)

Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier:

M8 x 16 20 Nm (15 ftlb.)

M6 x 12 8 Nm(6 ftlb.)

Are these correct? 200 ft/lbs seems awfully high. And what about the conflicting info on the rears?

Straight from the manual of you prefer...

Cayenne Brake Torques.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Folks the 2013 base V6 calipers are different than what has been commonly seen here. They need to be removed to replace the pads front and back. There is no single retaining pin holding the pads in place for removal through the opening in the top of the caliper. Would love to know the torque values for MY 2013 base brake job. In fact a tutorial would be terrific if anyone has tackled the job yet. Not sure if the MY13 base calipers are the same back to the 2011 face lift. All input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Folks the 2013 base V6 calipers are different than what has been commonly seen here. They need to be removed to replace the pads front and back. There is no single retaining pin holding the pads in place for removal through the opening in the top of the caliper. Would love to know the torque values for MY 2013 base brake job. In fact a tutorial would be terrific if anyone has tackled the job yet. Not sure if the MY13 base calipers are the same back to the 2011 face lift. All input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Doug

2013 is a 92A model - this posting is in the 9PA, 9PA1 model area.

I think your question would be best asked in the correct model area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is true, but there appears a bit more traffic here and thought the request for info would pass by someone faster. Thanks for your guidance though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great write-up.  I just replaced front and back rotors and pads this weekend and everything went perfectly after reviewing this DIY.  Thanks for the effort you guys put into making it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.