Must torque converter be removed with Tiptronic?

[raleigh5]

when removing tiptronic trans, part of the procedure in the bentley manual is removal of the torque converter attachment bolts so that it can be removed with the transmission. just curious as to whether the tiptronic can be removed if the TC is left in place? boxster is a year 2000 with 2.7L.

[wvicary]

Remove it with the transaxle. After you remove the convertor bolts, push the convertor towards the transmission to release it from the crankshaft dowel.

[CJ_Boxster]

if you remove the trans without removing the torq convertor, you will get a large gush of trans fluid pouring out of the torq convertor when you pull the trans off of it.

[JFP in PA]

when removing tiptronic trans, part of the procedure in the bentley manual is removal of the torque converter attachment bolts so that it can be removed with the transmission. just curious as to whether the tiptronic can be removed if the TC is left in place? boxster is a year 2000 with 2.7L.

Do not attempt to remove the Tip without the converter; you are asking for large problems if you attempt this. :o

[raleigh5]

ok, sounds like a 'must do' to me. thank you all for your replies.

[raleigh5]

oh, 1 other question: is it necessary to use the porsche 'tool' alignment plate that attaches to the starter hole for removing the tc bolts? or is that just for making the process a little easier?

[pompous]

oh, 1 other question: is it necessary to use the porsche 'tool' alignment plate that attaches to the starter hole for removing the tc bolts? or is that just for making the process a little easier?

I am currently in this same situation and wondering the same thing. I am currently having trouble lining up the bolt holes to bolt the flex plate back up to the torque converter and do not have the special (9596) tool. Is it necessary?

[harryrcb]

Tool is not necessary just line that sucker up -don't tighten the bolts until you get all of them started

[JFP in PA]

The Porsche tool 9656 is nothing more than a 5/16 metal rod with a knob on one end and a slight bevel cut on the other end. Cheap and easy to make for yourself.

[xflyboyx]

just like other members mentioned , you have to take the t/c with transmission

you have to lock (if you will) the t/c to the transmission when backing up the transmission

look at the pix and see the rod that is holding the t/c ,

purpose of rod is to hold the t/c and make sure that holes are aligned with the flex plate

no you do not need a special tool but be very careful during assembly not to drop any bolt

otherwise if you cannot not get it out , you have to remove the transmission again

[Trey T]

Sorry to bring the thread back from the dead but what's the two bolts that's sticking out from the TC?

Are those pins even necessary for intalling/mating? I mean, there's nothing special about these auto tranny compare to others, right?

[JFP in PA]

I have no idea what the poster was using those bolts for, but they are in the holes that bolt the converter to the flex plate.

The Tip is much like other automatics, with the exception of how you get at the bolts holding the converter to the flex plate; on most cars it is more out in the open.

[Trey T]

I'm not sure I understand but please explain more. How much access space is there b/t the engine and the tranny?

Once you mate the tranny housing and engine together, you can't spin the flexplate and/or TC to the access area or something?

Edited August 15, 2012 by Trey T

[JFP in PA]

The converter is completely enclosed by the Tip's bell housing when mated to the engine, you have to work through the starter opening to remove and replace the six bolts attaching the converter to the flex plate, rotating the engine 120 degrees between each set of bolts. And as someone has already mentioned, don’t drop any as that will require pulling the trans again to get them out.

[Trey T]

Thanks for the tip man. That was very helpful. Do you know if the people install the RMS without the special seal pressing tool? Is there an article somewhere?

I don't think I find the time to do any major work on cars but it's good to understand the process. I will have to find a local shop to do the RMS and the IMS bearing.

If I continue to own and work on my own porsche, I think I'll have to invest in a lift.

[JFP in PA]

Yes, the latest RMS can be installed without the $400+ tool (Porsche only source) by using a 3" CPVC pipe union (Lowes or Home Depot) and the original flywheel bolts. The pipe union has an internal ridge that the flywheel bolts rest on, and by slowly cross pattern tightening, you can set the RMS to the required 13MM depth from the face of the crankshaft for less than $4. The OEM tool is real sweet and quickly sets the RMS to the spec (we have one), but $400 for a tool you would probably use once in your lifetime is just a bit much for the average DIY'er…………..

[Trey T]

Good stuff!!

I'm about to find a local non-dealer shop that is familiar with these porsche but I need to get an idea on the required effort.

I'm thinking 6 hours @ $120/hr + parts/fee/tax. Is that reasonable?

If not, what is your suggestion?

Edited August 17, 2012 by Trey T

[JFP in PA]

As a benchmark, to do an RMS/IMS update on a Tip equipped car, you would be looking at $2-3K range, including everything (and a new AOS, which is fully exposed when doing this, so it is the perfect time). And before you ask why so much, Tip cars a always a bit of a handful when doing one of these updates.

[mikefocke]

Trey, 'familiar with the Porsche' is a good quote to get you in the shop but find out just how many Boxster TIP IMS/RMS jobs they have done and if the mechanic who did them is still there. Just as in heart surgery, experience counts.

Edited August 18, 2012 by mikefocke