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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Good advice! Judging from your responce, these failures aren't that common, right? Is there a documentation on how to remove the IP? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...post&p=9563 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...post&p=2434
  2. Stock screws are M6 x 12 mm - so you will want much longer ones.
  3. If you don't feel comfortable removing the cluster and checking the connections then find a good Porsche indie shop. I'd hate to see some dealer replace a $2000 plus cluster for a loose connection.
  4. If you have swapped the relays and you are sure the fuse is good (measured conductivity with a meter?). Then it is either the ballast resister or the motor. I guess you could bypass the resister to test the the motor.
  5. If you had more electrical anomalies I would suspect the ignition switch. But I would also remove the cluster and make sure all the connectors are plugged in tight. Where are you located?
  6. :welcome: Unplug your MAF - it does almost nothing at idle and really only comes into play at higher RPMs. Then tell us how it runs.
  7. Hmm... I would say: - a good set of metric sockets, and combination wrenches - a set of common torx drivers and metric allen wrenches - a low cost torque wrench that is used just for wheels - a mid to upper range torque wrench for engine and suspension use - a good low profile jack - a minimum of two jack stands That should be a good start (IMHO).
  8. For a Porsche part - no way. Don't confuse Porsche part prices with Bosch part prices. Dealers are only allowed to Porsche replacement parts.
  9. Did you try pushing the volume button? that turns mute on and off. For your code try 0968 or 0966
  10. Hmm... did they check to see if a connector came loose?
  11. Have you tried Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost)?
  12. RMS problems were rampant until Porsche came out with a new version seal toward the end of 1996, if I recall the date correctly. Prior to then, it wasn't unusual to have seals fail in six months. Since then, there appear to far fewer problems. I would not be bothered by the RMS replacements, but that is just my opinion. The first 996 production run wasn't until 1998 - so I think you remember the date wrong. The new seal did not come out until July 2005 (with the introduction of 987 and 997).
  13. It is not hard to remove and replace - but someone will need to paint the new bumper first.
  14. Right fuse panel - fuse 11.
  15. Or... he could download here on this site... CDR-23 Owners Manual
  16. Hmm... time to look for a power drain. Poor grounds? etc.
  17. Some dealers here in the US will sell you the spare from a 996 series C4. With the tool (jack, lug wrench, etc.) kit it will fit in your front trunk. As I recall you will lose roughly half of your trunk space.
  18. Try 5048 or 5046
  19. Lost Radio Code - FAQ -- PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  20. Try 7255 or 7253
  21. The bumpers are the same - before they are cut and installed. Yes, you will need to remove the bumperette hardware first.
  22. :welcome: Porsche has published an 8 page installation TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for installing the CDC-4. It is available here to view online to our Contributing Members (as are all TSBs) -- or you can try to get your dealer to give you a copy.
  23. Just buy a new bumper and don't cut the holes for the bumperettes. Most RoW cars do not have bumperettes.
  24. Nothing special - you do have an extra radiator, but it will bleed with the rest of the system.
  25. Try 0735 or 0733
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