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tahiles

Litronic Troubles

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Litronics aren't leveling, just pointing down. Found the front control arm linkage messed up so I got the parts from Sunset and fixed that.

Didn't fix the problem so I was looking around more and found another problem.

The headlight release hole, where the little tool goes is misaligned. If you look in there it looks like a little funnel to guide the tool onto the release arm. On the passenger headlight the release arm is centered in relation to the funnel opening. On the driver side the release arm is off to one side of the hole and the tool won't slip on the arm.

Don't know how I'm going to fix this one. My understanding is the other three adjustment screws move parts around INSIDE the headlight and don't affect the housing position.

Any help or advice appreciated.......

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First of all, factory installed Lits have a neat diagnostics function that allows a good diagnostics tool like the PIWIS or Durametric software can not only read problems, but can "exercise" the lights so that you can evaluate their functions. While it sounds like you may have one lamp assembly off its gimble point (which is why the tool does not fit correctly), I would be looking at seeing what is wrong and/or reseating the lamp before playing with adjustments.

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Took the other side apart and found the "funnel" section to be hard plastic. So I used a knife to remove some material on the tight side so I could release the light.

Turns out BOTH lights had the Litronic plug not plugged into the assemblies. Plugged them both in and everything is still the same.

As to diagnostic tools someone on another forum said the Durametric just let them know something was wrong. But the codes indicated it could be the main control module, the headlight control modules, the suspension sensors or a combination of all of the above....

Certainly doesn't seem like much help for a few hundred dollars!

Anyway, since BOTH lights are acting the same (pointing down and not adjusting) I'm thinking the problem must be upstream from the headlight units......

I'm not looking forward to buying part after part until the problem is gone. Or even worse, replacing all the parts only to find out it's a wiring issue. There doesn't seem to be any good troubleshooting info anywhere.

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As to diagnostic tools someone on another forum said the Durametric just let them know something was wrong. But the codes indicated it could be the main control module, the headlight control modules, the suspension sensors or a combination of all of the above....

Certainly doesn't seem like much help for a few hundred dollars!

Actually, the diagnostics tell you quite a bit, and much more than "something is wrong". They also can pin point specific issues (e.g.: control module, suspension sensors, etc.), as well as listing multiple issues when they occur. Unfortunately, too many people do not understand what the diagnostic tool is telling you, so they go off in a completely wrong direction rather than trying to learn from what the data is telling them. So those questionable "couple hundred dollars" save customers hours of otherwise wasted billable time when sorting out a problem car as it provides the best troubleshooting info available, especially in the case of multiple faults. In your case, it would have immediately spotted that something was unplugged.

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The Durametric system is an excellent Porsche specific diagnostics tool. You can ususally find a used one with one or more VIN's still left open at reasonable prices. One thing to be aware of, there are some notable differences between the "Pro" and "Enthusiast" versions of the software (you can find more info on the differences on their website) other than the fact that the Pro system can be used on as many cars as you want.

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Typically, one of the tilt sensors is malfunctioning when the Lits point only down. The durametric will allow you to test this by tilting the Lits up and down using commands from your laptop. If the durametric does allow you to move the lamps, then I'm guessing your rear sensor is the culprit given you replaced the front one.

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Typically, one of the tilt sensors is malfunctioning when the Lits point only down. The durametric will allow you to test this by tilting the Lits up and down using commands from your laptop. If the durametric does allow you to move the lamps, then I'm guessing your rear sensor is the culprit given you replaced the front one.

If I'm reading this correctly........if the Durametric will NOT move the lights up and down the problem could be front sensor, rear sensor, main control module, headlight control modules, headlight motors or associated wiring....right?

Hardly narrows things down.

I don't mind spending the money for the Durametric, as a matter of fact I've ordered one. But if this is all it does for me on the headlights I'll be disappointed.

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Yes, the Durametriccan put the lights through their movement paces, but it can also read the DME stored codes resulting from problems on factory installed Lits.

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I'll be clearer.

The durametric will overide the inputs from the front and rear angle sensors and allow you to move the lights into the up, level, down positions even if one of the angle sensors is broken. So, if you actuate this test built into the durametric and the lights move, the problem is most likely one of the sensors is broken or installed backwards. Becuase you installed a new front sensor, the problem would likely be the back sensor.

