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How to Remove Rear Window Regulator 996 Cab

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Day two on the removal and installation of pax rear window regulator on my MY01 Cab. Getting the rear window panel was easy. The inner panel (hard plastic holding the hydraulic piston/rod) was difficult to remove. I spent too much time getting this moved out of the way. The actual window regulator is much easier to remove if you can get to the bottom nut (#9) on the photo.

There are three nuts securing regulator assy: two at the top and can easily remove using 10mm socket. The bottom one which is number 9 photo below is beyond reach. Looking at two options:

1) Drill an access hole on the inner sheet metal panel next to the seat belt assy; located directly behind the pax seat

2) Tap nut w/ a long 18-24 inch flat tip screwdriver

Appreciate any suggestions...I'll post pics later.


Edited by chinesefood
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  • Admin



Convertible top in service position

1. Removing side-panel lining. Removing side-panel lining -1-.

2. Removing rear side window inner seal. Remove front and rear fastening screws -2- from the convertible top support and the mount for the belt guide section, and pull rear side window inner seal -3- up and out.

3. Closing side window. Press the micro-switch -4- in the windscreen frame and actuate the rocker switch -5- at the same time.

4. Releasing power window. Release adjusting elements with the adjustment tool -7-. To do this, loosen and unscrew the nuts -6- from the adjusting element. Adjustment tool for the rear power window.

5. Detaching convertible-top support. Remove fastening screws -2- and fastening nut -8- from convertible-top support -10- and pull the deflection fitting and mount for the belt guide section -9- up and out. Pull convertible-top support -10- inward and fix between B-pillar and the convertible-top support with a spacing block -12- dimension - A = 30 mm.

6. Removing power window. Push rear power window -11- upward and push both locking tabs of the electrical connection -13- outward and disconnect.



1.Inserting power window. Connect electrical plug connection -13-, insert power window -11- into the window shaft from above and position in the mounts in the inner side section.

2. Screwing down convertible-top support. Remove spacing block -12- between B-pillar and convertible top support -10-, Position fastening screws -2- and fastening nut -8- in convertible-top support -10- and

tighten, Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb,).

Push deflection fitting into the mount for the belt guide section -9-, Screw in and tighten fastening screws -2-. Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.).

3/4. Adjusting and screw down power window. By moving the power window -4- with respect to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle, the power window can be adjusted by dimension Y = ± 10 mm, The contact pressure of the side window upper edge on the convertible top is adjusted by screwing the lower adjusting element -A- in or out by dimension X = ± 10 mm-, The contact pressure on the rear window inner seal or the offset from the door window is adjusted by screwing both of the upper adjusting elements -B- in or out by dimension X = ± 5 mm.

Adjust the basic setting of the adjusting elements -B- of the top edge of the rear side section relative to the side window,

Dimension C Front top edge of rear side section = 11 mm

Dimension D Rear top edge of rear side section = 14 mm

Push the power window backward or forward and adjust the gap between the side window and door window to E = 9 mm,

Adjust the contour or the offset from the door window at adjusting element -A-, Tighten adjusting elements -A- and -B-, Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb.).

5. Installing rear side window inner seal. Insert rear side window inner seal -3- into rear side section slot and position on the convertible-top support or mount for belt guide section, Screw in and tighten fastening screws -2-.

6. Install side-panel lining.

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Appreciate the TO instructions. I have to skip raising the rear window up (broken). Photos show top view, panel removed and the bottom nut that is driving me nuts. It should slide out. Just need muscle power and hope not to break anything.




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Here's more photos. I've replaced everything back for now until I find a way to pry lose the lower part of the window regulator, lower nut (#9) in the photo is playing hard ball...as it's been almost 11 years since orig window installed.






