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Thought I would share this with everyone...I know the pictures arent the best but may help someone...I have been having a ton of issues lately on my04 S and all of a sudden. I have had to replace the alternator(which is liquid cooled), both batteries, oil pressure switch, fuel pumps, filters, and after all of that I got the p0011 cam sensor code. The first thing i did was change the oil since dirty oil will usually cause this fault but no luck.

So i replaced the cam sensor B1. I left the intake on

First Step remove air pump

Remove Coil covers

Disconnect venturi tube from back of engine bay(easy connect-once disconnected you can move it out of the way)

Disconnect cam sensor connector

Loosen cam bolt (remove the bolt by hand otherwise you will drop it behind the bay)

Pull sensor and reverse steps

(engine diagram-the cam sensor is #17)

post-62329-0-49292400-1363348398_thumb.j

post-62329-0-87697200-1363348404_thumb.j

post-62329-0-36781000-1363348412_thumb.j

post-62329-0-41549500-1363348421_thumb.j

Edited by working4it
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Hi, thanks for the description.

Did it solved the P0011 problem? I have the same on mine and would like to get rid of it too....

On different post I could only find that the problem is related to the chain.

Let us know if the fault is gone

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  • 2 years later...

I just changed my Bank 1 sensor. Cleared the codes, i'll drive the car tomorrow and hopefully the codes will stay away. 

Start to finish it took me 1 hour. Could have been 45 min if not for my neighbour wanting to borrow tools. Ok 55 min. 

 

It is really hard to take a picture of the sensor when it is in the engine. I could barely see it let alone get the iPhone in there. 

 

I took off the air pump like the original post. But i also took off the bracket that holds that on. Not sure i could really get to the sensor with that in the way. The bolt that holds the sensor is in a really precarious spot. My "E" torx socket is 3/8" and kinda tight to get in there. But you can get away with using a 8mm 1/4" socket. The bolt doesn't have to be screaming tight. 

You will need a M25 triple square and a 16mm socket to remove the top engine mount. At least loosen it and get it out of the way so you can remove the plastic engine beautification panels. Reverse is the same as dissasembly, I didn't lose any bolts or tools in the black hole today but i wouldn't attempt this without a good magnet to hold the bolt and tools. Last picture is how i was able to use the magnet to line up the bolt. Then used the same magnet to hold the socket to line that up. If the light stays out i don't think i will replace Bank #2 sensor. Didn't look over there to see if it is even possible without the removal of the intake. 

post-16847-0-21608300-1430791422_thumb.j

post-16847-0-33481800-1430791435_thumb.j

post-16847-0-42506700-1430791461_thumb.j

post-16847-0-34564700-1430791472_thumb.j

post-16847-0-62970900-1430791488_thumb.j

post-16847-0-24730000-1430791500_thumb.j

post-16847-0-14608200-1430791512_thumb.j

post-16847-0-93211800-1430791522_thumb.j

Edited by seafeye
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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, I bought 2 cam sensors but replacing the passenger side did the trick. 

The check engine light i turned off with the durametric and it hasn't returned. 

Although when i hook it up to my computer the P0011 code is still there but does not turn on the check engine light. 
I recently replaced my valve cover gaskets and may have bent the wheel that the sensor reads off of?

But no light means i'm good as far as i am concerned. 

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  • 10 months later...
Hi all, 

 

Got a 2003 CS 138k full service hist etc etc

 

found a code will resetting my airbag light 

 

Its throwing out the following code - P0011 - 

 

A Camshaft Position-Timing Over Advanced or System Performance B1

 

No CEL or anything else

 

I cleared the code in case it was an old one, but it seems to have got worse. 

 

Tick over is a bit lumpy, but there is definitely a knock of some kind from the drivers side of the engine, increases and decreases with revs. 

 


I've looked it up online and apparently that code is caused by one of the following - 

 

1. dirt in the oil circuit

2. sealing strips on the inlet camshaft adjuster being faulty

3. oil pressure too low

4. mechanical fault in intake cam adjuster

5. magnetic hydraulic valve being faulty

 


Looking at the causes above do you think 4 or 5 could cause the knock? 

 

I'm hoping it hasn't got the dreaded piston slap. 

 

Any advice appreciated 

Edited by Funollie83
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