Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Greetings,

I have an '06 Manual Transmission Cayenne with 63,000 miles. I took the vehicle to the dealer when the clutch pedal suddenly lost pressure while I was driving. After checking it out, the dealer reported that all the fluid somehow escaped the clutch assembly. A worn or otherwise damaged bearing is suspected. Parts and labor will be roughly $4,000.00 to replace the entire clutch kit. Does anyone have any insights from having had a similar experience? Based on my driving history with other manual transmissions, I expected to get to at least 100,000 miles with this vehicle before replacing the clutch.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

-El

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

:welcome:

Sorry, I do not see how a clutch bearing failure could cause loss of clutch hydraulic fluid.

Perhaps find another shop and get a second opinion.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thinking positively, I may have misunderstood the service rep's intent to explain that the cause of the fluid loss is unknown and the cause for replacing the clutch kit is the damaged bearing (due to the loss of fluid). I will, however, follow up and pursue additional opinions per your suggestion if clarification isn't forthcoming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The clutch slave cylinder is an external type so either it, the connecting pipes or the clutch master is leaking. My money is on the slave being at fault. This would not damage the clutch assembly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The clutch slave cylinder is an external type so either it, the connecting pipes or the clutch master is leaking. My money is on the slave being at fault. This would not damage the clutch assembly.

Concur even the small amount of fluid from slave cylinder leak if it were to somehow find its way in to the throwout bearing would not harm it (the bearing is sealed). The clutch disk may slip until the fluid burns off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Uwon
      2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time? 
      Thoughts?
      Thanks in advance.
      Johan
    • By CHARLES KORN
      Can the standard 2001 Boxster Roadster 2.7 L Porsche clutch friction disk be installed backwards?  If so what feature faces the forward (towards motor) direction?
    • By Steve Mongrain
      Hi Guys,
       
      Aircraft engine Tech, currently replacing the clutch on my AutoX 1999 996 C2, first time tackling a clutch/ IMS job.
       
      While the clutch & Pressure plate are worn out, I inspected the flywheel, based on Porsche's TSB 911 8/02 1360, & found it to be a bit worn, but serviceable. Common knowledge suggest to replace the flywheel every second clutch change or every 100K miles.
       
      Considering the high price of the flywheel, is it Worth it to replace it right now or I can expect it to last until the next clutch change?
    • By Boxyowner
      Looking for your help? I just did a complete clutch replacement on my 2003 Boxster. After getting the engine and transmission in and completely bleeding the clutch hydraulics 3 time, my clutch pedal sticks after depressing especially at higher rpms. Did something else break in the process? Thank you for your responses.
    • By RODAN
      Hi All,
       
      Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question:
       
      "What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?"
       
      The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed.
       
      When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier.
       
      In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel. 
       
      Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation?
       
      I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly.
       
      I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car.
       
      Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.