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IMS Seal, RMS, or both?


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Hi all,

What do you think about this leak? It looks to me like it’s probably just the IMS Seal but this is my first time seeing one of these engines and I could use some opinions. I’d rather not mess with the crank seal if I don’t have to. 

(‘07 2.7l, 100k miles)
 

4C261F64-EAF6-4740-BD52-069C00C3CBD7.thumb.jpeg.a9c6a83c37e76023450d82479e1faba7.jpeg
 

DAC59B80-1DE4-4A49-9202-3EB1BBEB7286.thumb.jpeg.ef1777a3ae13bc6b1b52ebde3416a8e0.jpeg

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51 minutes ago, Loren said:

Since you are already there I would change both, The RMS seal must be put in with the proper tool or it will leak.


That’s why I’m inclined to leave it alone — never changed a RMS before and don’t want to fix something if it isn’t broken/possibly make matters worse. I don’t have the tool and would probably have to use the “PVC method”. 

Edited by Far M
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Thank you both. I guess I’m just reluctant to mess with the RMS since it’s apparently fine after 100k miles, and a little risk averse about removing the IMS flange/don’t have the tools at the moment for either.

 

Hopefully will figure it out and resist the temptation to just clean it up and move on. 

Edited by Far M
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  • Moderators

People tend to forget one simple fact: Oil seals wear and harden over time, so the older they are, the more questionable they become.  So, a seal with a lot of miles on it that is not leaking, may just decide to start doing so 5 min. after you bolt the trans back on the engine.  Seals are cheap, how much your time and labor are worth is another story.  We replace every seal anytime the back of the engine is exposed; cheap insurance.

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1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

If it were up to me, I would update the RMS, and remove the rear facing seal of the IMS bearing so it can lubricate while you have the flange cover off to reseal that.

 

+1 about removing the IMS bearing seal..... this was written up in Excellence magazine dating back to 10 years ago, etc.

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