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Here are those part numbers.

I do have a complete set, which is the ECU, the kessy, the ignition lock, the steering lock still attached to the steering column and the key for a 2004 Cayenne S if someone is in need of getting going immediately. Email me at mrcbx@att.net if you need this, it will be cheaper than the dealer alternative, but please note this is for the V8 non-turbo only.

No one is suggesting that there are no other near equivalent fluids out there, but without a detailed factory spec sheet, it can be difficult to impossible for the average person to figure out which is which. Porsche is also well known for using unique lubricants in their manual gearboxes which are literally made to their specs. That does not mean there aren't other lubes that would work to some degree, but most find out the hard way that using aftermarket products lead to a litany of operational issues, and quite often damage as well. You might be surprised how many times we get cars in that had been switched to other products either by their owners or another shop, and problems resulted in the car coming to us because we use only the factory lubes. Several years ago I approached one of the known suppliers of these lubricants and was told outright that what they make for Porsche is unique to Porsche, and cannot be sold to anyone else because of exclusive marketing agreements between them and Porsche. As the result, we still buy ours from Porsche, albeit in drums, which are plainly marked as made by one of two companies. Based upon what I have been told by someone from the Porsche factory, they are (or were) ZF. As Porsche often uses more than one supplier, they may also some that come from other suppliers; but I was told ZF.

JFP I don't disagree with anything you said and no doubt damage can be done by using the wrong fluids or lubricants in any mechanical device, but once one understand the properties of the fluid(s) in question and they match or exceed the OE specs and performance there is no shame in using something other than OE. I am not sure what Porsche's current recommendation is but for quite a while they spec'd Mobil 1 0W-40 for all air-cooled 911s and you don't have to search very hard to find a large number of experts that will tell you there are superior engine oils for these air-cooled engines. Brake fluid is another example - why not use something like Motul 600, Castrol SRF or Endless RF650 (Porsche Cup car spec!) rather than generic not-made-by-Porsche Porsche-lebeled DOT 4? These special fluids might be more hygroscopic than the OE fluid, requiring more frequent changes, but one shouldn't be chastised for using any of these fluids in a Porsche because they certainly aren't inferior. I will continue searching until I find the OE manufacturer of the ATF that Porsche sticks their label on, then I will compare the specs to the other available options to determine what to use in my 958TT. If I find a fluid that I like better than the Porsche dealer fluid and it costs more than the Porsche fluid I will gladly buy it. Since you know these rigs well can you please confirm if the transmission is made by Aisin or ZF? Regards

Our experience is exactly opposite; we see vehicles after someone has used the wrong fluids and they have either crapped out after very few miles, or were never the correct spec in the first place, often resulting in catastrophic damage. These gearboxes are ridiculously expensive just to buy either new or used, much less the labor costs to pull and replace. Porsche does not sell parts for them, only complete gearboxes, and very few shops have the tooling or expertise to work on them. In my world, using another lubricant without fully understanding its specs is running a very large risk on something that can bite you big time directly in your wallet.

Me? Where did I ask about "cheap unknown spec lubricants"? It is easy to find the exact specs for both of these fluids and anyone that hasn't heard of Febi Bilstein or Fuchs must have limited knowledge of European fluid suppliers. Can we all agree that Porsche doesn't produce ATF fluids in-house for the transmissions that they outsource from another vendor (Aisin or ZF....TBD) ? With that in mind, putting some effort into locating the original supplier/manufactuer of the fluid that Porsche specs for this 8-speed is hardly a foolish exercise, especially since we are talking about 8L - 9L of fluid at a $30 - $40 per L saving. Sounds like a sensible exercise to me. In my experience it usually possible to find a non-OE fluid (engine/trans/diff/brake) that is superior in quality to OE fluid (better base stock, less shear, higher VI, etc) for the same or less money. Car and Driver: "As with all the other gasoline engines, power is transmitted via a completely new eight-speed automatic transmission sourced from Aisin that shifts quickly and very smoothly." Road & Track: "The Aisin 8-speed Tiptronic automatic transmission eliminates the need for a low-range transfer case within the Cayenne's new lighter (surprise!), on-demand all-wheel-drive system, while Porsche claims faster (albeit imperceptible) shift speeds over 8-speed on-road-only gearbox." Maybe both sources are wrong?

Yes, the Tip controller can not switch the valve if it is off (fuse removed) - nor can the vacuum valve switch with the engine off.

So, I'm going to update this thread as I go along in case anyone else needs this info going forward. Although there are a lot of "radio" threads out there it appears that the vast majority of Cayenne buyers got the Bose sound package and thus I could not find conclusive information so here goes: My '05 Cayenne base does not have the bose sound upgrade package and does not have an amp, just a fiber optic connected CD changer. (translation: the MOST system in my Cayenne is only utilized for the CD changer) Basics: if the speakers don't have the Bose logo you probably don't have bose. The CD changer is located in the rear right cargo behind pull off panel. My understanding is a non-bose amp would be located above the CD changer, that space can be viewed with a flashlight at the correct angle. Original radio is the CDR-23 single din. The back of the radio has three plugs (the top with three wires is the steering controls, the middle with 8 wires are the speakers, the bottom with three wires is the power/antenna). In addition there is the antenna connection on the far left and a pair of FIBER OPTIC cables. In this setup, the Fiber Optics cables run directly to the CD changer and that appears to be it. I unplugged the fiber optic behind the radio and EVERYTHING works fine (radio, steering controls, dash still shows the station/song). The CD changer obviously does not work but the CD slot on the head unit does work. With 8 speaker wires in the back of the radio, it is evident these are running straight to the speakers, confirmed by the fact that no amp was found. Also, called Becker and they confirmed that some becker units are not programmed to be used with an amp and most cars with an amp use a smaller yellow plug in the middle slot instead of the 8 speaker wires. So for the Radio swap all I need is a new head unit and wiring harness, essentially it is now plug and play (thank you previous owner for only getting the basic radio option). After some back and forth with a few car stereo and online sellers, the correct harness appears to be the Connects2 model CTSPO001 and is about a US$100 part. This does include steering wheel controls which would negate the need to buy the US$50 ASWC-1 part. (so essentially 50 for the basic harness and 50 for the steering controls) The fiber optic plug will just be taped off behind the unit since I have no need for the CD changer (definitely not spending 500 for a fiber connection to tie it in), they also sell a fiber optic loop connection for 10-25 so I might do that just in case its better to have the fiber loop closed. Other parts that are easily identified elsewhere: dash trim by Metra 95-9600, another one by Connects2 CT23PO01. Antenna is 40-EU10 but it appears there are a couple almost identical to choose but know once hooked up. Since the speaker wires are behind the head unit it would be easy to setup an amp in the front of the vehicle or possibly under the hood since any wires (power/speakers) wouldn't have to be routed all the way to the back of the vehicle. Parts are all on order, will update when everything is connected.

Yeah your bank 1 cat is totally shot. Check out the graph for bank 2. See how the red line (indicating o2 sensor after cat) is nice and flat. This mean your cat is working and oxidizing the exhaust gasses. Notice how the graph for bank 1 the lines are almost the same. This means the o2 sensor in front of the cat and behind the cat are reading almost the exact same thing. AKA... your cat isnt doing jack ****.