Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
  • Posts

    37,776
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    626

Everything posted by Loren

  1. Wow! a lot of codes. A number of no voltage faults. Is the control box wet? or are the connecting cables loose? or are the cables under the seat damaged?
  2. "Detaching steering return line In order to detach the line from the supply tank, push the red unlocking ring forward (arrows) and simultaneously pull out the line. Use two plastic spatulas to press the unlocking ring." "Detaching steering return line from the supply tank with (SnapOn No. A177A) tool The line can also be detached using a commercially available tool. Insert tool between line and the red unlocking ring and unlock. Pull line to the rear and simultaneously press the tool against the red ring. Carefully protect the line against dirt and scratches with a cap."
  3. The Porsche part is a part of the X51 kit. Alone it may help some but the X51 get another oil pickup, dual-chamber suction pump, and separate routing of the oil return lines. But then an X51 kit is about $10,000 plus installation cost.
  4. I don't think you are going to know if it is the IMS or RMS (or both) without removing the transmission and flywheel.
  5. The pump is in the left wheel arch. You will need to partially remove the wheel well liner to get to the pump/hoses. Could be a hose came off the pump or is broken there.
  6. In My Humble Opinion :)
  7. I drove my car with the MAF disconnected for two days once. It just lacked upper end power.
  8. Only the C4 has slightly different ducts (beginning in MY04). The C2 and Boxster are the same.
  9. On the 996 series the GT3 ducts are smaller than the GT3RS. On the 997 series the GT3 and GT3RS get the same ducts (at this time). On the 996 GT3 Mk1 (RoW version) the ducts were the same as the production Carrera's. With the MY04 GT3 (Mk2) the GT3 got the same ducts the (then ) current Cup Cars were using. When the GT3RS (RoW version) was introduced the ducts got even larger. The Cup Cars for that model year were then even larger. I don't have a service book for the 997 GT3 Cup Car. Might be good to get a set of spares - the larger ones will scrape and I've heard of someone knocking one off too.
  10. Paul, Your car should have the ducts - all 996 and 997's do. If you want to put the GT3RS ones on then they look like the pic above. Your stock ducts look the same except smaller.
  11. Get the VIN and then process it through Scouser's VIN Decoder here.
  12. Nice pics! Is it just me or are the rear spoilers getting taller and taller ever year? Looks like it is almost even with the roof line now. Reminds me of the 70's Chaparral's...
  13. "in the Maintenance Book" is one place. Sometimes it is required on your vehicle registration. Otherwise you will need to tell us the exact model year, body style, etc. of your car. Oh, and whether it is a US/Canada car or RoW.
  14. My honest opinion... lose the 19" wheels. IMHO with the PSS9's you want a little more sidewall rubber (and fewer bent wheels).
  15. If you mean this type of pedals? You will need to drill the stock pedals to attach the new pedals. Instructions and templates are usually included.
  16. No, some people leave the stock ones on so they can drive on the street.
  17. 2 to 4 times larger than the standard brake ducts.
  18. Have a look at the later 996 TSB for the PSE w/switch. The wiring is described there.
  19. Yes, it is switched 12 volts.
  20. Yes, that is the GT3 RS/ClubSport kill switch instructions I sent you via PM.
  21. The 987 and 997 are handled completely differently and can be disabled with a PIWIS tester. The 986 and 996 series can not be disabled with the Porsche tester.
  22. Ok, the Cup Car part require you to cut a hole in the front hood and basically use a Cup Car wiring harness throughout. Probably not a good solution for a non-dedicated track car. The GT3 RS parts are listed in PET but not shown in any images. Look in this list after item 37. gt3_kill_switch_parts.pdf I can PM you the install instructions if you want.
  23. Do you mean the Cup Car parts?
  24. Most common are the center console latch and the front hood microswitch. A PST2 or PIWIS will certainly tell you and I think the Durametrtic Software will tell you also.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.