If the durametric cannot move the lights - one or both - then one of the other components might be bad. The codes JFP referred to will help point you in the direction of which component may be broken other than the angle sensors.

BTW: my car had the 'backwards" problem when an independent re-installed the rear sensor. This caused my lights to be in the down position all the time. Once the rear sensor was installed properly, the Litronics moved as they should,

Edited by thom4782

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thom,

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like the tester will let me know if the problem is with the sensors or somewhere "inside" the body. Then the codes will give me a little better guidance.

Thanks for the help guys, Durametric is on the way, I've downloaded the operation manual so I can gain a little understanding before it gets here.

If I need help once I start the troubleshooting I'll ask here.

I just HATE not being able to drive my car at night! I can drive it but I don't consider it a safe thing to do..........

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thom, Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like the tester will let me know if the problem is with the sensors or somewhere "inside" the body. Then the codes will give me a little better guidance. Thanks for the help guys, Durametric is on the way, I've downloaded the operation manual so I can gain a little understanding before it gets here. If I need help once I start the troubleshooting I'll ask here. I just HATE not being able to drive my car at night! I can drive it but I don't consider it a safe thing to do..........

You will be pleased with the Durametric system; but as a word of caution, it is incredibly complex and the ops manual is very basic, so you will need to spend some time playing with it to really appreciate everything it is capable of. There are also a lot of users here and on other forums that may be able to help you if you encounter any problems or questions.

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Well I got the Durametric today and here's what's going on..................

Had three Litronic Fault Codes. One, the front sensor cleared and stayed cleared.

The lights were acting pretty strange during the "activations". Seemed like the left light was doing what it was being told and the right light was cooperating intermittenly.

After playing around a little the left light is going to all three positions. The right light is staying pointed down but I don't think it's the motor in the headlight because it did move around a few times when I first started troubleshooting.

Anyway the two codes I have left are "1 Engine Path Left" and "2 Engine Path Right". Any advice?

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1 & 2 are the actual displayed codes. I didn't see any four digit codes....

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The symptoms are strange.

Does the left side light tilt now without using the durametric to activate it. You can test the by putting the car on level ground, turn on the low beams, then switch to high beams. The low should tilt up to fill in the high beam pattern. If the leftide doesn't work on its own, I suggest looking under the car to see if the tilt rs are still properly attached and that the wiring looiks OK.

If the left side does work, then problem might be inside the headlamp assembly itself. I assume all of the light trun on properly so you are getting power to the headlamp unit. I'm not sure how the cars tells the light to point up or down. I suspect that happens in the headlight control unit.,

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Well I didn't try the headlight after the Durametric tests...... so I'll do that later today or tomorrow.

I had a bad linkage on the front level sensor I repaired and that had "thrown" a code which cleared and stayed clear.

When "commanding" the lights with the Durametric they both moved (initially) so I believe the headlight motors to be OK. Now, the left light will go to all three positions but the right light stays in the downmost postion.

I was expecting the Durametric to tell me what my problem was so I wouldn't have to waste any money buying parts to "try" and fix the problem.

Really, what good is it to spend $297 (with shipping) to get a couple of codes that no one knows what they mean? Basically cost me almost $300 to find out I fixed the front sensor properly.

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Well I got the Durametric today and here's what's going on..................

Had three Litronic Fault Codes. One, the front sensor cleared and stayed cleared.

The lights were acting pretty strange during the "activations". Seemed like the left light was doing what it was being told and the right light was cooperating intermittenly.

After playing around a little the left light is going to all three positions. The right light is staying pointed down but I don't think it's the motor in the headlight because it did move around a few times when I first started troubleshooting.

Anyway the two codes I have left are "1 Engine Path Left" and "2 Engine Path Right". Any advice?

HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. I would be willing to bet the codes actually read something like this:

HBA 011 Fault2 Engine path, right

If that is correct, the Durametric just told you that HBA 01 points to a problem with the High Beam Adjustment on the right side of the car. Typical possible fault causes: Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between [the] control module and servomotor for HBA, left; servomotor for HBA, right, is faulty; or the the control module itself is faulty.

