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Cayenne S Transmission Fluid Change Procedure


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  • Admin

Not really sure this is a DIY without proper tools. ATF lines have to be disconnected. You will need special fittings to connect to the (bottom) plug and you will need a temperature probe to make sure you don't over or under fill.

This is 5 pages in the service manual.

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  • 2 months later...

Not really sure this is a DIY without proper tools. ATF lines have to be disconnected. You will need special fittings to connect to the (bottom) plug and you will need a temperature probe to make sure you don't over or under fill.

This is 5 pages in the service manual.

NOT REALLY SURE WHAT IS?

THERE IS NOTHING HERE, WHAT IS THE "THIS" YOU ARE REFERRING TO???

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  • Admin

Not really sure this is a DIY without proper tools. ATF lines have to be disconnected. You will need special fittings to connect to the (bottom) plug and you will need a temperature probe to make sure you don't over or under fill.

This is 5 pages in the service manual.

NOT REALLY SURE WHAT IS?

THERE IS NOTHING HERE, WHAT IS THE "THIS" YOU ARE REFERRING TO???

The procedure is 5 page of type written procedures. I am trying to say this is not a simple task on a Cayenne without the proper tools and documentation/training.

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There is no special fitting on the cayenne. There is a 17mm allen plug that needs to be removed. The new fluid can be pumped in through there. Pump the new fluid in until it runs out. Start the car and run it through all the gears. Hopefully you didn't remove the atf lines to the transmission oil cooler. Now you need to warm the ATF up to 40C. How you determine the ATF temp is gonna be the tricky part unless you have a PIWIS. Reopen the 17mm allen plug and it it runs out, you should be ok. If not, pump more ATF in until it runs out.

Fin.

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Here is a link to an Audi service procedure....I know, not the same car but the procedure is essentially the same. In the article they change the filter and pan gasket. When I did my Cayenne I used a laser thermometer to read the sump temperature. The temp is important as if the temp is too low you will overfill and too high you will under fill.....

http://www.audipages...nservicing.html

For the filler I used a garden sprayer attached to the copper fill tube shown in the article. I also put a shutoff valve in the line so that I could control the flow during the fill procedure.....

As Loren stated it is not a simple procedure but it can be done.....IMHO

Bob

Just one last note on this. I didn't touch the transmission cooler lines when I did my Cayenne.......

Edited by NelsonMX
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  • 1 month later...

I did just like the audi procedure below. worked out very well, with $10 in plumbing pieces from Home Depot, $6/qt Toyota T-IV ATF, gasket and filter (Thanks, sunset).

I used aquarium thermometer with remote temp sensor that i put in the pan during fill. I also measured the pan temp with infrared thermometer, and it's within 1c difference. Next time i'll just use the infrared thermo to measure pan temp. it will take 15 min or so from cold to 40c.

The fluid after 50kmi was red like blood, while new one is clear red like red wine. 6 magnets had thick coat of metallic crud. I would not leave that in for 160k miles.

one word of caution is not to overtighten the drain plug (the small one, not the 17mm allen). it's a 10mm aluminum torx screw, don't overtighten. Torque for pan and 17mm allen is available here, but could not find for the drain plug.

Here is a link to an Audi service procedure....I know, not the same car but the procedure is essentially the same. In the article they change the filter and pan gasket. When I did my Cayenne I used a laser thermometer to read the sump temperature. The temp is important as if the temp is too low you will overfill and too high you will under fill.....

http://www.audipages...nservicing.html

For the filler I used a garden sprayer attached to the copper fill tube shown in the article. I also put a shutoff valve in the line so that I could control the flow during the fill procedure.....

As Loren stated it is not a simple procedure but it can be done.....IMHO

Bob

Just one last note on this. I didn't touch the transmission cooler lines when I did my Cayenne.......

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  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...

If anyone is looking for this in the future, here are the torque specs (including specs if you are changing Valve Body):

Hydraulic Pressure Sensor 1 or 2 to Valve Body: 5 Nm

Multifunction Transmission Range Switch to Transmission Bolt: 6 Nm

Oil Filter to Valve Body Bolt: 10 Nm

Oil Pan to Cylinder Block Bolt (tighten in diagonal sequence and in stages): 8 Nm

Oil Pan Drain Plug: 20 Nm

Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor to Valve Body Bolt: 10 Nm

Transmission Output Speed Sensor to Transmission Bolt: 10 Nm

Valve Body to Transmission Bolt (these are stretch bolts and need to be replaced every time, only ~$15 at dealer): 8 Nm + 90 degrees

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  • 6 months later...

I just acquired an 06 Cayenne S TE with 80,000 miles. I am sure this has never been done and I would like to do it myself. I have read the DIY, etc.

This may seem like a dumb question, but with the fill plug and drain plug both being in the bottom of the pan, how do you get the new oil to stay in the pan when re-filling?

looks like it should be hot when draining and re-filling so that the thermostat is open and that oil gets changed as well as getting that volume filled?

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The fill plug is accessed from the bottom but it fills through a snorkel tube up into the pan. NelsonMX is correct that even though the Cayenne tranny is an Aisin and Audi uses ZF trannies the procedures are almost identical. Doing the pan and filter without pulling the ATF lines still gets 90% of the used oil, then just do it again in 40K. I haven't tried it with the Durametric but I'm sure you can get a temp reading, I used Vagcom and it worked great, and for anyone that wants to argue, the Touraeg & Audi Q7 use the exact same tranny and TCU so there is no problem with using Vagcom, at least on any module that is in common with the VAG cousin's. Next time I'll see if Durametric works.

As a caution, some tranny experts believe if you have a high mileage Auto box and the fluid hasn't been changed before then don't do it. There is a chance that the new fluid will break up some sludge and/or varnish in the box and possible cause it to plug some of the small orifices and ports in the valve body. Although Porsche does say swap the fluid at 160K I think, but by then if all goes wrong in a short time after doing it your not going to have luck proving that they are liable for problems.

Edited by hahnmgh63
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