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Papagut

Replacing Cayenne rear hatch struts

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Replacing Cayenne rear hatch struts


Hi there, just completed a fairly simple but satisfying repair on my Cayenne. Although there are some instructions posted on this repair, I thought I would take some snapshots as I went just to provide a visual reference for anyone doing this job for the first time. First thing, open the hatch and pop off and disconnect the light: At the same time, remove the screw inside the anchor for the luggage net on each side: Pop off the center roof panel. I got this started by loosening the first anchor through the hole where the light was, which made it easier to get started. Here is a picture of the backside of the roof panel to help you get a sense of where the anchors are located: Once off, some of the metal clips may be left behind in the frame. Use needlenose pliers to remove these and snap them back into the panel. Moving on to the two side panels, snap the anchors starting from the top and work your way down to the base where the speaker is. Disconnect the speaker, pull out any metal anchors that stayed in the metal frame and set the piece aside. Here is an image of where the anchors are located in these panels: Once those are clear, you will need to remove a white plastic molding which is held in place with three torx screws: Push the rain gutter tube to the side, which will give you fairly good access to a black foam panel that is glued to the frame. It is fairly thick, but if you loosen one end you can pull it free without damaging it. Behind that is the strut. Here is the foam panel, and a picture of it removed so you can see the thickness of it which will give you an idea of what you are working with when you first go to remove it: Once you have clear access to the strut, I used a long screwdriver to pry off the end closest to the front of the car first, and then closed the tailgate a little, and popped off the end attached to the tailgate. It is worth noting that the tailgate is heavy, so have someone help you here or use something sturdy to prop it open. Clean off the ball joints - mine were filthy - and you are ready to install the new struts. To make it easier to snap the new struts in place, you can loosen the compression clip on each end of the strut. I used a flathead screwdriver here to open them a little, put the new strut in place, then snapped the clip back into a closed position. I did not take the clip off, just opened it a little - then with my finger it just snapped back into a locked position. I anchored the strut to the body first, then the tailgate, as you can peek through the open tailgate hinges to help you position the tailgate end just right. With the tailgate fully open, they popped in with not much force at all. Here is an image of the compression snap: Once done, just work in reverse: reinsert the foam piece (I used a silicone adhesive to seal it back up and make sure that it was watertight), reinstall the white plastic piece, hook the speaker back up, attach the lower body panel (I found it easiest to work from the bottom by the window, working around the bottom edge, then working my way up), then the roof panel, and finally reconnect and reinstall the light. Having never done it before, it took me about an hour and a half. Here is a snapshot of the part you will need (you should replace both sides at the same time). They cost me about $100 apiece Canadian from my dealer and the part number is 955-512-550-06. Hope that helps you out, Mark

 

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Hi thanks for the article. I replaced the hatch strut 3 years ago, and it started to sag again so replaced the strut again.

This time, I replaced both hatch and glass struts, 4 struts total. I recommend to change all 4, because the hatch is actually held up by all 4 struts. Now the hatch practically flings open.

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Great tutorial, would just add other places to buy;

ebay ~$145 for the pair of hatch struts, $16-31 for glass struts.

ECStuning, ~$170 for the kit including new foam panels.

i went ebay before i knew ecs had them :(

Edited by stormy69

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Thanks for the tutorial, just did this today and it helped alot. Easier when you can see pics of what you Will do before you start doing it.

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Are the parts and procedure the same for 2008 with power lift gate (hatch)

 

No it is a bit more complicated because of the hydraulic lines and bleeding is required. You would also need a transmission jack and at least 2 people as this power door is heavy. It will also likely need to have faults reset in the control module which will require a Porsche diagnostic tool ( PIWIS or PIWIS 2).

On the power rear lid cars - this is likely best done by a shop with the proper tools and training.

Any good Porsche shop should be able to do this.

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key tip is to put the internal balljoint on first and make sure you unclip the retaining clips on the receiver nearest the tailgate.  I used a snow shovel as a helper to hold up the tailgate.  should take you no more than an hour and 1/2 - last half hour is putting the bits back on the car.

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On 10/13/2014 at 8:04 AM, Loren said:

 

No it is a bit more complicated because of the hydraulic lines and bleeding is required. You would also need a transmission jack and at least 2 people as this power door is heavy. It will also likely need to have faults reset in the control module which will require a Porsche diagnostic tool (PIWIS or PIWIS 2).

On the power rear lid cars - this is likely best done by a shop with the proper tools and training.

Any good Porsche shop should be able to do this.

Reviving an old thread here.  

 

My power liftgate gradually sags after opening. Does anyone have a diagram of the parts for the power liftgate? I looked in PET, but it doesn't show the system in it's entirety, only the power part or the non-powered system. I suspect that the hydraulic motor and piston ( which is on the driver's side) acts as a helper to the primary lifting struts... I have no noise from the hydraulic motor and I am hoping that the primary struts are just worn out. Anyone have experience with this? Incidentally, I am not throwing any codes on the Durametric.

 

Cheers,
TomF

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