You either have an electrical issue (loose connector, frayed wiring, etc.) with one or both lights, one or more weak servo motors that move the lights, or the headlight control module itself is on the way out.

Not bad for $297 diagnostics tool, otherwise you would have needed a PST II or a PIWIS to tell you the same thing, but they cost a lot more ...............................

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HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. I would be willing to bet the codes actually read something like this:

HBA 011 Fault2 Engine path, right

How much would you be willing to bet? I can take a screenshot :-)

But here's a question... Given that I had intermittent right beam motor actions (using the Durametric), and that now the motor is stuck in position. Also given that I have no sensor faults so the control unit should be getting the signals it needs to move the beams up and down....... and given that both motors stick in the lowest position under normal operating conditions.....

Doesn't it sound like the control unit to you?

Edited by tahiles

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Fault code 1 -- Motor circuit, left

This fault is stored in the following cases:1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotor for HBA, left, terminals 1,2, 3, 42. Servomotor for HBA, left, is faulty 3. The control module is faulty

Elimination:Switch off ignition- Pull plug off the control module- Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA- Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms- Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 1, 2, 3, and 4; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms- Check for short circuits between the supply leads.

If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA.Also check the plug on the wiring harness side and replace if necessary.

Fault code 2 -- Motor circuit, right

This fault is stored in the following cases:1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotor for HBA, right, terminals 5, 6, 7, 82. Servomotor for HBA, right, is faulty. The control module is faulty

Elimination:- Switch off ignition- Pull plug off the control module- Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA- Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, right, terminals 5, 6, 7, 8 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms- Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 5, 6, 7, and 8; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms

- Check for short circuits between the leads.If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA.

  • Upvote 1

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Loren....good stuff...thanks a lot!

But....Here's a thought.....

Why not swap components from Left to Right? If the problem moves it's the components. If not it's wiring or control unit.............THEN get out the meter????

Edited by tahiles

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HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. I would be willing to bet the codes actually read something like this:

HBA 011 Fault2 Engine path, right

How much would you be willing to bet? I can take a screenshot :-)

But here's a question... Given that I had intermittent right beam motor actions (using the Durametric), and that now the motor is stuck in position. Also given that I have no sensor faults so the control unit should be getting the signals it needs to move the beams up and down....... and given that both motors stick in the lowest position under normal operating conditions.....

Doesn't it sound like the control unit to you?

It is a reasonable assumption to start there; if you have a buddy with a similarly equipped car, you might want to "borrow" his control unit for a few min. to test as the replacement unit is well north of $100 and cannot be returned.

And there is still the possibility that Loren's post tests will still be required as it can still be a servo out.

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Finally got this fixed. Took the lights out and wanted to switch components from left to right to eliminate some possibilities.

Also bought the LED parking light bulbs so wanted to get those installed.

Anyway....inside the right headlight the four wire plug going to the Litronic Control was VERY loose.

So I had a broken front linkage, both Litronic plugs to headlight units unplugged and a loose plug inside one of the units.

Cleared all codes and they stayed clear. Seems as though the headlights level on car startup, is that right? On my Lexus they level when you turn the headlights on, NOT the car...

Glad this is over, now if I can just get my stupid power mirrors fixed,

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Finally got this fixed. Took the lights out and wanted to switch components from left to right to eliminate some possibilities.

Also bought the LED parking light bulbs so wanted to get those installed.

Anyway....inside the right headlight the four wire plug going to the Litronic Control was VERY loose.

So I had a broken front linkage, both Litronic plugs to headlight units unplugged and a loose plug inside one of the units.

Cleared all codes and they stayed clear. Seems as though the headlights level on car startup, is that right? On my Lexus they level when you turn the headlights on, NOT the car...

Glad this is over, now if I can just get my stupid power mirrors fixed,

On cars with factory installed Lits, the auto level check takes place at engine start in relation to the cars attitude or position, on aftermarket installed Lits, it takes place when the lights are turned on regardless of how the car is sitting.

Kind of thought it might be a loose or corroded connector. Glad you got it fixed.

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