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scb71

996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures

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996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures


First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution

 

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Is there a way to jumper or finagle the ignition switch to get it to run temporarily?

Will be inspecting a vehicle for purchase that has a bad ignition switch

and want to "bypass" this to insure the vehicle will run, perform

a duramatic, etc.

thankx,

M

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Perhaps purchase a new switch and just plug it in electrically to test the car. I'm not sure if it will affect the immobilizer but worth a try.

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Well my switch just went out over the weekend. So looks like I will be replacing my swtich in the next few days. I ordered from Napa the Audi switch which I should have by Monday.

Just so I know what I will be facing in replacing the switch, I tried to take out the old one using this diy. I ran into some difficulties which I hope someone can help me with.

In step 4 of this diy, it mentions unplugging the swtich by pulling directly off the back. Does this mean that the switch can be pulled directly back out of the dash console, and there is nothing securing it, and then once it is out, it should hang down some so I can get to the screws.

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What I was trying to point out is that the unit pulls off as one piece. You can see that it is multi-colored as a couple of pieces are clipped together. Just slide the whole thing back- it is firmly attached to the blades but it slides on and off. Then you can undo the screw and swap the replacement part.

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scb71,

Thanks for the clarification.

One last question, I ordered the same switch from NAPA that you did. Just wanted to make sure that this switch with fit my car which is a MY99 996.

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Well it took me about an hour to replace the switch. Can't imagine how people can do this in 30 minutes. You need to be a contorsionist to get under the dash to get to the screws. It looks like the swtich was replaced previously as the screws no longer had any red paint on them.

Thanks for sbc71 for his detailed diy. It definitely helps to take out the side vents to get to the top screw.

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Just completed this DIY today. Many thanks to Loren and SCB71. I am a newbie to working on cars. So far in my 996 TT I have replaced/fixed/installed - headlight washer unit, hardwire radar detector, clear sidemarkers, sanded headlights and added x-pel protection, and changed most of the bulbs. The info/photos were great and easy to follow. I would only add that the screws that hold the switch are tiny flathead screws that only need the smallest amount of torque to loosen. I bought my part at NAPA and other than buying another set of TORX screwdrivers this DIY was done for less than $20. Thanks again and I love Renntech!

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I have a 2003 911 Carerra Cab. I cannot remove the key from the ignition when the car is off. Car starts and can turn it off. Has the electrical issues when the key is turned too far to the right but a slight move to the left solves that.

Will an ignition switch replacement allow me to remove the key? And is the NAPA Audi part # valid for the 2003 911?

Thanks.

Bobby

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I just replaced my switch last night. Here are a couple of comments.

1. Make sure you move the drives seat as far back as possible before disconnecting the battery.

2. The Torx required to remove the screw under the light switch requires a long throat to reach that screw.

3. The screw driver required to loosen the set screws the hold the switch in the housing need to be a small bladed stubby screw driver.

Hope that helps...

Thanks for all the information...works like it should.

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My 2000 year 996 has an ignition swich which generates random on/off in wipers/lights/heaters/ which makes it effectively undrivable. I'm about to order replacement parts. Can anyone tell me if i need to order just the $10 ignition switch to resolve this or would i also need to order the newer one peice switch and ignition lock as well?

Cheers,

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Took me around 45 minutes. ONE thing to remember, don't close your bonnet after disconnecting the battery :)

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Due to my height, long arms and big hands, it took me about 1 hour and 10 minutes.

What a PITA, I had to bend in ways I thought were not possible.....LOL

Now key goes in and out smoothly and no electrical issues.... Key has a little more resistance to turn. No biggie.

Thanks all for the advice and write ups, nice fix for less than 13 dollars......

Edited by PESuazo

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I tried to change my switch today and ran into a problem. One of the set screws wouldn't come out. It turned but only loosened slightly. It would tighten but only loosen to a point though it continued to turn. Any suggestions?

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Just did this fix on sunday and i want to thank scb71 for the post and pictures which make it easier to understand> I did everything up to the part removal and could not figure out what type of screw was in there and i came on the blog and saw it was a flathead. Interesting sidebar about this, i left the battery connected and after the hookup my remote functions on the key worked again (wife put the key through the wash ). Saved me at least $100 to have the key reprogrammed !! So I actually saved about $200.

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I finally got around to attempting the ignition switch replacement. I was having intermittent low beams, wipers and ac/heat fan control. I threw in the towel. First, I couldn't release the tab at 6 o'clock on the rotorary light switch. I was planning on removing the

side vent panel.

So then after becoming Gumby, contorted on my back with the ignition switch in my face after I removed the plastic vent tube, I realized I wasn't going to break through the red paint on the set screws. I am an old man with bad eyes and sore joints so off to the

independant repairman it goes. It sucks getting old but I love the car.

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Check this out all of you that can't figure out why the fan control, wipers and low beams quit working. Yes, it is a worn out ignition switch but you are still in the running mode. Why? Because the ignition switch has three positions... 0, 1 and 2.

OK.... You start the car by going to position 2 and then the spring loaded switch springs back to 1. Well... what was happening

with my old ignition switch was that it would spring back to 1 only 3/4 of the way. My fan, wipers and low beams would not work.

The fix (temporary) is that once you start the car and release the ignition switch that should spring back to position 1 well it doesn't quite get there. Grab the key and move it about 1/16 of and inch counter clockwise and bingo... the fan starts running, the wipers work and the head lights work. I don't have the shop manual but try it and it will until you replace the switch.... you are up and running. Hokey but effective.

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Logray...

I have the switch. I just can't get the rotary light switch to release. (that tab at six o'clock.)

I can replace the $15.00 ignition switch, which I have when I get the left vent removed. I can't do it without removing the vent so I have access. Like I said, Hokey, but for now I know why the wipers, etc.

quit working. A weak spring in the assembly I assume.

I really need the technicians' shop manual. Are the ones advertised on-line in CD format complete relacements for the manuals? The car is showing it's age and I would like to try to do as much repairs

as possible.

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The ones advertised online are probably "fakes", the only genuine technicians manuals are from Porsche directly.

I saw your post earlier about not being able to release the tab on the switch. This can be tricky. Sometimes I've fiddled with it for 10 minutes without luck and then the next time I put the tool in it clicks off the very first time. Try using a different tool, be gentle about it, it doesn't take any force to release the clip.

  • Upvote 1

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Took me about 35 minutes including digging up tools, etc. I have no idea how you big guys would be able to do it. I'm 5'7" and have a sore neck from crawling under/in the dash.

Thanks much for the tutorial. This is the type of thing that makes the community great.

edit: Realize that I forgot to get the cold beer :(

Edited by COBoxster

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