Edited by chinesefood
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Day 3 & 4 update. I finally got the regulator assy out by unscrewing the lower nut using a makeshift extension for my 1/4 drive ratchet using 13mm socket. In order to fit the socket and to allow side movement, I bent the top fold of the sheet metal where the bolt is anchored. After I removed the #9 nut, had to set the top fold back in place again. From there, just slide the lower part of the regulator less than 1/2 inch towards the front and lift the entire regulator assembly. PIT A**! I'll upload more photos tomorrow.

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I agree with this thing being a royal PITA !!

Did you buy a new regulator or sending yours out to repair?

They can not be repaired only replaced.

There are places where you can send yours out and fixed....guy in Rennlist did that...unfortunately he told me after a dished over 500 bucks for a new one...this guy in Brooklyn fixes then for 140.00..with warranty....I will not post the name of the website here.....but a google search will get you there........

" clear1x1.gifOur Price: $140.00 Icon_FreeShipping_Small.gifbtn_addtocart_small.gif clear1x1.gif

You send us your broken window regulator with the motor. We reassemble the motor guides, and replace cables with stronger and much more durable cables. If necessary we exchange plastic pulleys and rebuild regulators that are stronger than the factory issued models. "

Edited by PESuazo
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  • 1 year later...

Hello, I am repairing a 1999 911 Cabrolet which had been hit in the driver rear quarter panel. The panel was pulled out and smoothed so it looks like new. However, the Water Drain Tube was crushed and I had to replace it. To do so you remove the rear window regulator. So I had the same nut/stud #9 problem above. This was complicated by the metal bracket in the window well was mangled due to the accident (not mine, I bought is as a salvage repair). I did get it removed.

The instruction provided by Loren don't seem to acknowledge this third mechanical connection for the regulator (number 9 in the parts diagram above). So the question is: should I just leave it off? To attach it will require trying to fix the bent bracket in the wheel well (which is just out of reach).

Any advice here would be appreciated.

Best, Steve

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  • 7 months later...

Thanks everybody for your information on this, I am about to replace the rear right regulator on my 2000 Cab 4.

In step 4 of Loren's instruction on removing the regulator it says "Release adjusting elements with the adjustment tool -7-." What is the "adjustment tool"?



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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all the help. With your advice and photos, I was able to replace the rear window regulator on my 2000 Cab 4 in a day.

I found the access to nut number 9. Pull pack the carpet on the seat. There is a wiring harness plug where the seat meets the wall. Pull out the plug and you can access the nut.

I needed to use a 2 x 4 as the spacing block to get the old regulator out easily.

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  • 3 weeks later...


How were you able to put spacing blocks to take out regulator? I followed Loren's instruction to remove regulator and removed every nut and bolts mentioned in the all steps but the convertible-top support is not even moving to fix spacing blocks. Does it requires lot of power and pressure to put spacing blocks?

Per Maryland suggestion, it was easy to remove #9 bolt and I removed #9 bolt quickly but I can't get regulator out from the panel.

See attached photo of current state of the side panel.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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  • 3 years later...
  • 3 months later...

Can someone please provide a clear explanation on how to remove the rear window regulator when the window cannot go back up and is stuck in the down position.  I have removed the lower nut (#9) but I cannot determine how to get access to the upper nuts to free up the regulator.  Are they 13mm nuts or 10 mm nuts?  How many are there?  The diagrams in the this post are atrocious.  They do not very well depeict the removal of nuts securing the regulator to the body!  I need help ASAP.

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK.  With a "little" poorly documented and explained help from this forum I managed to remove my right rear window regulator from my 2003 Carrera 4 Cabriolet.  I am going  to provide as many pointers here as I can to make this effort much easier on the next DIY mechanic.

Thoroughly read this and other forum posts first.


Convertible top needs to be down or in the service position.  Remove rear seat cushion, rear interior panel and rear window trim piece as described in this post or others. Rear seat back should be in the up position.


