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I just finished installing a Kenwood Head Unit and used the Kit210/ M.O.S.T HUR 997 module. The installation is not for the faint of heart. I have installed many radios and worked on mods to my previous Porsche's. This took some serious investigation and decoding to see what wires need to be attached to wires in the harnesses. To some extent I was fortunate that the previous owner had an after market unit installed, but had remove nearly everything.
Navigation ( I located the GPS antenna way back under the plastic cowling between the Battery and Cabin Filter)
Phone (tried to locate the mic in the location of the factory mic, but proved to be too difficult for now. Located to left of the radio bezel by removing the small piece of dash and positioning the clip under that.
Volume and Chanel rotary dials on the Steering wheel multi use buttons.
Now the problems left over:
The Phone buttons don't seem to do anything. I need to use the buttons on the radio when placing/receiving calls. This is not major but would like everything to work as well as if a factory head unit was install. Again, it seems that the steering wheel switches are recognized, but not the phone buttons.
Is this maybe something that needs to be programmed in?
By Tim Lambie (Trailbrake)
Several people have told me that the 996 Dual Sender Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor will directly replace the 987-1 Oil Pressure Switch. Can you please confirm this and provide the part number. I would guess it is 996-606-203-03 but, I would like to be sure.
Additionally, if I am running an AIM dash, should I run the pressure lead to the switch input on the ECU and get the pressure data from the CAN bus or, just leave the switch lead attached and run the pressure lead straight to an analog I/O on the AIM dash.
Hey everyone, i own a 2010 porsche Boxter 2.9L with the PDK transmission.. yesterday after leaving the car for a 4 days i started it and went for a drive.. when i turned it on again, i got a warning message “emergency transmission run” and the car became very jerky through gearshifts and wouldnt accelerate properly.. after turning it on and off the message went away and it drove just fine but then it kept re-appearing mid drives and becomes very jerky and clunky...ive noticed since i had the car that the gearbox was sometimes clunky or would make a noise when changing gear but the dealership said that was fine and normal since its a PDK, the car is at 59,000km so its time for a transmission fluid change... could this be a low voltage problem, or transmission fluid? The reverse gear works just fine.. has this happened to any other owners?
Hi there! My first question on here after lurking for a while.
Of all the options possible on the 987 - I'm really happy with my spec, but would very much like to have heated seats in time for winter 2017. The cost of wiring and sourcing parts to do this to factory spec isn't realistic. I have a really good set of sports seats with the optional crest embossed so finding a set as good, with the heating elements, plus all the parts, coding etc. let alone buying a new HVAC module with the stock switches. Meh - too fiddly.
So I'm going to go with an aftermarket kit. Haven't decided which kit yet but either way, I want to plan out where I'm going to get power for the elements. I do have a good understanding of auto electronics and am happy with using relays etc. etc.
Question: Where will the best place to get hold of a switched 12v supply that can handel the 4-5A current each seat can draw at max (while heating). This will be my first electrical job in a Porsche and I'm frankly struggling given how Porsche puts a specific loom into each car's options spec, rather than a one size fits all approach I'm used to with other cars.
Tap into seat power: Although I have manual seats, the back is still motor drive - so first thought was that I could borrow 12v power here. The wiring is also likely up to the job given that seat motors can draw up to around 20A. BUT the supply here is always on - not switched with ignition - so I'd inevitably leave the heaters on and drain the battery. There is a BOSE module under the drivers seat, so an option for power there, but even less detail/info about about specs here, and it dosn't answer the passenger side question so that's out.
Center console: Seems to be a source of switched power in here - but concerned it won't be rated/safe for the current draw - given it will only be designed for accessories and phone charging. Also - as above, how do I get under the carpet to run this neatly from the center console to under the seat?
Run wire from the Fuse Box: This is what I want to do really, and use a spare slot on the factory box for a centralised fuse location (I have having fuses just.. hanging around) - but I'm looking for a way to run the 12v neatly back to under the seats and leverage the existing cut out in the carpet to run the wire. I'm good with getting behind the carpet around the fuse box.. and getting the wire to the other footwell - but how do I get to the seats in a neat and tidy fashion? Can't find a guide or info on lifting the carpet on a 987. Perhaps I could tuck under the inside door sills?
Your help most appreciated!
Hi everyone, this is my first post. Ever since I was a kid, I've always wanted a Porsche. 911 is out of my price range and although I think Boxster's are cool, I've never been a convertible guy. So, that leaves the Cayman. I love the look of it and I test drove one yesterday and had a blast driving it. However, I'm very concerned about the IMS / oil starvation issues I've been reading about. The car has 48K miles on it and is listed at $23,999 (the price is somewhat negotiable). It would be my primary vehicle (I also have an 84 Toyota Landcruiser FJ60). However, I work from home mostly and only make one trip to my office weekly which is a round trip of about 90 miles. So, I'll be putting around 6K miles per year on the car. I read somewhere that the odds of actually having a failure in a 2006-2008 was something like 1 in 100, but I've read conflicting information on that. I can afford the payments and to pay more for maintenance than I have on my other cars in the past (Ford, Nissan, VW, etc.), but a total engine failure would be devastating and I don't have that kind of cash lying around (without dipping into retirement savings or something crazy like that). So, does anyone know the real likelihood of failure and if there is anyway to easily determine if the DOF solution has already been installed? Also, anyone have an estimate on what it would cost to install the DOF? There also doesn't seem to be any clear info on rebuilt engines out there. I just see a wide range of estimates from $10K - $20K. 10K might not be TOO bad, but 20K...yikes... If I can't feel confident in the 2007, I guess I'll just have to wait and maybe find a good deal on a 2009+. Thanks :)