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I was fairly sure that my erratic idling on my 2000 model Boxster S - never less than 1100 r/min and often shooting up intermittently to 2000 r/min - was caused by a dirty throttle body or MAF sensor. After cleaning the TB it made no difference and having caused an air leak on one of the rubber sleeves where it attaches to the plenum, I decided to give the job to my local specialist.
The problem was resolved by repairing a hole in the brake vacuum hose, caused by the hose chaffing against the bodywork.
I suppose that with 19 years under its belt and 147000 km I could expect something like this. The brakes work better too - less muscle required to stop the beast!
Thought Id share...
By Christiaan Poortman
Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997.
The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight.
Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM.
The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal)
I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything.
No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either.
Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug
Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
My 1998 Boxster suddenly had hot start issues where if left in the sun here in Texas for a few hours would then crank but not fire unless you kept cranking and pressed the throttle. No issues when starting cold. It had thrown some evap leak codes a few times and a secondary AI once but nothing consistent and would also suffer from idle issues if hot start was hard.
Having read many threads I decided that it was not fuel pressure related as in my experience fuel pumps either work or they do not and the same applies to the associated relay.
I read someone blocked off the valve under the lhs air intake plenum and when I did this the hot start problem disappeared but gave other idle issues.
I decided to replace this valve and in the process also decided to clean the throttle body and iacv when I discovered oil in the aos and j tube the aos was replaced 3 years ago.
Having replaced the valve and the aos the car appears to be running better than ever.
I had no white smoke issues or oil cap pressure test problems and the old valve was in the closed position when I removed it so that may not have been an issue.
This whole situation had gone on for many weeks and also gave air leak codes in both banks but using a smoke generator revealed no issues.
Hi I just bought a cayenne 3.2 V6 2006 base model, on my way home car was running fine,
second day morning went to put some gas and after getting home car idle was rough Stop the engine and start back on now the car start goes to 1000 rpm for 5 seconds and then start shaking going to 500 rpm or less for about 30 seconds then car it self try to correct and goes to 1100 rpm for the same 5 seconds and then back to the bad idle.
If i press de gas pedal right after the start car goes fine without any issue to 4000 rpm for the same 5 seconds and then complete loose the power, back to the 500 Or less rpm. When the car try's to correct back to the 1000rpm I can gas up to the 4000 rpm fine, is like a loop.
I have a Autel Scaner shows 1 code in the getaway
code 532 power supply
what i have done:
new coils and spark plugs
check fuel pump all good
check the spark in the coils
fix 2 vacuum pipes
I have no idea of what else I live in Panama and I'm 600 miles away from the only Porsche dealer. I'm a mecanic but out of ideas now any help will be much appreciated
So I'm having this issue that is driving me crazy. My SAI (Secondary AIr Injection) and Oxygen Sensor are not reaching "Ready Status"
A little background about my car.
2006 Boxster S 3.2L
FVD Exhaust system
GMS Headers with 200 cell cats - has all 4 O2 sensors attached.
996 throttle body and distribution hose
ECU Tuning Group tune
I had the car up in BC Canada since 2009 (although it is a US car) and had no problems passing the sniffer and obdII tests - both before and after all the mods except for the ECU tune.
I went to get my emissions testing done last week in Texas and failed due to the 2 systems being in not-ready status. I figured it might have to do with the cat delete (ROW) configured in the tune. I sent my ECU back to ETG in California and had them re-flash my ECU in order to re-enable the O2 sensors.
I cleared all codes and figured I would start fresh. I drove the car about 120 miles and attempted to follow the drive cycle mentioned in the forums but it was really tough with the roads out here. Everything is in ready status except for the SAI, and the O2 sensor. I can manually start the SAI using the Durametric system so I would believe the pump is not bad; however, I'm not
sure that I"m hearing the SAI start up when I cold start the engine.
For testing purposes I unplugged my O2 sensors from both bank1 and bank2 and they both threw fault codes which confirms that the ECU tune re-activated my sensors.
I've uploaded a few pictures with the results from a OBDII app as well as the Durametric Software to my Google Drive. I'm not quite sure how to interpret the Durametric Voltage results - especially the negative 50 V and -127V - seems quite odd.
Any help or guidance will be appreciated as I'm out of ideas.