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Thank you

Do both the outer seal valve cover seal and the spark plug hole seal at the same time.  you'll be surprised at how stiff the old seals are compared to the new ones.

 

On a side note, I like the design of the seal itself.  recessed into the covers, and "stand on edge" which allows for great compression.....much better than a cheesy flat cork gasket.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Moderators

Fixed. Gaskets look pretty worn after 10 years. I am wondering if they can break apart and cause even more serious damage if smaller parts going to some oil channels or somewhere else.

 

That is always a possibility.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not that i dont trust mechanics but today i checked what they did and surprise surprise.

The changed the spark plug gasket and valve cover gasket because i had oil in coil tunnel for cylinder 5. i take away the engine cover and take out all coils. What i found? Oil in coil tunnel number 7. AMATEURS or what should i say. Car is going back to service straight away.

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  • 2 months later...

So the update on this story was:

 

they fixed the valve cover gasket in the right way, but they didnt fix the small gasket on this small valve which is sitting in front on top od the valve cover. Now its done. Maybe i am wrong but the loss of power situation i have came almost at the same time. 

Would somebody tell me what this part is. # 21 on the picture i guess. Is it the camshaft actuator? What is this part doing? Could the do something wrong there? 

Thank you

 

image.png

Edited by ekstroemtj
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Thomas this is the camshaft actuator solenoid. And both of mine are leaking oil as well! Although nowhere near as much as yours, it's more a weep than a run of oil.  I wouldn't say your current running problems on the way to france are because of this but you never know. I'm going to try and change the oil Seals without removing the valve covers. If it work it will save me at least 5 hours or work to remove the valve covers and put it all back together. When I did the right bank valve cover gaskets it was a real pain in the *** to get at all the bolts near the rear against the bulkhead.

If I can do it I will get some extra oil Seals and send you a couple in the post. 

IMG_20160709_131657.jpg

Edited by lewisweller
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Thomas I got these oil Seals out today in 5 mins with just a flat blade screw driver. By wedging the flat blade in between the case and the seal and twisting the screw driver (do not lever, it will crack the valve casing) it will deformed the seal enough to pull it out easily. 

I've contacted my seal guy and seeing him tomorrow to check if he has something that will work. If not plan B go to Porsche and buy. 

Word of advise the way I did it WILL cause some scratches on the valve cover case where the seal seats. I will be reinstalling new Seals with a bead of gasket sealer on the seat before I install the new oil seal. I guarantee it won't leak after but still my disclaimer to anyone reading, don't blame me for the scratches caused by using the shortcut screw driver method to avoid removing the both the valve covers! 

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1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

Can you test this camshaft adjuster which you see now in front of you? How find out if this is working proper?

Without removal and connecting to 12vdc supply to watch the small oil control valves opening and closing I'm not sure how to be honest. The soleniod coil will have a resistance range to be operational, I will measure that ohms tomorrow and report back what mine are. 

If you had a problem with this soleniod the car wouldn't have proper power through the rev range, it would be flat like no boost feeling, also you would definitely have a code for the valve timing deviation. 

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Actually i have codes which point to camshaft sensors. The shop changed thm already but the codes stay. Not a good sign. Maybe a timing problem or this solenoid we talked above. 

That is what i mean "everybody can be glad to have a shop which is looking little bit ahead of things" 

mine doesnt. The had the valve cover i

off. Not enough they didnt fix it proper. They know about the camshaft codes but they didnt have the wish to check the solenoid  while working there. 

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17 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Actually i have codes which point to camshaft sensors. The shop changed thm already but the codes stay. Not a good sign. Maybe a timing problem or this solenoid we talked above. 

That is what i mean "everybody can be glad to have a shop which is looking little bit ahead of things" 

mine doesnt. The had the valve cover i

off. Not enough they didnt fix it proper. They know about the camshaft codes but they didnt have the wish to check the solenoid  while working there. 

What codes have you got? 

 

I did the actuator solenoid Seals today went really well and about 15mins work. I ended buying from local Porsche centre as I couldn't find anything generic in the market. $50 for the pair.

See pictures I put rtv gasket seal maker around the lip and used a 32mm socket to gently tap it into place, it actually goes in real easy. Quick wipe around and all done. 

 

I also changed the number 13 on parts diagram check valve that plugs into the AOS and two other tubes. One more tube with built in check valve number 25 is on order still. Really excited to get this last part and fingers crossed drive the ctt in top working order as Porsche intended, God knows I put enough time, did so much investigation and spent too much money on this thing now. The wife is questioning my logic in selling the stage 2 tuned 350bhp 2012 Golf R for this bigger boot Cayenne and so am I.

Must keep the faith........must keep the faith.......:biggrin:

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