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Cracked tail light housings


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i recently removed the real lights and rear bumper to install muffler bypass pipes, but when i was re-installing them the plastic housing (which the 10mm torx screw connects the tail lights to the body) cracked as soon as i tightened the torx screws.

the second torx screw was already broken from before so now the tail light is barely hanging on from the front.

i guess the plastic became so fragile due to the harsh sun and temperatures the car was exposed to over the years.

i know i'm trying to avoid the inevitable, but is there any way to fix/replace these plastic housings or do i have to splash out 500 bucks on a new rear tail light?!

thanks,

Nehme

Edited by Nehmaiz
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Well after checking lots of website online, decided to do the fix myself and not splash out on a pair of new tail lights.

Below are some pictures of how i fixed them, all it cost was a tupperware and silicon based glue to withstand the high temperatures here in the summer.

post-50282-0-97108900-1317803555_thumb.j

post-50282-0-64418800-1317803570_thumb.j

post-50282-0-92595500-1317803581_thumb.j

post-50282-0-37537100-1317803597_thumb.j

post-50282-0-54769200-1317803607_thumb.j

post-50282-0-12005900-1317803618_thumb.j

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  • 3 years later...

Sorry for the thread revival, but was looking for instructions on how to remove the rear tail lights on my car as some a$$ho!e decided he would either try and steal one of them, or sat on it and broke the two tabs that attach it to the car.  Luckily for me, found this post and will promptly do the same repair.  My car too is a C4S and it is the driver's side rear tail light that had the tabs broken by the aforementioned a$$ho!e who will not take claim for his/her action.

 

Any tips on which glue to use?  Another doubt.... After removing the two screws that are close to the engine lid, do I just pull on the assembly and it comes out, or is there a third screw holding it in place?  Mine seems to sit pretty well and tight even with the two tabs broken.

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  • 7 months later...

I finally got around fixing my tail light.  I believe a picture paints a thousand words, so here are a few of them that show what I did five months ago and still holding up.  May serve someone else in the future.

 

 

post-10928-0-21784000-1432224512_thumb.j

post-10928-0-11142200-1432224521_thumb.j

post-10928-0-76901500-1432224532_thumb.j

post-10928-0-09095000-1432224542_thumb.j

post-10928-0-41169300-1432224553_thumb.j

post-10928-0-92574900-1432224562_thumb.j

post-10928-0-55327700-1432224585_thumb.j

post-10928-0-57189400-1432224601_thumb.j

post-10928-0-82488800-1432224618_thumb.j

post-10928-0-48942400-1432224644_thumb.j

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Here's one thought when you re-install the tail light bodies, I think often that the mounting bracket under the tail light is not adjusted to the angle of the tail light body.  Also the tendancy is to over tighten the Torx screws.  Just tighten until the light body is stabilzed, it's not going anywhere...  Also the tail light lens will crack, nearly looks like a factory line, but I think that is another reason why you can torque the tail light body by having the mounting bracket out of alignment and over tightening...

 

No question that the tail light housing mounting tabs are under engineered...  I can't begin to know how many plastic connections that I've broken working on the car. Porsche should do better on this...

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

I am developing a permanent fix for this if anyone still needs it.  The fix will look stock, you will be able to keep you old lights no matter how badly they are cracked and the install is just a matter of removing the two mount screws, placing the mount bracket over the existing "mess" and replace the two screws. the price will be $29.95 free shipping for a set of two right and left, material will be ABS or Aluminum your choice.  Clint Hightower check out my youtube channel it is the same as my name here engineerboy100.

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