  1. For removal of the regulator itself...The total of number bolts and or nuts to remove is 9 (13mm) (possibly 2 more(11mm) if your window is stuck in a down or partially up position). For total of 11.
  2. (2) 13mm nuts - Convertible top hydraulic piston; (1) from the rear piston mount point and (1) from the front piston mount point.
  3. (3) 13mm bolts - Seat belt pillar; (2) from the face of the pillar and (1) from the top of the pillar where the seat belt loop is mounted to the pillar. (remove the loop and seat belt pillar insert to allow regulator to eventually be removed.
  4. (1) 13mm bolt -  center of the convertible top support bracket; this is required to allow the bracket to be pried away from the pillar (see 30mm block of wood) to create clearance for the regulator to be removed. With a pry bar of some kind you should set the block in place at this step.
  5. (3) 13mm nuts/bolts - window regulator mounting points (recommend removing these last);
  6. (1) nut at the bottom accessed by removing a rubber plug; (2) each at the top; (1) one rear and one front.  For the rear remove a styro foam plug to access with socket.  For the front; if the window is in the fully up position access through the aligned opening in the convertible top support bracket.
    1. (IMPORTANT) If the window is stuck down or partially up this front bolt/nut is not accessible. The window blocks access to it through aligned opening in the convertible top support bracket.  Follow these steps...
      1.  you will need to use a goose neck closed end 13mm (6 point) wrench; loosen and remove this bolt/nut. Place or stuff a rag just under this nut/bolt to prevent it from falling to the bottom of the body cavity should you lose a handle on it.
      2. remove rag, regulator should now be free to move upward but not out all of the way out BECAUSE the window (still attached to the regulator) CANNOT clear the seat belt pillar.
      3.  move the window and regulator upward sufficiently enough so the window mounting nuts (the (2) additional 11mm noted above in item 1) are accessible with the 11mm socket; loosen to free the window from its regulator seat. (be careful not to scratch or break the window by applying to much force)
      4.  Carefully remove the window from the regulator and you will now have sufficient clearance to remove the regulator from the car.
  7. Remove the regulator by pulling it up first (free the bottom mounting bolt from its bracket) and then towards the rear (got to get the motor to clear the body) then straight up.  Take it slow. It will come out.

Good luck.  Its not really that difficult once you see what needs to be free.... and the window itself is out of the way.


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  • 3 months later...

The RHS rear window regulator on my 02 C4  Cab broke last week too.


Above posts were helpful to get this thing out and in quickly. 


My remaining problem was that I had that quick replacement for the broken regulator was not as simple as I thought (not much supply on intact used items, and rebuilds will take at least a few days back & forth).


Short on patience, I analyzed the technical problem itself  it turned out that the upper roll and rear string guide were compromised ((cracked in two pieces and missing at all resp.)).  I ended up making a custom roller and guide from some old in-line skate-type rollers (yes, including one ball bearing) and another Polyamid block for the guide. The rest was some filing / cutting (I had a lathe to cut the string grove , but otherwise I used hand tools), and after about two hours later, I had the roll-arch-drive back to life assembled. The drive runs very good, and I think the bearing is a real upgrade to the drive, and possibly will outlast many other bits on the car. Since it was really no big deal to get this fixed much quicker that ordering anything- here a few pictures for those who may consider a DIY - fix of the drive parts as well.   





Edited by 9552T500
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  • 5 months later...

Thank you all for taking the time to try to help me. It really sounds like it's beyond the scope of my ability and patience. Do any of you have an estimate on what the  stealer would charge for doing this job?

Again, I thank you for your time and help

Roy P

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Stealer quoted me $1400 for new Porsche regulator and installation. Having read this forum and doing research, I decided to bite the bullet and have them do the job. I am not a wealthy man, but the last thing I need right now is one more PIA. I have learned over the years that there are some things I can do to save money, and some things I have to throw in the towel and pay the piper. This is my daily driver, and I want it back on the road. I have very little free time, unfortunately not enough to make this a  DIY for me. I have an appointment with dealer on April 30. They will provide a loaner for me, as I live 70 miles away from them. Either I roll with the big dogs or stay on the porch. Guess in this instance I will be with the big dogs.

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