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I was planning on make a device with which the car could be jacked by the jacking points but evenly, the rear or the front. Was thinking in using a steel square tube of 2 x 2 and of a heavy gauge, like a gauge 11. It will be long enough to reach the jacking points from one side to the other (rear or front) like the diagram posted. The jack would be placed in the center of the square tube, lift the car and then place the jack towers at the jacking points.That way the rear or front is raised evenly. Would it work, any suggestions?

post-15979-0-87231900-1364246714_thumb.j

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I was planning on make a device with which the car could be jacked by the jacking points but evenly, the rear or the front. Was thinking in using a steel square tube of 2 x 2 and of a heavy gauge, like a gauge 11. It will be long enough to reach the jacking points from one side to the other (rear or front) like the diagram posted. The jack would be placed in the center of the square tube, lift the car and then place the jack towers at the jacking points.That way the rear or front is raised evenly. Would it work, any suggestions?

The jack points are designed to accept a pad with a key way that locks into the car to keep the car from moving, your bar would need to lock into these key ways and still not be so low to the floor that a jack could get under it:

Pic4.jpg

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Orient did a great write up many years ago.

I've been using his method for many many years without any trouble and the car is very stable/sturdy.

The only modification I use on his procedure is instead of jacking the rear using the engine, I jack using the rear cross member.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/3404-putting-your-996986997987-up-on-jackstands/

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JEP, Who is a good source for the jack plates? Thanks Van

Loren is correct, plus they are a common flea bay and swap meet item as well. There are also a couple of fabricators that make smaller diameter units the they claim will clear the aero kits, but I have not actually tried them.

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I prefer to use the engine as described in my DIY, because my jack does not have a long enough tongue to reach the crossmember, and by lifting from the engine, it is a perfect test of the condition of the rear motor mounts.

In the unlikely situation that they rupture during the lift, that means that they were close to failing anyway. Better they fail when you can be aware of it, then fail silently on the road and you not knowing for months or years that they have failed. Plus it is a simple 3 bolt 15 minute replacement job.

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I have no arguments that the point on the engine case you use to jack is totally sturdy but the few times I've tried that I cringe a little.

I guess I would much rather damage the cross member than cause a stress fracture or otherwise on my engine case when I'm lifting 1500+ pounds of car using the engine (and I suppose I would be more concerned about the "flimsy" engine carrier than I would be the mounts).

But I totally agree that point is very solid, held by 25+ small case bolts and very high grade and large transmission bell housing/head bolts, etc.

Edited by logray
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I was planning on make a device with which the car could be jacked by the jacking points but evenly, the rear or the front. Was thinking in using a steel square tube of 2 x 2 and of a heavy gauge, like a gauge 11. It will be long enough to reach the jacking points from one side to the other (rear or front) like the diagram posted. The jack would be placed in the center of the square tube, lift the car and then place the jack towers at the jacking points.That way the rear or front is raised evenly. Would it work, any suggestions

I can't figure out your "cross bar" method. If your fabricated bar is under the jack point as you raise the front of the car ... then how are you going to place the jack stands there once the car is in the air?

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Good point Kim. Guess with two crossbars. Put the jack stand under the cross bars at the jacking point. But On previous posts in this topic, Logray posted a link with another method explained by Orient Express which I used, it works and is cheaper :).

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