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Ignition Switch


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All,

This just started within one engine shutdown. The igntion switch is very stiff, no definitive positions from on, start, off etc... When removing the key, if at all possible, the systym does not lock in the "off" position". When removing the key it does not (sorry for the bad description) "clunk" in the off state. Sometimes it is nearly impossible to insert the key back into the ignition switch. Guess i realize this switch toast... Just looking for some advice if its user replaceable keeping the same keys??? thanks in advance for any help.

Paul

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The electrical portion of the ignition switch on the Boxster is notorious for breaking. The part is about $8 (from AutoHausAz) and it is possible to change out in less than 30 minutes (actually, some people have reported changing it in 5 minutes).

In my case, I had the exact symptoms you report and the problem ended up being the mechanical part. I replaced the whole thing and the problem is completely fixed. The part is $120 and the design was updated at some point (my car is a 1999, not sure what year it was updated).

If you search on this site you will find detailed instructions on how to change either one.

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Blah I should have done the install myself. My swich broke also a few months back. I had the electrical portion changed for $200 and was quoted $500 to get the whole thing changed to the 1 piece ignition stalk by the dealership.

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  • Admin

Thanks all for the feedback. I'm sure I can repair this myself.

My main concern was not having to re-key the car.

Now, on to search for the "how to".

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/

or

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/46-replacing-the-ignition-switch/

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Thanks for the link Loren.

I did notice this post has been running for 7 years.

Awesome there are still has moderators like you paying attention.

We have owned the 02 Boxster for just year now and I do enjoy doing the maintenance myself. These are actually fun to work on.

This issue maybe not so much, but what has to be done must be done. haha

Thanks again,

Paul

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Not meaning to hijack this thread, but my ignition switch has a very "rough" starting position, meaning there is often a lot of resistance before I can turn the key at all. Is this caused by the electrical or mechanical part of the ignition switch? My guess would be the latter, but I am new to this.....(I had the same problem with a Mercedes 190. The stealership changed ignition switches bi-anually.....). Any ideas welcome.

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Have you tried moving the steering wheel slightly right or left when you feel resistance to turning the key? The steering wheel lock can bind causing pressure on the key lock.

Bill

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  • Admin

Not meaning to hijack this thread, but my ignition switch has a very "rough" starting position, meaning there is often a lot of resistance before I can turn the key at all. Is this caused by the electrical or mechanical part of the ignition switch? My guess would be the latter, but I am new to this.....(I had the same problem with a Mercedes 190. The stealership changed ignition switches bi-anually.....). Any ideas welcome.

:welcome:

Have a look at the DIY for the whole mechanism upgrade DIY Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster

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Not meaning to hijack this thread, but my ignition switch has a very "rough" starting position, meaning there is often a lot of resistance before I can turn the key at all. Is this caused by the electrical or mechanical part of the ignition switch? My guess would be the latter, but I am new to this.....(I had the same problem with a Mercedes 190. The stealership changed ignition switches bi-anually.....). Any ideas welcome.

:welcome:

Have a look at the DIY for the whole mechanism upgrade DIY Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster

Thanks. It seems this will be the way forward. I would hate for the thing to lock up while on holiday (or at work so my workmates could watch my baby get tow-trucked....).

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Thanks all for the replies. Gotta love Renntech.

This was an easy fix and the tutorial was priceless.

From some of the older comments I think I saved hundreds.

$22 for the part shipped to the house, 25 minutes to replace.

The most difficult part is getting enough grip/torque on a small screwdriver to loosen/tighten the two screws.

Headlamp flashlight required!!! Also some pain relievers for the backache... hahaha

Thanks again everyone at Renntech.

Paul

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  • 3 weeks later...

So...I replaced the electrical part. That was really easy. Someone had been there before, so no paint to get rid of. The turning of the key is still rough. Is it possible to buy a new lock barrel, as this seems to be the culprit? Anyone know?

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Yes, you can order a new lock cylinder from Porsche, I think you have to specify the lock ID or VIN number and they will rekey it for you. I show this as $375 in our catalog. A less expensive alternative would be to take the thing apart, clean it, and then put it back together. Years of sticking gunk in there from the key is probably making it sticky. Here's a tech article that may help: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm

Hope this helps,

Wayne

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Yes, you can order a new lock cylinder from Porsche, I think you have to specify the lock ID or VIN number and they will rekey it for you. I show this as $375 in our catalog. A less expensive alternative would be to take the thing apart, clean it, and then put it back together. Years of sticking gunk in there from the key is probably making it sticky. Here's a tech article that may help: http://www.pelicanpa...tion_Switch.htm

Hope this helps,

Wayne

Hmmm...taking out the lock barrel looks easy enough, but that probably doesn't qualify as "taking it apart". Is it possible to clean it with just the lock barrel out of the car? Taking the lock barrel apart...are we talking serious surgery skills here?

Bent

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Took the lock cylinder out. Removed the clip and key. Cleansed it with carb-cleaner and press. air. A lot of gunk came out. Did this a number of times, then lubed it lightly. Smooth. Put it back in car....still rough. I already have changed the switch-part so the problem must reside "between". Took the cylinder out again. Lubed the movable parts in the "lock column". Put lock cylinder back. Now it is a lot smoother (not perfect, but a lot better). Hopefully it will see me through the summer...:)

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