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So, in the process of getting ready for the summer at NE, I tried two months ago to open my convertible (C4-99). The convertible stuck at 2/3 and didn't go back. I got the car to my indie, stayed there for two weeks and got it back un-repaired. He told me that he tried everything, did recalibration and still, he couldn't fix it. I gone to the dealership too, paid $540 for diagnosis and they told me that they have to replace latch and/or module and since I'm loosing some oil from the cylinders, both cylinders. They quoted me $5400. I hugged them and left :)

 

Now, the last 2 weeks:

Durametric comes up with error 16 (unknown error - latest version of the software)

In the beginning, when I tried to calibrate with durametric, it was pulling the top back and then it was timing out but without any warning light on the dash. After this was done the only way to close the convertible was manual. This happened more than 10 times during my tries. Now, durametric doesn't do anything at all, I just get the 'working' icon and nothing happens.

I follow the workshop manual and I changed the following with no changes on behavior:

Module

Top latch

 

Still nothing. To add on this, when it stops I hear a 'click-click' sound from the back. The sound is from the module itself, but as I said, I replaced the module and nothing changed.

The clam shell opens and closes/locks fine. I don't get a warning light when I'm closing the convertible. I'm getting a warning light only when it stuck. All windows are going up and down.

The hydraulic oil is always full. 

Any ideas or suggestions are strongly appreciated.

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OK. The issue is solved. I'd like to describe everything hoping that I'll help another fellow owner on this one:

 

Most of the guides regarding a similar issue they don't mention or mention lightly the potentiometer, which was the case.

As I said, the top was stuck at 2/3 while I was opening. I perform the following 2 things:

1) Release the air pressure valve in order to confirm that there is nothing in between the top and the back lid so I could manually open the convertible. There is a small hole on the back of the seats, not the hole that you use to manually open the back lid (aka clamshell) but 3 inches to the left of it. With a counterclockwise turn you release the air from the pump and the convertible top becomes completely free. If you can pull your top back without issues means that is not your flaps or anything else. After this is done, push back to near closing position the top (convertible top closed) and turn back the air valve in order to have your pump working again.

2) I open the side trim behind the driver seat. Inside there you'll see the cylinder attached to the potentiometer. In order to confirm that the potentiometer is problematic, you have to unscrew the 2 small screws that hold it to the car and leave the one that is on the cylinder. When you open your convertible move the potentiometer with your hand (the top part) to the back side of the car (let's say in order to 'follow' the convertible). If it doesn't stick this time at the same point (probably will be stuck later) means that this is your problem. A part that costs $90, saved me $5,700. At the same time, it was a great experience and knowledge since I literally had my car into pieces. I found so many wrong bolts and nuts and other pieces that were missing, I clean all the drain holes and I put new tesa tape to my electrical wiring. 

 

Can't describe how happy I am.

 

 

Edited by emperorphobos
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